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Maternal antibodies are those antibodies that are transferred to the puppy or kitten when they receive colostrum milk from their dam only in the first 36 hours of life. After that, even though the breast milk contains many antibodies as well as wholesome nutrients, these antibodies can no longer cross the neonatal intestinal mucosal lining. The colostrum–derived antibodies gradually wane from birth over the three months and most are gone by the age of 14-16 weeks. Until then, what remains in their body is called “residual maternal antibodies”, which are present in decreasing amounts to help protect the pup or kitten against foreign substances and infectious diseases. Timing is Critical Vaccinating these youngsters at too young of an age when they have plenty of residual maternal immunity just causes the vaccine antigen(s) to be partially neutralized so that full immunization is not achieved. Thus, the effect of vaccination is incomplete and the puppy or kitten is still at risk of getting one or more of these diseases until the vaccine series is completed once the maternal antibodies have disappeared. Conversely, the period of highest vulnerability to infectious diseases is between 10-14 weeks of age. So, puppies need at least one dose of the multivalent vaccine between 9 weeks and before 12 weeks of age, even though it will only partially immunize them. For kittens, they need one dose between 8-9 weeks of age. Please review my canine and feline vaccination protocols for further information. The “One and Done” Vaccination Protocol Premise It has been postulated to give puppies or kittens just one dose of multivalent “combo” vaccine at 16 weeks of age, because their maternal immunity will have disappeared and not interfere with complete immunization. It is not safe to leave them unprotected for that long. Maternal immunity will have waned to essentially zero and these puppies will be totally vulnerable to viral diseases. When to Vaccinate Puppies/ Which Vaccines are Needed/ What about Socialization? • Puppies should receive MLV Core vaccines against distemper and parvovirus at 9-10 and 14-15 weeks of age. A final vaccination against parvovirus should be administer at 18 weeks. • Rabies vaccines are given as required by law, preferably separately from other vaccines by 3-4 weeks, and at 20-24 weeks of age. • Other vaccines are optional, and depend upon circumstances and disease risk in the area. • Three or more days after the last round of puppy vaccines, they can be out and about to be socialized. In the interim period, between 10-14 weeks of age, socialization can take place in the back yard or at puppy training classes with known friends and healthy dogs. • Until fully vaccinated, puppies should not walk on unfamiliar or public grounds; they can be carried about, when needed to travel. • If titer testing is desired, instead of giving another vaccine after 12 weeks of age, wait until at least 16 weeks of age to avoid measuring residual maternal immunity. W. Jean Dodds, DVM Hemopet / NutriScan 11561 Salinaz Avenue Garden Grove, CA 92843

AT WHAT AGE DO GERMAN SHEPHERDS EARS STAND?

Puppies ears can stand up anywhere from 8 weeks to 8 months. And generally, they should be standing up by the time your puppy has finished teething.

WHY DO GERMAN SHEPHERDS EARS GO UP AND DOWN?

It’s common for a pup’s ears to perk up and then droop again within a few weeks.  So, don’t let this alarm you. This is a sign that the cartilage and muscles are developing normally.

And this can happen several times during teething when the adult teeth are pushing through.

In my experience, if the ears perk up once and then droop again, they will come back up.  So in this case just relax and wait for your pup to finish teething.

Some uneducated sources say this has to do with their bodies using calcium for bone and teeth development.

This is incorrect information because, in fact, their ears are cartilage and not bone, so calcium is not a factor in upright ears – in fact, calcium supplementation can cause serious health issues.

In reality, this up and down see-saw of your puppy’s ears has to do with the development of the Temporalis Muscle.

WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP MY PUPPIES EARS STAND

To help your puppies ears stand I feed all my puppies a Nuvet supplement with glucosamine in it that supports cartilage repair and development, NuJoint. It also supports your puppies bone and muscle development so its a good all around supplement to feed your puppy to make sure they grow properly. I also feed Nuvet plus Vitamin supplement and it contains Vitamin C that also supports proper Cartilage development.

http://www.nuvet.com/511881

Another good thing you can do for your puppies is give them good chew toys like Kong toys and/or good meaty bones like Turkey necks. Chewing helps strengthen their Jaw, Head and Neck muscles, most importantly the Temporalis muscle that is the muscle responsible for helping the ears go erect.

In very few cases your puppies ears will not stand erect. This can be caused by injury to the ear cartilage or in some cases their are certain bloodlines that carry soft ears.

If this happens you may need to support the ears to help them stand. You should wait until 8 months of age to do this as intervening too soon can cause permanent damage to the ears.

To tape the ears:

Use a foam form of the ears that you will glue inside of the ear to hold it erect. You can purchase these online or cut your own.

First, brush the skin adhesive onto the outside of the ear form.  Coat the whole thing and let it fully dry, for at least 10 minutes.  This helps to get a good bond with your dog’s ear when you apply a second coat.

Then Put a cotton ball where the ear canal starts to prevent any of the adhesives from dripping in.  Most pup will tolerate it for a little while.  If it’s a problem, skip it but just be careful.

Now give the ear form a second coat of skin adhesive.  Lay it flat on something like a paper plate to keep the adhesive from dripping.

Wait 20 seconds. Now, carefully place the form into the ear.  Make sure it’s far enough down to the base, but not into the ear canal.  The ear should stand up without flopping at the base

The ear should be smooth on the outside.  So, make sure there are no folds or wrinkles in the ear.  This is important! Hold in place for at least 45 seconds.

When you’re done, reward your German Shepherd with a delicious treat!

After all is said and done, have a fun play session to get your pup’s attention off the ear forms.

This should stay in for about a week. If it starts to come off before then do not try to tack it back on, let it fully fall out on its own. If your puppies ears stand erect when the mold falls out then leave it alone. If it starts to droop again you can start the process all over again until the ears stand erect.

Why I recommend NuVet Plus – As a quality breeder, my highest priority is the health of the dogs I breed. Part of that responsibility includes doing everything possible to assure their wellbeing after they go to a new home. While all quality dog foods will provide everything needed to sustain life, virtually all of them are cooked during the manufacturing process. The heat from cooking causes much of the nutrients to be lost during the process. NuVet Plus is cold processed allowing all of the benefits of its rich nutrients to be retained, giving your new puppy an extra layer of protection, especially during the most critical first year of life. Additionally, when puppies nurse, they rely on their mother’s colostrum (highly nutritious milk produced right after birth) for the antibodies they need to fight foreign substances. However, the maternal antibodies’ effectiveness declines as the puppy’s immune system begins to mature. By 8 weeks, your puppy’s immune system is at a vulnerable point and will soon be challenged on multiple fronts. When a puppy is moved away from its mother and siblings to live with its new family, the immune system is weakened by the stress of adoption and exposure to bacteria and viruses in its new home. These are pathogens for which the puppy’s body has not yet developed antibodies, and it is widely recognized that the immune system is less effective in times of stress. So starting NuVet Plus now is important to helping your puppy grow into a healthy adult. The vaccine series is also started during this time period. Vaccines are most effective if the immune system can respond properly. If the immune system is distracted by combating free radicals and it does not receive the nutrients required to keep it strong during times of stress, the health of the puppy is at risk. The best way to stay healthy during this critical time is to provide the nutritional support required for proper immune system function. About NuVet Plus – NuVet Plus is a synergistic combination of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals known to boost immune system function. All of NuVet Labs’ ingredients are sourced in the United States, manufactured in a human-grade U.S. FDA registered pharmaceutical laboratory, and cold processed to maximize the potency of the nutrients. NuVet Labs has been in business since 1997 and has never had a product recall. By including NuVet Plus® into your puppy’s daily diet, you can be confident that you are providing the nutrients required for optimal immune system performance. Additional information may be found on the NuVet Labs website http://www.nuvet.com/511881

Fruits are perfectly safe for dogs to eat, as long as they’re lower in sugar. Some of the healthiest choices include berries. because they’re also prebiotic. But not all fruits are good for dogs. Here are some of the healthiest fruits you can choose for you dog: Apples Apples are good for dogs. They contain vitamin A and C, are full of antioxidants like quercetin, which help relieve allergies and improve gut health. Apple skins are especially nutritious so be sure to keep it on. You can remove the apple core if you want, but this isn’t necessary. While apple seeds do contain cyanide, the amount is so minuscule it’s not really a cause for concern. Bananas Bananas are full of vitamins and minerals that can help strengthen your dog’s muscles, bones and immune system. They can also improve brain function and digestive health. But bananas are high in sugar and starch, which feed the bad bacteria and yeast in your dog’s gut … so don’t over do it. If you do feed your dog bananas, make sure you remove the peel or cut it up into small pieces. Banana peels aren’t toxic for dogs but they can cause bowel obstructions. Berries Most dogs love berries because they taste delicious. But these fruits are also packed full of antioxidants and vitamins that help keep your dog healthy. Let’s look at some of the most popular berries that dogs can eat … Blueberries Blueberries have a special nutrient that can cross the blood-brain barrier to help protect your dog’s brain function. They also pack more antioxidants than any other food. In fact, studies show that animals who eat blueberries are healthier, have less inflammation and they do better at memory and brain work. Cranberries Cranberries are safe for dogs and can be helpful for UTIs but … that isn’t all they’re good for. Cranberries also fight cancer, balance the gut and help manage inflammatory diseases. They can even protect your dog’s teeth. Raspberries Raspberries are full of nutrients like vitamin A, B1, B2, B3, C and E. So they aren’t only delicious, they’re nutritious. Raspberries are also full of antioxidants, which means they’re able to reduce inflammation and boost your dog’s immune system. Strawberries Strawberries contain lots of fiber and vitamin C, as well as enzymes that help keep your dog’s teeth clean. Cantaloupe Cantaloupes are a fruit your dog can eat and they’re a great way to keep your dog hydrated on a warm day. They have high water content and are a good source of fiber and vitamins your dog needs. If you decide to give your dog some cantaloupe, feed it without the rind. The rinds can be choking hazards or cause bowel obstructions. Cucumbers Cucumbers are a low-calorie snack that’s great for overweight dogs. They’re also full of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory polyphenols that can prevent cancer. And they can help keep your dog hydrated on a warm day. If you give your dog cucumber, be sure to keep the peel on – it contains the most nutrients. Oranges And Other Citrus Fruit Dogs can eat citrus fruits like oranges, tangerines, mandarins and clementines. These fruits are high in vitamin C, which boosts the immune system and helps with everyday functions. Most dogs produce their own vitamin C but as your dog ages, or if he’s stressed, a dietary boost may be necessary. Citrus fruit also contains anti-inflammatory flavanones that may help with weight management. Lemons, limes, and grapefruits have the same benefits and are safe for dogs. But don’t feel surprised if your dog won’t eat citrus fruit … most dogs find the flavor off-putting. You’ll also want to remove the peel to prevent obstructions. Pears Pears are a tasty treat for your dog and high in copper, fiber and antioxidants. This makes them a great choice to improve digestive health, fight cancer and reduce inflammation. Like apples, pear seeds contain cyanide, though the amount is very low. If you want, you can core the pear before you give it to your dog but it isn’t necessary. Pineapple Pineapple is full of vitamin C, B vitamins, and minerals that help with your dog’s health. You’ll want to remove the skin and crown before you feed your dog pineapple. You’ll also want to core the pineapple or cut it up into very small pieces to avoid an obstruction. Stone Fruits Stone fruits are fruits that have a single pit or seed in the center. This includes cherries, peaches, mangos, plums, nectarines and dates. While the flesh of fruits I’ve listed are safe for your dog to eat, you’ll want to remove the pits first. The pits contain cyanide that can stop your dog’s blood cells from getting enough oxygen. The pits can also cause bowel obstructions. If your dog accidentally eats a stone fruit whole, watch for signs of bowel obstruction or, if he ate a lot, cyanide poisoning. Tomatoes Like all nightshade vegetables, tomatoes contain solanine. Generally, ripe tomatoes are safe for your dog to eat because the solanine levels are low. And they’re full of healthy antioxidants and fiber. But you should feed them in moderation and shouldn’t give tomatoes to dogs with inflammatory diseases. That’s because solanine can aggravate inflammation. Green tomatoes, stems and leaves contain high levels of solanine and can be harmful to your dog. Be sure tomatoes are ripe and remove the stems and leaves before you feed them to your dog. You shouldn’t share tomato sauce and other tomato-based products. They might contain ingredients (like onions) that can be harmful to your dog. Watermelon Watermelons are a fruit your dog can eat. They contain vitamin A and C, plus they’re very refreshing. Watermelon also has an important antioxidant called lycopene. Watermelon is safe for dogs but … don’t give him the rind or seeds. They’re a choking hazard and can cause bowel obstructions.

Sex Hormones Directly Affect the Health and Wellness of Dogs Spay and neuter programs have certainly helped reduce pet overpopulation problems and diseases associated with the sex organs, such as ovarian and testicular cancers, pyometra and some prostate disorders. However, research indicates that the downside to removing the gonads and associated sex hormones is that it can have a significant negative impact on the health and welfare of dogs. According to the Parsemus Foundation, via Phys.org: “Obesity, urinary incontinence, various cancers, immune-mediated diseases, musculoskeletal disorders, and cognitive and behavior problems are more common in spayed and neutered dogs. This is likely because natural hormone feedback mechanisms become unregulated in neutered dogs. For example, without sex hormones signaling the pituitary gland and hypothalamus in the brain, levels of luteinizing hormone (LH) continue to increase. Emerging research indicates that the high levels of unopposed luteinizing hormone likely influence the development of diverse health disorders. The relationships between sex hormones, health and wellness are not simple and may be influenced by many factors, including the dog’s sex, breed, age, and environment Desexing: Sterilization on Steroids? It’s important to recognize the difference between sterilization and desexing. Whereas the former procedure eliminates a dog’s ability to procreate, desexing sterilizes but also eliminates the dog’s ability to produce sex hormones for the remainder of his or her life. Sterilization without gonad removal (ovary-sparing spays aka hysterectomies for females, vasectomies for males) is an alternative, but difficult to obtain for many pet parents because veterinary schools only train students to perform full spays and neuters. If you have an intact dog and prefer sterilization to castration, you can find a list of veterinary providers who’ve received training in alternative procedures at the Parsemus Foundation. It’s also important to note that while post-desexing health issues tend to be diagnosed most often in large breed dogs, it doesn’t mean that depriving smaller dogs of a lifetime of important hormones isn’t also potentially problematic. Toby’s Story Late last year, a landmark case study was published in Topics in Companion Animal Medicine detailing the first report of hormone restoration therapy in a castrated dog.2 Toby, a male mixed breed, was neutered at seven months of age as a condition of adoption from a county animal shelter. The pup arrived in his new home as an active, healthy, sociable little fellow, but his health went rapidly downhill over the next few months. When he turned a year old, Toby’s owners took him to a veterinarian because he had developed multiple health and psychological issues that impacted his quality of life, including reduced mobility, limping, rapid weight gain, and fear of unfamiliar people. From age one to age four, Toby was treated with several pharmaceuticals, including pain medications, joint supplements, thyroid hormones, and antidepressants, along with significant dietary restrictions. His limping was reduced on this protocol, but his mobility remained poor. His weight stabilized on a strict diet, but his fear and anxiety responses to strangers only worsened. By the time he was four, Toby’s anxiety was so pronounced that his owners could no longer take him outside the house, and his inability to run and jump like a normal dog was exacerbating his weight problem. When his owners added a second, younger dog to the family, Toby’s health challenges became even more obvious when he couldn’t run and play with his new housemate. Hormone Restoration Restores Toby’s Quality of Life Fortunately for Toby, his owners (one of whom, Linda Brent, is the lead author of the case study) were aware that lack of normal hormone levels after neutering can impact a dog’s health and were concerned that his problems were a result of his desexing, so they contacted Dr. Michelle Kutzler, a veterinary theriogenologist at Oregon State University (and a study co-author). Castrated male dogs have very low testosterone levels and can have abnormally high levels of luteinizing hormone (LH). Toby’s LH level was three times higher than normal for a neutered dog. Kutzler and Toby’s owners decided to try hormone restoration therapy to return the dog’s hormones to a normal level, and he was started on weekly subcutaneous (under the skin) administration of testosterone, which he readily accepted with positive reinforcement training. Within three months, Toby had increased muscle mass, reduced limping, improved mobility, and a moderate decrease in fear and anxiety. Since his LH level was still too high, he received an implant of a gonadotropin-releasing hormone agonist. That additional step did the trick, and both his testosterone and LH levels were brought into normal range. His health improvements continued, including reduced appetite and manageable fear and anxiety behaviors. Today, Toby goes for walks in public parks and easily runs, jumps, and keeps up with his four-legged housemate. There are no known side effects of the hormone restoration therapy he received, and he remains on the treatment with regular monitoring of bloodwork, testosterone and LH levels, and prostate exams. “The improvement in Toby’s health and behavior has been amazing,” says Brent. “After years of trying traditional medical treatments with little effect, returning his hormones to normal levels has given him a chance for a happy and healthy life.” More Research Is Needed While Toby’s case study shows that hormone restoration may improve the health of symptomatic neutered dogs, there is much more work to be done to uncover optimal therapeutic methods and potential risks. “This case report provides evidence to support lowering LH concentrations with GnRH downregulation and gonadal hormone supplementation in spayed and neutered dogs displaying clinical signs of the long-term adverse health effects of gonad removal,” says Kutler. “Controlled randomized clinical trials are needed.” While data from an individual animal cannot be generalized to other dogs, the authors hope that it encourages dialog and further research on the topic of hormone therapy for the millions of spayed and neutered dogs who are now suffering from ailments that don’t respond to traditional medical treatment. Dogosterone™ Therapy Late last year, I interviewed veterinarian Dr. David Bieber, owner of the Sheridan West Animal Clinic in Cooper City, FL, who has developed a one-of-a-kind hormone replacement program called Dogosterone™ Therapy. The treatment is designed for desexed dogs and replaces the testosterone their testicles or ovaries would have provided naturally had they been left intact. Dr. Bieber has seen improvement in a variety of conditions once testosterone replacement therapy is initiated, including hip dysplasia and arthritis. Dr. Bieber is now offering online hormone replacement therapy certification through his Dogosterone website https://www.dogosterone.com/ for veterinarians who would like to offer testosterone replacement therapy to their patients in a safe and effective manner. Analysis by Dr. Karen Shaw Becker

The Toxic Contaminants Hiding in Your Pet’s Food

According to PetfoodIndustry.com, unwanted toxins inevitably make their way into dog, cat, and other pet foods, and “some level of contamination is unavoidable.” The list of “ingredients and substances” the ultraprocessed pet food industry tries to avoid includes “arsenic, mercury, PCB, BPA, dioxin and aflatoxin.”1 Among the many reasons to seriously consider switching from ultraprocessed diets to fresh food for furry family members, unwanted toxins are high up the list. Let’s take a closer look at each of these inevitable and “unavoidable” contaminants. 6 Inevitable, ‘Unavoidable’ Pet Food Contaminants 1.Arsenic — Arsenic is a heavy metal mineral. Inorganic arsenic is often found in products like herbicides, insecticides, wood preservatives, and some types of insulation. Organic arsenic is used in certain drugs to treat or prevent blood parasites, including heartworm. According to Aldrich, “The measured presence of arsenic in pet foods does not equate to toxicity for this naturally occurring earth element.” This may be true, but I doubt pet parents expect or want even a “nontoxic” amount of arsenic in their dog’s or cat’s food, as bioaccumulation can do significant damage over time. In some cases of poisoning in pets, an animal inadvertently ingests a product containing arsenic that is lying around. However more commonly, sublethal doses are consistently consumed, and toxicity occurs slowly, over a long period of time (such as when a dog or cat eats grass that is regularly treated with herbicides containing arsenic). Ongoing low dose arsenic exposure can also occur in some parts of the world via the water supply, which is why filtering your entire family’s water is so important, especially in some areas. The main source of arsenic exposure is from conventionally raised (non-organic), factory farmed chickens. Arsenic is added to commercial chicken feed to inhibit mold and fungi in many countries, and it’s passed up the food chain. Arsenic that dissolves in water is quickly absorbed after your pet swallows it. Most of the arsenic that is ingested binds to red blood cells, poisons the cells’ mitochondria and is distributed to body tissues, with the highest levels accumulating in the liver, kidneys, heart, and lungs. In cases of long-term exposure, arsenic accumulates in the skin, nails, sweat glands, and fur. It’s typically the gastrointestinal (GI) tract, liver, kidneys, lungs, blood vessels, and skin that are most vulnerable to arsenic damage. Along with its ability to cause cancer and death, arsenic also interferes with hormones, specifically glucocorticoid system hormones. Iodine and selenium-rich foods, including sea vegetables and Brazil nuts, as well as sulfur-rich foods (e.g., fresh garlic) are helpful in removing arsenic trace residues from the body. If I have patients with elevated arsenic levels, I add alpha lipoic acid and n-acetyl cysteine (NAC) to their detox program. 2.Mercury — According to Aldrich, “Concern for mercury in pet food affects only certain cat and dog food products,” and when it does show up, pet owners can rest assured it wasn’t deliberately put there. Not much reassurance in that statement, is there? And because no quality control testing is required, pet lovers never know what toxins their pets are inadvertently ingesting. Mercury is a naturally occurring substance, but it’s toxic, nonetheless. It’s released into the air and the oceans primarily though burning coal. Seafood is the most common route of exposure for both people and pets. Studies have revealed high levels of mercury in both dog and cat food. To limit your pet’s exposure to mercury, my advice is to be very choosy about the fish you feed, and I certainly don’t recommend feeding an exclusive diet of fish protein to dogs or cats (unless you’re making your pet’s food and choosing low-contaminant seafood). However, fish are a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential to your pet’s well-being. If you supplement with fish, I suggest using sardines packed in water. Sardines don’t live long enough to store toxins in their bodies, and they’re a terrific source of omega-3s. Feeding wild caught salmon, mussels, or rainbow trout in rotation with other proteins is also an excellent way to get those omega-3s into your dog or cat with minimal contaminant risks. If you choose not to feed any fish, I recommend you supplement your pet’s diet with krill oil or another omega-3 fatty acid that’s been third-party validated as contaminant-free and sustainably sourced. It’s also important not to cook your pet’s food in nonstick pans. Use cast iron or stainless instead. Chlorella and cilantro are my favorite foods to use for mercury detoxification.2 3.PCBs (Polychlorinated Biphenyl) — Fish-flavored pet food has also been found to contain PCBs. Dr. Jean Hofve of Little Big Cat explains how this occurs: “New research suggests that cats are especially sensitive to PBDEs (which, among other things, are used as fire retardants in carpeting and furniture), chemicals found at higher levels in both canned and dry cat foods than dog foods; and more in dry than canned cat foods. Fish-based foods are even worse, because marine organisms produce PDBEs naturally and can bioaccumulate up the food chain to high levels in fish; this compounds the exposure cats get from fabrics and dust. Predatory fish at the top of the food chain, such as tuna and salmon, may contain very elevated levels of heavy metals (including mercury) as well as PCBs, pesticides, and other toxins. Tilefish (listed on pet food labels as ‘ocean whitefish’) are among the worst contaminated, along with king mackerel, shark, and swordfish. These fish are so toxic that the FDA advises women of child-bearing age and children to avoid them entirely; and recommends only 1 serving of albacore tuna per week due to its high mercury levels (yellow or ‘light’ tuna is far safer for us, but still inappropriate for cats). If these fish are dangerous to children, cats are at even higher risk! PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls) in particular are toxic industrial chemicals that were banned in the U.S. in 1979. However, they are used elsewhere in the world; and because they are stable in the environment, they are still a concern in ocean waters. Recent research found high levels of PCBs in dry and canned pet foods. Scientists also found that cats retain PCB metabolites in their blood longer than dogs.”3 Clearing persistent, fat-soluble toxins like PCBs from the body occurs via several detox mechanisms including the bowel, so increasing the amount of fiber in the diet helps (add more ground, fibrous veggies to your pet’s bowl). Chlorophyll-containing foods (or chlorophyll supplementation) is also beneficial, as are green tea polyphenols (I use decaf, organic green tea as a food topper).4 4.BPA (Bisphenol A) — Bisphenol A is an industrial chemical found in a wide range of household products that affect everyone in the home, including hard plastic water and baby bottles, and plastic pet food and water bowls. It’s also found in the epoxy resins used as coatings inside food and drink cans, including pet food containers. BPA has the ability to imitate the body’s hormones, especially estrogen, in ways that are damaging to the health of both humans and animals. For most animals, including humans, exposure to BPA occurs primarily through diet. A 2017 study conducted by researchers at the University of Missouri concluded that even a short-term (two week) feeding of canned dog food results in a significant increase (three-fold) of BPA in dogs. According to Aldrich, BPA is an “incidental non-ingredient” — a compound that makes its way into pet foods during production. “This is nothing underhanded or disingenuous, merely a function of the process, package and regulations,” he explains. My view is that while contamination with BPA isn’t intentional, it’s also not desirable, and since it’s apparently unavoidable per Aldrich, it’s up to pet parents to decide whether to take the risk that the pet food they buy is contaminated. To protect your whole family from BPA exposure, avoid canned foods and don’t store food in #7 plastics (you can find a chart of plastic types here). You can provide ongoing BPA detoxification support by offering foods rich in Lactobacillus acidophilus (kefir and yogurt)5 and glutathione-rich foods (including culinary and medicinal mushrooms).6 5.Dioxins — Dioxins are created during many industrial processes when chlorine or bromine are burned in the presence of carbon and oxygen. These environmental pollutants can disrupt the delicate signaling of both male and female sex hormones in the body. Unfortunately, dioxins are found in much of the U.S. food supply. Factory-produced meat, fish, milk, eggs, and butter are the products most likely to be contaminated, so offer your pets (and yourself) as much organic food as possible. Also, avoid feeding fish, since the majority of seafood these days is contaminated by toxic metals and industrial chemicals like dioxins. Because dioxins are fat soluble, they’re stored in adipose tissues, so I use the ancient Ayurvedic practice of lipophilic-mediated detoxification (using healthy fats, including ghee, coconut and MCT oil) to pull out fat-stored toxins.7 6.Aflatoxins — According to PetfoodIndustry.com’s Greg Aldrich, Ph.D., professor and pet food program coordinator at Kansas State University, aflatoxin contamination is a recurring issue in pet food.8 The problem was more prevalent in 2020-2021 than in past years, and due to “climate change and shifting growth patterns for crops,” Aldrich believes aflatoxin contamination may be an even bigger issue going forward. I’ve been warning pet parents about the potential for aflatoxin contamination of pet food/feed for years, and sadly, my worst fears are being realized. In one of the most recent reported incidents, as of August 9, 2021, 130 pets in the U.S. had died and another 220 were sickened from apparently lethal levels of aflatoxins in Sportmix brand dog or cat food produced by Midwestern Pet Foods based in Evansville, IN.9 Aflatoxin contamination has been the cause of several regional pet food recalls and several major disease outbreaks over the past 20+ years. Aflatoxins are naturally occurring mycotoxins produced by the Aspergillus flavus and Aspergillus parasiticusfungi and are the most extensively researched mycotoxins in the world. They’re known to cause acute toxic illness and cancer in animals and humans and are considered among the most carcinogenic substances on the planet. Cats and dogs are more sensitive to aflatoxins than many other animals. Aflatoxins frequently contaminate agricultural crops before they are harvested. Conditions that promote pre-harvest contamination include high temperatures, prolonged periods of drought, and insect activity. Aflatoxins can also be a problem after harvesting if the crop stays wet for too long. And they can grow on stored crops if the moisture level is too high, and mold develops. The three plants with the highest rate of aflatoxin contamination are corn, peanuts, and cottonseed. Aflatoxicosis is more common in dogs than cats because commercial dog food formulas more often contain corn products. Thankfully, there are many animal model studies demonstrating how healing foods can be used to help the body detoxify from mycotoxins, including ginger,10 thyme,11 broccoli,12 turmeric,13 and carrots (and other apiaceous veggies). Does Your Pet Need a Detoxification Program? The world is becoming more polluted every day, and while we can’t control all points of chemical exposure for our family members, we need to do what we can to reduce known risks. Switching to nontoxic home and garden products, filtering the air and water in your home, and minimizing the chemicals you choose to put on and, in your pets, will cut down on tag-along contaminants. The only way to know exactly what you are feeding your pet is to buy the ingredients yourself and prepare nutritionally complete meals at home (Meal Mix for Dogs makes this easy!). If you choose to support a pet food company, knowing if human-grade ingredients are used and what quality control steps are in place for contaminant testing will bring you peace of mind (or send you looking for another pet food company to support). Your pet’s ability to clear accumulated toxins is based on the overall functioning of detoxification pathways. If those pathways aren’t working as they should, detoxification systems become stressed or completely overwhelmed. Fortunately, there are many ways you can assist your pet’s detoxification mechanisms to help them function optimally. Analysis by Dr. Karen Shaw Becker