Rabies Vaccination Status and Laws: Their Potential Impact on Your Companion Dog’s Lifestyle

The Rabies Challenge Fund published results demonstrated that duration of immunity to the rabies vaccine in dogs is at least five years. With that said, there is currently no option at this time for a companion dog parent to only vaccinate dogs against rabies every five years, after the 2 initial doses have been given within 12 months. States, counties, and municipalities create the laws for rabies vaccinations in dogs. This is not a matter of big government impinging on the rights of individuals and their companion pets, but is a matter of public health safety.

Please do not break or flout the law regarding rabies vaccinations. It could result in your companion dog’s quarantine, impounding, or even death if you do so…and probably not from rabies.

What can we as citizens do to extend the rabies vaccination intervals to five years?

We would need to advocate that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) to approve the licensing of a five-year rabies vaccination interval for dogs. Even though the Rabies Challenge Fund and M.F. Aubert in France demonstrated the efficacy of a five-year interval between rabies vaccinations with two separate trials twenty years apart, the USDA may require another trial because mortality from rabies is essentially 100% and – if caught too late – will more than likely already have spread to other animals and humans.

After that, the vaccine would need to be approved by a particular state’s department of agriculture and a pharmaceutical company would have to start producing it.

Yes; it is a big undertaking. You are more than welcome to take up the cause, and Kris Christine, Co-Trustee of the Rabies Challenge Fund, can give you assistance.

If you want to start petitioning for changes to rabies laws, we would suggest looking at the complete picture regarding all laws about dogs.

Indeed, state rabies vaccination laws are not complex, but are typically nestled or tied to several other laws. For the majority of states, the law is an initial vaccination during puppyhood, a one-year booster, and every three years after that with some differences between states. Additionally, rabies vaccines must be administered by a licensed veterinarian.

An aspect of the complete picture introduces one element of several complexities to the mix. Depending on the state, a county or municipality’s law could supersede a state’s law. For instance, a state law could require a puppy to be vaccinated against rabies by six months of age. However, a county or municipality’s law could require vaccination by four months of age.

Indeed, state rabies vaccination laws are not complex, but are typically nestled or tied to several other laws. For the majority of states, the law is an initial vaccination during puppyhood, a one-year booster, and every three years after that with some differences between states. Additionally, rabies vaccines must be administered by a licensed veterinarian.

The additional complexities are regarding the rabies vaccination status of a dog. As mentioned previously, rabies vaccination status is interwoven with separate laws such as dog bite laws, quarantine laws, running at large laws, leash laws, dog rabies tag laws, and medical exemptions from the rabies vaccine. Again, all of these can be different or more narrow at the city level depending on how a state structures its laws and constitution.

We discuss below some of the laws you could introduce or change. Even if you change a law regarding rabies vaccinations, it could be all for naught because of an existing statute.

Medical Exemption Laws

18 states have medical exemptions to rabies vaccines: Alabama, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Illinois, Maine, Massachusetts, Maryland, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Nevada, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Vermont, Virginia and Wisconsin.

Medical exemption laws can vary by state. Broadly speaking, the states that have medical exemption laws need proof that a dog is immunocompromised, has another condition such as cancer, is receiving treatment that will be compromised by the vaccination, or has had a documented adverse reaction to a vaccine. A veterinarian applies for a waiver on behalf of the dog. After that, the medical exemption usually is passed up to a county or state veterinarian and public health official for final approval.

When seeking a waiver, the Rabies Challenge Fund strongly advises that a rabies serum antibody titer test be performed. Adequate serum rabies titers in the USA are at least 0.1 IU/ml (formerly stated as a 1:5 dilution) by the Rapid Fluorescent Focus Inhibition Test (RFFIT) method. The standard set by the World Health Organization (WHO) is 0.5 IU/ml.

A titer alone at the 0.1 IU/ml level or above is not justification to waive the required rabies vaccination boosters. A titer just indicates that an animal has mounted an immune response to vaccination & has the specified level of protection to the rabies virus. In other words, titer is simply an assurance to the medical exemption grantors that a dog has the specified protection against the virus.

If you would like to push for medical exemption waivers in your state, Kris Christine can provide suggestions.

Why do titer laws not exist as a basis for an exemption?

We could see the argument for such legislation based on the import and export of dogs in rabies-free countries and Hawaii. The Fluorescent Antibody Virus Neutralization (FAVN) is the titer test required by Hawaii and most rabies-free countries. A passing FAVN result (≥= 0.5 IU/mL) provides proof of adequate response to rabies vaccination and can shorten the quarantine time in these areas. Of course, one may need to prove that there has never been an instance under these circumstances that a dog was infected with the virus.

By the way, the two laboratories approved by the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention for the FAVN test for importation into or exportation from the United States are Kansas State University and Auburn University. Each university may not have the same approvals based on country of destination.

We could also see the argument that WHO’s RFFIT titer test level of 0.5 IU/ml or greater suffices for adequate protection, therefore it should be legalized.

Kris Christine states, “As there is yet no rabies titer standard which has been established by governmental challenge studies in canines, it is unlikely that any state will pass legislation accepting them in place of current vaccination. Titers are a solid indicator that an animal has mounted an immune response to vaccination and has some level of protection, though until there are adequate data based on the same challenge criteria used for licensing rabies vaccines demonstrating that 88% of dogs exposed to rabies did not contract the disease at titers at or above a specific level, there are no solid data upon which to change current laws or protocols.”

Draconian Laws

Draconian laws do exist in several states and need to be revised – and this is where you could possibly make an immediate difference. For example, in Iowa:

“Right and duty to kill untagged dog: It shall be lawful for any person, and the duty of all peace officers within their respective jurisdictions unless such jurisdiction shall have otherwise provided for the seizure and impoundment of dogs, to kill any dog for which a rabies vaccination tag is required, when the dog is not wearing a collar with rabies vaccination tag attached.”

A scenario where this might be legal (but barbaric) could entail a frightened companion dog escaping his home due to a loud thunderclap or fireworks. The collar with the current tag falls off along the way. The neighbor three or four houses down shoots the unknown dog because the town or county does not have an animal shelter.

Repealing the entire law may be difficult, even if it is your goal. You may need to consider a total repeal after other qualifiers have been implemented. Qualifiers could be: tranquilization; only can be killed by peace officers; only unleashed or not securely confined dogs; exhibiting aggressive behavior; and/or, the dog is running at large without the owner present, in sight or actively seeking out the dog.

When Rabies Vaccinations Make a Difference

Bats, skunks and raccoons are the top spreaders of rabies in the United States currently. What if your companion dog comes into contact with one? Your dog’s unvaccinated, non-current or current vaccination status does make a difference.

New York City’s regulations are pretty much the standard across the country with some variations in length of quarantine time, prophylactic vaccinations, and place of quarantine.

As a basis, animal rabies surveillance in New York City began in 1992. Since then, more than 600 animals have tested positive for rabies in the city, the majority of which were raccoons.

NYC’s regulation states:

“Any dog or cat that may have been exposed to a rabid animal should be reported to the Health Department. The department will work with the pet owner and their veterinarian to determine appropriate follow up.

Dogs and cats that have never been vaccinated are required to either be euthanized or isolated for up to six months in a facility under daily veterinary observation. Dogs and cats whose rabies vaccinations are not current, and pets with bite wounds of unknown origin, will be managed on a case-by-case basis.

Dogs and cats that are currently rabies vaccinated should immediately receive a booster vaccine. They must also be confined and observed for 45 days in the owner’s home.”

Now, that is if your dog comes into contact with, scratched, or bitten by one of these animals.

His rabies vaccination status ultimately affects his lifestyle, ability to socialize, length of quarantine, and where he is quarantined.

By the way, your dog’s vaccination status also makes a difference if your dog bites a person or another animal.

Responsible Dog Companionship

Breed specific legislation is discriminatory and has not been proven to enhance public safety. All dogs may bite. We have heard of all breeds including Chihuahuas and Golden Retrievers biting or exhibiting aggression. The cause of the biting could be due to training, cognitive decline, undiagnosed hypothyroidism, sex, socialization, use of certain drugs and parasite preventives, previous experiences, and a slew of other reasons.

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) brings up a very good point. When animal control is directed to banning a breed, it is diverted from enforcement of other laws such as leash laws.

For this post, we have read articles from all over North America regarding leash laws and the companion parents that flout them. To be honest, we think justifications by pet guardians as to why a particular dog should not be leashed in a populated city or town are naïve, indignant, self-centered, and not in the best interest of anyone – even the unleashed dog.

Instead of standing up for the leashed dogs and humans that leash, what are the consequences that unleashed dogs and their humans might endure, and the impact of their actions on society?

#1. Diseases.

In 2018, New York City asked residents to keep their companion dogs leashed in Central Park due to an outbreak of distemper amidst the park’s raccoon population. The majority of dogs are vaccinated against distemper – which reduces the likelihood of the disease’s spread to dogs – but a dog could still catch it from a diseased raccoon. Remember, raccoons can also spread rabies.

For instance, let’s say an unleashed dog catches a whiff of littered French fries and bounds for it. The unleashed dog disturbs a raccoon while seeking the fries. The raccoon then defensively bites the dog.

#2. Fines.

#3. Liabilities.

“The owner of a dog shall be liable to an injured party for all damages done by the dog, when the dog is caught in the action of worrying, maiming, or killing a domestic animal, or the dog is attacking or attempting to bite a person, except when the party damaged is doing an unlawful act, directly contributing to the injury.”

We know of leashed dogs that suffer the long-term psychological effects of being maimed by unleashed dogs. So, an unleashed dog that may approach a leashed dog – with ongoing trauma due to a previous event – which can cause the leashed dog to worry or snap.

#4. Eviction depending on where they live.

#5. Justification to maintain draconian laws such as the one above.

#6. Impoundment.

#7. Gossip.

Companion dog parents express ire toward unleashed dog owners and people who do not pick up their dog’s poop.

Municipalities have constructed and continue to construct off-leash areas (OFA) or dog parks so companion dogs can be off-leash. Starting a campaign to build an OFA is more constructive and friendly than arguing with neighbors.

SUMMARY

Rabies vaccination laws should be adapted and updated based on the current risk of the disease in the United States and Canada, and elsewhere, but it will take time. We have to remember the other dog-related laws that are independent of, or slightly dependent on, rabies laws. Many are well-meaning for the health and safety of every dog and person. But, the draconian laws need to be repealed or revised. Flouting the rabies vaccination laws will only keep the draconian laws in place. Time is better spent changing the draconian for the good of one and all.

Additional Resources

Dodds, W. Jean. Rabies Virus Does Exist. Hemopet, 13 May 2023, https://hemopet.org/rabies-virus-does-exist/.

Dodds, W. Jean. “Rabies: The Science & the Current Law.” Pet Health Resource, Tumblr, 11 July 2015, https://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/123835271561/rabies-vaccine-law#.ZCniWHbMLIX.

Phenix, Annie. Leash Your Dog. It’s the Law for a Number of Very Good Reasons. Dogster, 18 June 2015, https://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/leash-your-dog-its-law-for-number-very-good-reasons.

Phenix, Annie. What to Do When an Off-Leash Dog Approaches Your Leashed Dog. Dogster, 6 Aug. 2015, https://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/what-to-do-when-an-off-leash-dog-approaches-your-leashed-dog.

Shaw Becker, Karen. What Every Pet Parent Needs to Know About Rabies. Barks & Whiskers, 12 Mar. 2023, https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/what-is-rabies/.

Article
June 4, 2023 / Infectious Diseases & Vaccines / By Dr. Dodds

Prey Model Raw (PMR) Diet For Puppies

PREY MODEL RAW (PMR) DIET FOR PUPPIES

The Prey Model Raw (PMR) diet eliminates processed foods and provides puppies with a natural diet which mimics what their ancestors and wild cousins consumed. A complete PMR diet mimics whole, wild prey animals and does not include plant ingredients.

The PMR diet is one of the many raw diet types suitable for puppies. It is important to note that many ratio raw diets can be lacking in certain essential nutrients when specific whole foods are not fed. Ratio diets are a great base and adding several additional whole foods can help to fill the common nutritional gaps.

PREY MODEL RAW (PMR)

The recommended guidelines for a puppy PMR diet is 64-69% muscle meat, 17% raw edible bone, 7% liver, 7% other secreting organs, and 0-5% animal based fiber. Franken Prey is another term used for raw feeders who follow PMR ratio guidelines but do not feed whole, intact prey animals.

Instead of whole prey, a variety of animal ingredients are used to complete PMR ratio guidelines. Meals can consist of multiple protein sources and different ingredients in a single feeding. It is important to note that most PMR diets are not able to mimic wild prey completely. Therefore, additional whole foods or supplements are frequently necessary to fill the common nutritional gaps.

Muscle Meat

PMR diets consist of raw muscle meat to provide essential protein, amino acids, and water-soluble vitamins. The muscle meat ratio guideline starts at 64-69% of the overall daily intake.

It is important to note the muscle meat ratio does not mean to feed muscle meat exclusively. This ratio is a large category containing multiple ingredients including saturated fat for energy and muscular organs such as heart and tripe.

Raw Edible Bone

Soft, raw edible bones are an important component in PMR diets for puppies to provide essential calcium, phosphorus, and other essential nutrients. Puppies have higher calcium and phosphorus requirements than adult dogs. Therefore, the puppy PMR diet has a higher edible bone percentage. The raw edible bone ratio guideline starts at 17% of the overall daily intake.

It is important to note that this ratio refers to the amount of bone alone, and does not include the meat on the bone. Since various raw meaty bones will differ in their bone content, some calculations will be required to know how much of each raw meaty bone to feed.

The amount of raw meaty bones a puppy may need to maintain firm and consistent stool will vary. The 17% edible bone ratio is a starting guideline. Many puppies do well on 15% to 20% raw edible bone content. Always adjust according to the puppy’s individual needs.

Liver

Liver is an important ingredient in PMR diets for puppies as it provides essential fat-soluble vitamin A and water-soluble vitamins. Ruminant liver also provides the essential mineral copper. The liver ratio guideline is slightly higher in puppy PMR diets due to their higher need for essential nutrients during optimal growth. Liver ratio guideline starts at 7% of the overall daily intake.

The 7% liver ratio is a starting guideline and this amount of liver provides more than recommended allowances for vitamin A. For puppies who are sensitive to organs, feeding as low as 5% liver will still provide essential vitamin A. It is recommended to include ruminant liver such as beef or lamb liver in raw diets for puppies.

Other Organs

Other secreting organs, particularly spleen, are beneficial ingredients in PMR diets for puppies to provide essential minerals and water-soluble vitamins. Similar to the liver ratio, the other organ ratio guideline starts at 7% of the overall daily intake.

Other secreting organs are beneficial in completing essential nutrient requirements for puppies. The 7% ratio guideline is a starting recommendation, and more or less, a secreting organ can be fed to complete nutritional requirements. It is recommended to include spleen in raw diets for puppies to meet their higher needs for essential iron.

Animal-Based Insoluble Fiber

PMR ratio guidelines fail to include fiber-based foods, which would be present in true whole prey feeding. Therefore, including an animal-based fiber source to Franken Prey feeding methods is recommended. Foods that include fur or feathers provide insoluble fiber to the diet to promote colon health.

Traditional PMR ratios do not provide an animal-based fiber ratio guideline. However, 2 to 5% by weight of “furry” or “feathered” ingredients is a good recommendation to include in daily meals. This will help provide 1-2% fiber in the diet. Be sure to account for any bone and meat that is also provided by the furry ingredients.

It is important to note that the 2-5% ratio refers to the furry ingredients as a whole, which will also include the skin and tissue in the weight. Do not feed the weight in fur or feathers alone. Appropriate sources of fur can include: rabbit feet, rabbit ears, rabbit heads, feathered poultry heads or legs, raw or safely dried animal skin with fur.

When furry or feathered ingredients are not accessible, it is recommended to include a fiber source such as psyllium husk in PMR diets at 1.25 tsp per pound of food.

Nutritional Deficiencies

If a PMR diet is fed without specific raw ingredients, the raw diet will be deficient in a few essential nutrients. The ratio guidelines for a PMR diet for puppies are category terms and may include a variety of ingredients that provide different nutrients essential to a puppy’s health.

CLOSING COMMENTS

Puppy Prey Model Raw (PMR) ratios are different than adult dog PMR ratios since puppies have higher requirements for certain essential nutrients. PMR diets for puppies typically do not include plant ingredients and can be deficient in various essential nutrients if specific ingredients are not fed. However, this does not mean that dogs require plant ingredients to have a complete diet. Puppies have requirements for essential nutrients. The diet must supply the nutrients in adequate amounts to be considered balanced.

Article by

PMR Diet, Prey Model Raw Diet for Puppies, Raw Feeding Diet Types (perfectlyrawsome.com)

NRC Nutrition Requirements for puppies

Puppies cannot regulate vitamins and nutrients like an adult dog can, and puppies require a daily balanced diet. Biologically Appropriate Raw Food (BARF) model or Prey Model Raw (PMR) raw diets provide guidelines on items to include in a raw diet to provide essential nutrients and recommended calories for proper growth and development.

The ingredients included in a puppy’s raw diet need to be selected to ensure recommended allowances for essential nutrients are met daily.

MACRONUTRIENTS FOR PUPPIES

Macronutrients are the first piece in nutrition where they are necessary for optimal health. There are three primary macronutrients which includes protein, lipids (fats), and carbohydrates. Each macronutrient is found in nearly all foods and supply calories for energy.

Recommended Daily Allowances for Macronutrients

Macronutrients are defined as a class of chemical compounds which are consumed in large quantities and provide the bulk of energy within the diet.

Protein

Proteins are large complex molecules composed of amino acids and is the main structural component of body tissue. Puppies do not have a nutritional requirement for protein because the body can synthesize new proteins with amino acids and nitrogen. However, puppies have specific requirements for amino acids, carbon skeletons, and nitrogen.

Protein supplied in food provides essential amino acids, carbon skeletons, and nitrogen to fulfill nutritional requirements. The primary role of protein is to supply amino acids for muscle and organ protein synthesis, the creation of enzymes, the creation of hormones, and energy.

Nutritional Research Council (NRC) provides the following protein recommendations for puppies 14 weeks and older per 1000kcal consumed:

Minimum: 35g
Recommended Allowance: 43.8g

Fat

Fat provides nutritional compounds to supply puppies with energy, essential fatty acids (EFAs), and is a vehicle for nutrient absorption and transportation. Fat is the primary source of energy for dogs, particularly growing puppies, and providing a raw diet with sufficient amounts of fat is important to optimal health and development.

Nutritional Research Council (NRC) provides the following fat recommendations for puppies 14 weeks and older per 1000kcal consumed:

Recommended Allowance: 21.3g
Maximum: 330g

Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates are another source of energy and supply the body with glucose once digested and metabolized. There are two types of carbohydrates, simple and complex, and the difference between the two are the number of sugar units. Complex carbohydrates include starchy and fibrous foods whereas simple carbohydrates are found in foods such as fruit.

Nutritional Research Council (NRC) does not provide carbohydrate recommendations for puppies, but they have a nutritional requirement for glucose. Glucose is easily supplied through carbohydrates. However, if carbohydrates are not supplied in the diet, glucose requirements can be met through precursor nutrients, glycogenic amino acids or glycerol from fats, through gluconeogenesis.

Although puppies do not have a nutritional requirement for carbohydrates, this does not mean the addition of carbs are not beneficial.

Water accounts for a large portion of the total amount of food ingested in a normal raw diet and does not provide any nutritional value. However, water is an essential nutrient necessary for optimal health.

MICRONUTRIENTS FOR PUPPIES

Additionally, puppies have different micronutrient requirements in comparison to adult dogs. Puppies have higher requirements for amino acids, fats, vitamins, and minerals in comparison to adult dogs and these nutrients must be supplied in sufficient amounts in the diet.

Recommended Daily Allowances for Essential Nutrients

Nutritional Research Council (NRC) provides the following Recommended Allowances (RA) for puppies 14 weeks and older per 1000kcal consumed:

Essential Amino Acids

NutrientRAMinimumMaximum
Arginine1.65 g1.33 g
Histidine0.63 g0.50 g
Isoleucine1.25 g1.00 g
Leucine2.05 g1.63 g
Lysine1.75 g1.40 g
Methionine0.65 g0.53 g
Methionine + Cystine1.33 g1.05 g
Phenylalanine1.25 g1.00 g
Phenylalanine + Tyrosine2.50 g2.00 g
Threonine1.58g1.25 g
Tryptophan0.45 g0.35 g
Valine1.40 g1.31 g

Essential Fatty Acids

NutrientsRAMinimumMaximum
Linoleic Acid3.30 g65 g
α-Linolenic Acid0.20 g
Arachidonic Acid0.08 g
Eicosapentaenoic + Docosahexaenoic Acid (EPA/DHA)0.13 g11 g

Essential Fat-Soluble Vitamins 

NutrientRAMinimumMaximum
Vitamin A379 RE*3750 RE*
Vitamin D3.4 mcg20 mcg
Vitamin E7.5 mg

* Vitamin A: 1 IU is the biological equivalent of 0.3 micrograms (mcg) retinol

Essential Water-Soluble Vitamins

NutrientRAMinimumMaximum
Vitamin B1 (Thiamine)0.34 mg
Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)1.32 mg
Vitamin B3 (Niacin)4.25 mg
Vitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid)3.75 mg
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine)0.375 mg
Vitamin B7 (Biotin)*
Vitamin B9 (Folate & Folic acid)68 mcg
Vitamin B12 (Cobalamin)8.75 mcg
Choline425 mg

Biotin requirements are not determined for puppies and adult dogs. However, about half of biotin requirements are created by gut microbes and the remaining requirements is supplied by the diet. Diets that include raw egg whites and antibiotics have a higher requirement for biotin.

Essential Macro Minerals 

NutrientRAMinimumMaximum
Calcium3 g2 g18 g
Phosphorus2.5 g
Magnesium100 mg
Potassium1.10 g
Sodium550 mg
Chloride720 mg

Essential Micro Minerals

NutrientRAMinimumMaximum
Iron22.00 mg18.00 mg
Copper2.70 mg
Zinc25.00 mg10.00 mg
Manganese1.4 mg
Selenium87.50 mcg52.5 mcg
Iodine220.00 mcg

When combining recommended allowances for essential nutrients with raw feeding ratio guidelines, a balanced raw diet using whole foods can be achieved to supply a puppy with the appropriate nutrition to support optimal growth and development.

RAW FEEDING RATIO GUIDELINES

A raw diet is divided into percentages, known as ratio guidelines, to provide an estimate on how much of each ingredient is needed. Ratios from BARF and PMR diets are guidelines for the amount of muscle meatraw meaty bonesorgansvegetablesseeds, and fruit to include in a raw diet for a puppy.

Similar to maintenance percentages, raw diet ratios are to be used as a guideline when selecting ingredients and creating a raw diet. Once maintenance percentages are calculated, ratio guidelines can be determined.

Example 1

Puppy profile in english units:

6 Months Old

Large Breed

23 Pounds

1000 Calories

Estimated Caloric Need

22oz Intake

Estimated Daily Intake

Calculate ratio guidelines in english units:

Puppy PMR Ratios

22 x 0.69 = 15.2oz muscle meat
22 x 0.17 = 3.74oz edible bone
22 x 0.07 = 1.54oz liver
22 x 0.07 = 1.54oz other organ

Puppy BARF Ratios

22 x 0.58 = 12.7 oz muscle meat
22 x 0.17 = 3.74oz edible bone
22 x 0.07 = 1.54oz liver
22 x 0.07 = 1.54oz other organ
22 x 0.07 = 1.54oz vegetables
22 x 0.03 = 0.66oz seeds/nuts
22 x 0.01 = 0.22oz fruit

Example 2

Puppy profile in metric units:

6 Months Old

Large Breed

10.5 Kilograms

1000 Calories

Estimated Caloric Need

630g Intake

Estimated Daily Intake

Calculate ratio guidelines in metric units:

Puppy PMR Ratios

630 x 0.69 = 434.7g muscle meat
630 x 0.17 = 107.1g edible bone
630 x 0.07 = 44.1g liver
630 x 0.07 = 44.1g other organ

Puppy BARF Ratios

630 x 0.58 = 365.4g muscle meat
630 x 0.17 = 107.1g edible bone
630 x 0.07 = 44.1g liver
630 x 0.07 = 44.1g other organ
630 x 0.07 = 44.1g vegetables
630 x 0.03 = 18.9g seeds/nuts
630 x 0.01 = 6.3g fruit

Adapting Ratio Guidelines into a Balanced Diet

Ratio calculations provide a guideline on ingredients to include in a raw diet. Each ingredient provides essential nutrients to use when formulating a balanced raw diet for growing puppies.

Muscle Meat

The muscle meat portion of raw ratios assists in supplying protein, amino acids, fats, vitamins (water soluble B vitamins), and some minerals.

Raw Meaty Bones

The main role of the edible bone ratio is to supply calcium within a raw diet. Raw meaty bones provide muscle meat and edible bone which assists in supplying protein, amino acids, fats, and minerals (calcium and phosphorus).

Liver & Secreting Organs

The liver and other organ ratios assists in supplying protein, amino acids, vitamins (vitamin A and B vitamins), and minerals (iron and copper).

Vegetables, Seeds, Nuts, & Fruit

The vegetables, seeds, and fruit portion of raw ratios assists in supplying carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins (vitamin E and B vitamins), minerals (manganese and magnesium), and antioxidants.

CLOSING COMMENTS

Puppies lack the ability to regulate nutrients like adult dogs and require daily nutritional balance for essential nutrients. Since puppies require multiple meals a day, each meal does not need to be accurately balanced. However, the amount of calories and nutrients fed in one day must provide all essential nutrients necessary for optimal growth and development.

MACRONUTRIENTS

Macronutrients should be met daily to ensure growing puppies are provided with a sufficient amount of calories for energy.

MICRONUTRIENTS

Amino acids, fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals are all essential nutrients necessary for optimal growth and development.

RAW DIET RATIOS

The ratios for muscle meat, raw edible bone, organs, and plant ingredients provide a guide on which ingredients to select to include in a raw diet for puppies.

Raw diet ratios provide guidance on which ingredients and their amounts to use when formulating a diet for a growing puppy. However, it is important to note these are starting guidelines, these are not “rules,” and adjustments should be made to complete recommended allowances for essential macro and micronutrients.

Article by 

NRC Nutritional Requirements for Puppies, Puppy Nutrition, Raw Feeding (perfectlyrawsome.com)

Starting Your Puppy on a Raw Diet

Starting Your French Bulldog Puppy On A Raw Diet

Start With One Protein Source

Regardless of whether you’re preparing your own raw or are using a prepared raw food, it’s best to start with one protein source. Give that one protein for a good week. If there are no signs of digestive upset, start your puppy on a second source of protein, and so on.

Muscle meat should make up about 35% to 50% of the diet.

Balance The Calcium And Phosphorus

This is fairly easy to do. If you view a turkey neck as a nice meaty bone, then your puppy’s diet should be half to two-thirds meaty bones (and half to one-third meats and organ meats). There’s no magic formula and every puppy is a bit different.

Despite what the kibble manufacturers say, it’s pretty easy to balance calcium and phosphorus. Plus, there’s a wider margin of error when feeding raw. Calcium that comes in a synthetic powder is nearly impossible for a puppy to excrete. This means an excess of calcium is more of a concern with synthetic products than with the naturally occurring calcium found in bones.

My favorite meaty bones (50% to 65% of the diet)

  • Turkey tails and necks
  • Chicken backs and necks
  • Veal ribs and tails
  • Venison bones of any kind
  • Chicken feet and beef windpipes (good source of naturally occurring glucosamine and chondroitin)
  • Beef neck bones (a great chew that won’t break teeth)

Balanced foods (feed these often)

Feed Three Times A Day

Your puppy should eat three small meals a day. Do this until he’s about six months of age – then he can eat twice a day and eventually once a day if you wish. This is especially important for small breed puppies as they can become hypoglycemic if meals are spread out too long.

Feed 2-3% Of His Adult Body Weight

Knowing how much to feed is often where people get caught up. But it’s actually pretty easier to figure out.

This is easier to determine if you have a purebred dog, but the amount you feed should be 2-3% of your puppy’s adult weight. If you’re not sure what that will be, feed about 10% of his current weight. Watch to see if he gets too fat or too thin and adjust accordingly.

Don’t Overdo It With The Organs

You don’t want to skip the organ meats. They are important because they are full of nutrients not found in muscle meat. But you want to introduce them slowly. Work up to organ meats as at least 10% of the total diet (25% is better).

Liver and other organ meats can cause some pretty nasty loose stools in puppies who have never had them before. If your puppy is new to raw feeding, wait until you see a good two or more weeks of solid stools before you introduce organ meats. Then add them in gradually instead of feeding one giant meal of liver. And remember to mix them up – don’t just feed liver.

RELATED: What’s the biggest mistake people make when it comes to feeding organs? Find out here.

Don’t Forget The Supplements

Even if you’re feeding free-range, organic meats, the earth is not what it used to be. Your puppy will benefit from some supplementation.

Supplements to consider include:

  • Phytoplankton – whole food nutrition that contains nearly every nutrient your dog needs
  • Nutritional herbs – alfalfa, dandelion leaf, nettle and more
  • Probiotics – friendly bacteria that protects the body from bacteria, viruses and fungi
  • Digestive enzymes – break down and absorb nutrients from food
  • Bovine colostrum – helps to build a strong immune system

Remember The Other Important Puppy Stuff

Make sure your puppy has plenty of fresh, non-chlorinated water. He should also have plenty of fresh air and exercise. Exercise for young puppies should not be forced walks. His growing joints will suffer less stress if you take him outside for short play or training sessions instead. Keep the walks short – about five minutes per month of age until he is about six months of age.

Find A Mentor Or Raw Feeding Chat Group

You will find there are plenty of experienced dog owners who love to help. We have a great group in our DNM The Pack Facebook group if you want to join us.

One day, you can return the favor and help another puppy owner realize how simple it is to raise puppies on raw!

Article by Dana Scott 

How to Socialize Your New Puppy

Socialization is one of the most misunderstood areas in dog training.The old-school concept of socialization meant you take your puppy out and get it used to interacting with people, places, and other dogs. When we explain that this thinking is exactly what causes many of the behavioral problems, people ask, “How can I get my puppy socialized if I can’t let him go out and play with other dogs?”Or they will say that they thought the way to deal with a shy puppy was to take it out and let strangers give it nice treats, so the puppy saw strangers as treat machines and not something to be afraid of.I have to admit, years ago, this was exactly how I recommended people socialize their puppies. The only problem was, over time, I learned I was wrong and there were much better ways to socialize dogs.

Our Definition of Socialization

Our definition of socialization is to get our dogs comfortable with new places and circumstances. We want our dogs to be indifferent to people, places, and things. I want my dog to look at strangers as part of the environment and something to ignore, not something to interact with.When we take our dog into strange new environments, we want our dogs to willingly look to us for leadership and direction.

How We Socialize Our Dogs

We start socialization the minute we get our dogs. It begins by showing the dog that we control every minute of its life. This is done using leashes and dog crates. We also show the dog that we are fun to be around. This is accomplished using food treats.As a rule, small puppies have more drive for food than for toys. With most working breeds, this will change over time if the triggers have been met at a young age. But this is food for another article.We train with verbal markers. You can read my article titled The Power of Training Dogs with Markers.The work with puppies begins with “charging the mark” and establishing a value for food rewards. This only takes a few days. Once we have it, we begin to work on the process of “engagement.”

Engagement

The core of our program on socializing your dog deals with engagement.When a dog is engaged with his handler, the dog is totally focused on the handler and ignores everything in the environment around him. This is a learned endeavor. Very few dogs will do this without training. If I had to put a number on it, I would say 1 in 10,000. The vast majority of dogs need to go through training steps to get and stay engaged with their handler.We start our puppies on engagement with high-value food treats. I don’t mean Walmart dog biscuits here. I mean small pieces of meat or some of the high-end all-natural dog treats we sell. When the dog is looking at us, we mark the behavior and reward it with a food treat. We also work engagement when the puppy is hungry. This means before we feed the dog. They quickly learn you’re a cool owner that is fun to be around.The process of training engagement is beyond the scope of this article. I could write a book on it. The video I produced titled The Power of Training Dogs with Food has a large chapter on engagement.Engagement begins at home in a distraction-free environment. (i.e., your kitchen, garage, or fenced backyard). As the dog learns to become more and more engaged with the handler, trainers can begin to take the dog to new locations and working engagement in new places. In the beginning, we select distraction-free environments.The dog will begin to learn that cool things happen when it gets taken to new locations. Gradually, we increase the level of distractions.The goal of the trainer is to go to as many different locations as possible with their dog and work engagement drills. As the program progresses, the handler looks for locations that stress the dog. This will become evident because it will become more difficult to engage the dog. When that happens, back away from the distraction to the point where you can get and keep the dog engaged. Once that happens, you continue to go back to that location and work on shortening the distance to the distraction.

The Problem with Strangers

The problem with allowing strangers to meet and greet your dog is there are very few people who understand this work. They can’t read the body language of a puppy to understand when it is stressed or fearful. This can easily result in putting a puppy into fight or flight. Once that happens, you have a big problem to fix and it’s a whole lot easier to avoid a problem that to go back and try and fix one. That can sometimes take weeks and months.

Learn How to Deal with Strangers and Your Puppy

The correct way to act when around someone’s new puppy is to ignore the pup. Don’t invade its space; don’t look at it; don’t talk to it: don’t try and pet it.Your job is to find a way to tell EVERYONE that approaches you when you are walking your dog exactly that. For every one person that understands this concept, there are 100,000 that don’t. I am always amazed at how many people out there ignore your warning and walk right up to your dog and try and pet it. When that happens, it is time to get real serious with people. I am far more concerned about my dog than I am about some idiot that can’t think, listen, or follow directions about my dog.Too many new dog owners are afraid to be rude to someone who invades their puppy’s space. Those are the people who end up with a pup that becomes fearful of strangers. Fearful puppies often bark at people (because their pack leader failed to protect them) which results in the stranger backing off. This only teaches the pup that acting aggressively works to drive scary people away. New owners then wonder why their pup goes off on everyone he sees. Well, it’s because the owner trained the pup to do this.It is a lot easier to tell people who won’t listen to BACK OFF! Don’t worry about their feelings. They certainly are not someone you want as a friend if they ignore you.

What To Do When Strangers Approach your Pup

The correct way to handle strangers is to always be prepared with a bait bag full of high-value food treats. If you see that your pup is a little concerned about someone, then get the pup engaged with you. It’s your job to become more interesting than the stranger and if the food rewards are high enough, the pup will look at strangers as the trigger for their owner to play with them and give them really cool treats.The same thing goes with new places that stress your puppy. If you see the pup getting a little nervous, get him engaged with you. Teach the pup that new scary places are not that bad after all because they are places where they get to play with their owner and get cool dog treats.

Why Not Let Strangers Feed Our Puppy?

So why not let strangers give your puppy treats? A good question with a couple of answers:Allowing other people to give your puppy teats only turns other people into distractions for your dog. You are essentially training your dog to ignore you around other people places and things. Where is the sense in that?If you have a dog that is fearful of strangers, you run the risk of the dog’s food drive overpowering the weak nerves. When that happens, the dog will go to the stranger, take the food, and once the food is gone, the dog is still left with his concern about the stranger. Quite often, these dogs will then bite (because aggression has taught them that strange people will back off).When people have a fearful dog and they allow strangers to give their puppy or dog food treats, the dog learns to expect it.

There will come a time when you don’t have a food reward to give to a stranger that is going to make your dog nervous. Don’t kid yourself that the dog doesn’t realize this. In its head, it’s thinking, “I WAS RIGHT! THIS PERSON MAKES ME NERVOUS AND HE IS NOT ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WHO GIVES ME TREATS SO I AM GOING TO BITE HIM!”Then the dog owner is in the position where they have a fearful aggressive dog and they wonder why. The fact is what they have done will amplify fear aggression in the dog.

What About Strange Dogs?

Let’s start with the fact that it often only takes one instance where a dog is attacked by another dog for that dog to become dog aggressive for life.New dog owners do not have the experience to recognize the signals and signs of dominance and aggression in a strange dog. For these two reasons, new puppy (or new dog) owners should NEVER allow strange dogs around their dog, NOT EVER!Those who chose to ignore this advice need to read the article I wrote titled How to Break Up a Dog Fight without Getting Hurt. Have a look at the dog bite photos that have been sent to me from people who read the article after trying to break up a dog fight and then going to Google to find out what they did wrong.There is nothing wrong with your dog having other dog friends, but the way to start your puppy learning manners around a friendly dog is to first find someone who thinks like you about dogs. Then look for a dog that is aloof to other dogs. I want a dog that ignores my puppy. In the beginning, the best of all worlds is to find a dog that doesn’t want to play and is totally aloof to my pup. If I keep my pup on a long line, I can work some engagement around the other dog. The perfect adult dog is one that will put a puppy in its place for inappropriate behavior without actually hurting it. This has to be done before the pup is 8 to 10 months old. It goes without saying that this work is always done when the owner is there to supervise.Putting two strange adult dogs together is never recommended unless you follow the correct protocol, and this article is not the place to talk about that.I wrote an article on why dog parks are a bad idea. If you’re a new puppy owner, you may want to visit that article. With that said, you can use a dog park to help train your dog. The way to do it is to stay outside of the fence with your dog and work engagement exercises without risk to your puppy.

What If a Strange Dog Approaches Us On a Walk?

Your job as a new dog owner is to learn how to become a pack leader. Most people are not born pack leaders but anyone can learn to be one. I have written article on this and done training DVDs on it.Part of the responsibility of a pack leader is to protect the lower-ranking pack members. This means it’s your job to protect your dog if it’s approached by another strange dog. If you walk in an area where there are strange dogs, carry a stout walking stick or bear spray.When a strange dog approaches you, step between your puppy and that dog. Sound very convincing and threaten the other dog to turn and leave. If it comes close don’t hesitate to use the stick or spray. I will guarantee you that if you crack a strange dog over the head with a stout stick, it will remember exactly who you are and will never come after you or your dog again.Not only that, but in doing this, you just gained a great deal of respect from your puppy (or dog).Here again, I need to bring up the point that far too many people are concerned about hurting other dog owners’ feelings. If you need to do this because another owner refuses to control their dog, well, so be it. There are enough idiots in the world and I don’t really care what they think about the crazy guy with a big stick.

Socializing Begins at Home

A well-socialized dog starts right in your home. Teaching your new dog manners and how you expect it to live in your home sets the stage for your relationship.We now raise our puppies in an ex-pen and a dog crate in the house. I am in the process of raising a Mal puppy at the moment. He currently is 6 months old and has lived in the ex-pen since he was 8 weeks old.I am privileged because I get to work in my home office with my ex-pen right next to my desk. My office has ceramic tile in case of any house training mistakes. Because of this arrangement, there have been very few. When the pup is not in the pen, he is in his dog crate, but he spends most of the time in the pen.This is where I taught him not to jump up on the sides of the pen when people come in. If he jumps up, we simply say NOPE or YUCK and step back. They quickly learn that there is no interaction when they are jumping up.The beauty of this system is that we can take the pen into our living room where we have our adult dogs and the puppy can be part of the family without the constraints of a dog crate. It can lay in his ex-pen while the older dogs lay around as we watch TV. This is just a great way to teach a puppy not to be wild in the home.In addition to this, we never allow our puppies to be off lead in the house. When they are out of the ex-pen they are on a lead. We use a buddy leash system (or one of our thin puppy leashes) that allows us to tether the dog to us ALL THE TIME. Allowing puppies to have free range in your home is a license for disaster. Puppies that are tethered to you can’t get into the garbage, they can’t sneak around the corner and pee or poop, and they can’t jump up on visitors or kids. New pet owners think the leash is only for outside use but nothing can be further from the truth. Using a tether in the house is a great way to control your pup and head off problems.

By Ed Frawley

Raw Feeding Puppies: BARF Diet

Raw feeding for puppies: BARF Diet

The BARF model diet is the most popular raw diet for puppies. A BARF diet can be home prepared with multiple ingredients to provide recommended allowances for most essential nutrients. Although, it is important to note that many ratio raw diets can be lacking in certain essential nutrients when specific whole foods are not fed. Ratio diets are a great base and adding several additional whole foods can help to fill the common nutritional gaps.

Adding vegetables, seeds and nuts, and fruit to a puppy’s diet provides many benefits. They often prove useful when formulating a complete and balanced raw diet.

The recommended guidelines for a BARF diet for puppies consists of 58% muscle meat, 17% raw edible bone, 7% vegetables, 7% liver, 7% other secreting organ, 3% seeds or nuts, and 1% fruit.

Muscle Meat

BARF diets for puppies consist of raw muscle meat to provide essential protein, amino acids, and water-soluble vitamins. The muscle meat ratio guideline starts at 58% of the overall daily intake.It is important to note that the muscle meat ratio does not mean to feed muscle meat exclusively. This ratio is a large category containing multiple ingredients such as saturated fat for energy and muscular organs such as heart and tripe.

Raw Edible Bone

Soft, raw edible bones are an important component to BARF diets for puppies to provide essential calcium, phosphorous, and other essential nutrients. The raw edible bone ratio guideline starts at 17% of the overall daily intake. It’s important to note that this ratio refers to the amount of bone alone, and does not include the meat on the bone. Since various raw meaty bones will differ in their bone content, some calculations will be required to know how much of each raw meaty bone to feed.

It is important to note that this ratio refers to the amount of bone only, and does not include the meat on the bone. Since various raw meaty bones will differ in their bone content, some calculations will be required to know how much to feed of each raw meaty bone.

The amount of raw meaty bones a puppy may need to maintain firm and consistent stool will vary. The 17% edible bone ratio is a starting guideline. Many puppies do well on 15% to 20% raw edible bone content. Always adjust according to the puppy’s individual needs.

Vegetables

Vegetables are beneficial ingredients in BARF diets for puppies to provide fiber and beneficial phytochemicals. The vegetable ratio guideline starts at 7% of the overall daily intake.

While not necessarily essential, vegetables are often beneficial for dogs. The 7% ratio guideline is a starting recommendation, and more or less vegetables can be fed depending on the needs of the individual.

LiverLiver is a very important ingredient in BARF diets for puppies as it provides essential fat-soluble vitamin A and water-soluble vitamins. Ruminant liver also provides the essential mineral copper. The liver ratio guideline is slightly higher in puppy BARF diets to meet their higher needs for essential nutrients during optimal growth. Liver ratio guideline starts at 7% of the overall daily intake.The 7% liver ratio is a starting guideline and this amount of liver provides more than recommended allowances for vitamin A. For puppies who are sensitive to organs, feeding as low as 5% liver will still provide essential vitamin A. It is recommended to include ruminant liver such as beef or lamb liver in raw diets for puppies.

Other Organs

Other secreting organs, particularly spleen, are important ingredients in BARF diets for puppies to provide essential minerals and water-soluble vitamins. Similar to the liver ratio, the other organ ratio guideline starts at 7% of the overall daily intake.

Other secreting organs are beneficial in completing essential nutrient requirements for puppies. Spleen is recommended in order to meet puppies’ high needs for iron. The 7% ratio guideline is a starting recommendation. More or less may be needed to complete nutritional requirements. It is recommended to include spleen in raw diets for puppies to meet their higher needs for essential iron

Seeds and Nuts

Raw seeds and nuts are beneficial ingredients in BARF diets for puppies to provide essential minerals, fatty acids, and fat-soluble vitamins. The raw seed and nut ratio guideline starts at 3% of the overall daily intake. This is slightly higher than the recommended amount for adult dogs because puppies have slightly higher needs for certain fatty acids.Seeds and nuts are beneficial for providing essential fatty acids for puppies, but they must be pre-soaked, drained and ground before feeding. Raw nuts and seeds contain phytates which are anti-nutrients and can negatively affect nutritional balance. Soaking raw seeds and nuts reduces phytates and grinding promotes optimal digestion. The 3% ratio guideline is just a starting recommendation.

Fruit

Fruit is a beneficial ingredient in BARF diets for puppies to provide antioxidants. However, they should only be fed in small amounts due to their sugar levels. The fruit ratio guideline starts at 1% of the overall daily intake.

Biologically Appropriate Raw Food (BARF) diets with additional whole foods are a great way to provide a balanced diet to puppies that provide all essential nutrients. Plant ingredients prove beneficial when creating raw diets for puppies.

article by https://perfectlyrawsome.com/raw-feeding-knowledgebase/biologically-appropriate-raw-food-barf-for-puppies

Marker Training for dogs and puppies

In technical terms, marker training is operant conditioning. Operant conditioning has been around for years. It is how dolphins are trained at SeaWorld.

Operant conditioning forms an association between a behavior and a consequence.

I can see new dog trainers reading this and shaking their heads thinking “Duh, isn’t that pretty obvious and what all dog training is about?”

My answer to that is “YES” but let’s go into a little more detail.

When a dog exhibits a behavior we like, we give them a high-value reward. That reward is either a high-value food treat or a high-value toy that the dog really loves. In marker training, if a dog does not perform a behavior, the consequence is “No Reward”. This is called a negative reinforcer. When a dog gets a negative reinforcer, it must then repeat the exercises if it wants to get the high-value reward.

In old-school dog training, the consequence of a negative behavior was a correction.

No matter what anyone ever tells you, dogs do things for themselves. Dogs don’t do things to make you feel good. They do things to make themselves feel good. They do things because they are motivated towards feeling comfortable in addition to doing things that eliminate feeling discomfort. This is a profound concept and one that pet owners often miss. Pet owners or new dog trainers are often led to believe that dogs will eventually do things to make their owners feel good. The reality is that this is seldom, if ever, the case.

So the key to operant conditioning is to teach a dog that when he performs a behavior that we like, he gets a reward that makes him feel good. The reward gives him a level of comfort. This reward can either be in the form of food, a toy he loves, or playing a game with the handler that he enjoys. In all my years of dog training, I have only known one dog that would work strictly for handler praise.

In the marker training system, there are only two consequences to a behavior that we are trying to train. There is either a reward or no reward. Which consequence happens depends on the behavior the dog exhibits to a stimulus. A stimulus can be a command or a cue (or lure) from the handler.

For dogs to associate a behavior with a reward or punishment, the reward or punishment must come immediately after the behavior. We tell people the consequence should come within a 1/2 second of the behavior. If a reward comes 5 seconds after a behavior, the dog has no idea why he is getting a reward. If a new dog owner comes home and finds a pile of dog poop in his kitchen and he proceeds to rub the dog’s nose in it, that dog still doesn’t have a clue why he is getting punished.

Now if the same dog has been on a leash in the kitchen and peed on the floor and the handler had scolded him the instant he saw the dog pee, the dog would associate the scolding with peeing because it came within 1/2 second of the behavior.

In training, it is not always possible to reward within a 1/2 second. In fact, no matter how hard you try, you cannot consistently reward a dog within a 1/2 second. To get around this, we bridge (or connect) the time frame between the behavior and the consequence that follows. This bridge allows us to extend the 1/2 second rule of consequences. That bridge is a word. We will call it a Marker. I like to use the word YES. Other people use other words. Many people use the sound from a clicker. You can use any word or sound you are comfortable with so long as you are consistent.

The marker is basically a way of telling your dog, “Hold on a second. I like what you just did and I am going to give you a high-value reward.”

There are positive and negative markers. The word for a negative Marker is “NO” or “NOPE.” It is important to mention that a negative marker is not a correction. It is simply a way of communicating to the animal that he just made a mistake and if he expects to get that high-value reward, he needs to redo the behavior correctly.

Through repetition, the dog learns that every time he hears the positive marker, he gets a reward. Every time he hears the negative marker, he does not get a reward and he has to repeat the behavior or exercise.

Dogs that are trained with markers become problem-solvers. They have learned (through the concept of negative reinforcement) that when one behavior doesn’t work, they need to try something else, and if that doesn’t work, they just keep trying because if they try long enough, they have a good chance of figuring out what you want and getting a high-value reward

The system allows trainers to reinforce correct behavior with “pinpoint accuracy” from a distance. It also allows dogs to make mistakes and then learn from their mistakes. The beauty of the system is that it also allows us to pinpoint the exact moment a dog makes a mistake, without correcting the dog in the process.

This is radically different from old-school dog training where dogs are corrected for doing something wrong. I remember the day when we would take an untrained dog and march down the street with the dog on a leash. We would do a quick left turn, right turn, or about turn as we said “HEEL” and give the dog a correction for not staying by our side. When I stop and think about it, how unjust was this to my dogs? It was a terrible way to train. It created dogs that were afraid to try and think on their feet because if they made a mistake, they would get a correction.

Training with markers is a simple concept to understand. It only takes a few minutes to explain why it works but it can take years to master. The journey is exciting and well worth the trip. Along the way, you will find that your dogs are a lot smarter than you once thought.

Those days are long gone with marker trainers.

The 5 Magic Words of Marker Training

READY or ARE YOU READY? is a word that tells our dog that we are about to start a training session. When you ask your dog if he is ready, you always have something on you to reward the dog with when he engages with you or starts to offer behaviors.

As your dog gains experience, you should never start training unless the dog demonstrates he is ready to play when you take him out. This is engagement. Getting engagement from a dog is a learned skill.

If he won’t play, then handlers need to put the dog away and think about what they need to do to get the dog engaged the next time they bring him out.

The relationship between you and your dog is more important than training. So if your dog isn’t engaged with you, if he doesn’t feel like playing today, then you should not try and teach him behaviors or exercises. Put him away or take him for a walk.

If you are having problems with engagement, I highly recommend you get our Training Dogs with Food DVD (or course). We have an entire chapter that teaches how to get engagement and a second chapter on how to socialize a dog to environmental stressors.

An interesting thing that seems to happen when dogs are trained to understand engagement is they view their handler as their own personal treat dispenser. In their eyes, they simply have to do this silly little exercise to make you give them a high-value treat or a toy.

YES is the word we use as a positive marker. It’s the word we use to bridge the time frame between a favorable behavior and us delivering a reward. Once the dog has been introduced to the concept of YES (we call this ‘charging the mark’), they quickly learn that every time you say YES, they know they are going to get the reward. With experience, they learn that this can take 3 or 4 seconds if you are not right next to them when you say YES.

It is important that trainers understand that YES is not verbal praise. Trainers new to markers commonly misunderstand the difference between a marker word and praise. They need to learn that they can mark the moment with a YES and then praise the dog with GOOD BOY.

When a trainer who gets excited says “YES, YES, YES, YOU’RE A GOOD BOY”, they only confuse the dog because in effect, they are marking three moments in time. We will talk more about this later.

YES is also a word that is used as a release command when the dog does something correctly. This means YES not only tells the dog that what he just did was correct, it also tells the dog that he can stop doing what he is doing and he is now free to interact with you to get his food reward, to play tug, or to chase a toy, etc.

GOOD is a word that means “I like what you are doing, and I want you to continue to do what you are doing.”

In other words, GOOD is the word we use to add duration to a command. A perfect example would be to use GOOD when we are teaching the dog to stay in the down position. When we teach duration for the down, we would not mark with a YES because that mark is a release. If we used YES instead, that would mean we just gave the dog permission to get up and get his reward.

So new trainers need to understand that GOOD is not a release command. When we say GOOD, the dog needs to understand that he should continue doing what he is doing and that he will get a reward at some point in the future.

Unlike YES, when we first start training the duration marker, we can say GOOD a number of times in a row. We can say GOOD GOOD GOOD as many times as we need to get the dog to continue to do what he is doing.

NOPE is a word that is used as a negative marker. It means, “You just made a mistake and you have to do the exercise all over again.” It does not mean we are mad. It does not mean that he is going to get a correction. It only means that he needs to repeat what we expected him to do if he really wants the high-value reward.

If the reward is high enough in value to the dog, it doesn’t take a dog long to figure out that NOPE means “DO IT AGAIN.”

DONE or BREAK (as in “take a break”) is the word that tells the dog that our training session is finished for now. The session can be finished for 5 minutes or it can mean we are done for the day.

When we say DONE, the food or toys are put away. When the handler says DONE or BREAK and shows his dog his empty hands, it doesn’t take long for the dog to know that this training session is over.

With time this becomes very clear to our dog.

The beauty of marker training is that we can clearly tell a dog by using READY that we are going to start training and with DONE we are finished with training. It becomes very clear to the dog when we expect him to work.

Don’t Confuse Your Dog – Only Say “YES” One Time

The reason you should only say YES one time is because dogs see life as a series of pictures or snapshots. Remember how intuitive our dogs are. They know exactly what they were doing at the exact moment good things happen to them.

So when they look into your eyes and you mark that moment by saying YES followed by a high-value food treat, they quickly figure out the trigger to get you to give them another treat is to look into your eyes.

But when trainers get excited and say YES 4 or 5 times in a row, they confuse their dog. The dog doesn’t know if they got rewarded for looking in your eyes or if the reward came from lowering their head to look at your hand or for something else.

Charging the Mark

When we talk about “charging the mark”, we are talking about the introductory training session where we teach our dog that YES means it is getting a high-value treat.

We start this system with food instead of toys. Many high-drive dogs can’t focus in the presence of a toy. They go into a zone where they can’t think. This doesn’t happen with food so we set the foundation of markers with food before introducing toy rewards.

Charging the mark can be done anywhere, in your kitchen, your basement, or your backyard. The goal of “charging the mark” is to teach the dog to associate hearing YES with knowing he is going to get a high-value reward.

When we start “charge the mark” training, the dog does not have to do anything to get marked. We simply say YES or click the clicker and give the dog a food treat. He doesn’t have to sit, he doesn’t have to come to us, he doesn’t have to do anything. We just say YES and feed the dog. Do this again and again so that they associate the word YES with a reward.

With that said, there are a few things you have to look out for when charging the mark. It is important that the word YES is never said at the same instant you move your arm to reach for the food treat. For marker training to work, there must be a short lapse in time between saying the word YES and moving the arm to produce the food reward. If you move your arm at the same time as saying YES, your dog will start thinking that your arm movement is what gets him the treat and not the YES.

You will know your dog is getting it when you say YES and the dog looks at you like HEY, GIVE ME THAT TREAT! Most dogs pick up the concept of a charged YES or charged CLICK within the first training session. If you go out and say YES to a dog 30 to 50 times in a row, he is going to connect the dots.

Not Giving a Mark is Valuable Information to Your Dog

Don’t underestimate your dog’s understanding of your silence. When you don’t offer any mark (by being silent), you are simply telling the dog to that it has not yet performed the behavior you want. It is simply a non-stressful way to tell your dog he needs to “keep trying”.

Dogs are Masters at Reading Body Language

Dogs are far more intuitive than we humans. They are always watching us and they instinctually recognize situations and read us like a book. They know when we are happy and they know when to leave us alone. They base ALL of their life’s decisions on what reinforces their level of comfort and what satisfies their pack instincts.

New dog trainers mistakenly think their dogs listen to them all the time. They think the dog automatically knows when commands are given. The fact is that dogs may listen but they don’t naturally pick up on our every word. In fact, trained dogs don’t understand much of what we say. But they are very intuitive about reading and recognizing specific situations or pictures (of our body language). They are so good at this that we think they know what we are saying when in fact, they don’t have a clue.

A perfect example of this is a dog that learns to sit in your kitchen. The dog can perform the sit exercise 200 times in the kitchen and you may think he has that concept of the SIT command down pat. Then you take him into your garage and say SIT and he looks at you like you are a man on the moon speaking Swahili. He acts like you have two heads and he has never heard the word SIT before.

A better example is when the dog has always been given the SIT command when you are standing in front of him in the kitchen. Simply turning your back and saying SIT results in a blank stare. Sometimes when you are kneeling down or sitting on the floor, you can say SIT and still get no result.

That is because the dog does not understand the concept of SIT. He doesn’t know what you are asking him to do. You may think he knows the word SIT but what he really knows is that when he sees the picture of you standing in front of him in the kitchen, he should SIT.

So when you see a dog do this, you need to know that your dog has not yet grasped the concept of the verbal SIT command.

Marker training is going to teach you how to communicate with your dog so they can understand your commands in a way that the dog enjoys.

Written by Ed Frawley

Traditional Spay-Neuter Shouldn’t Be the Answer for Every Dog

It’s time to consider broader use of alternative sterilization procedures that don’t remove the ovaries or testes, especially for large and giant breed dogs.

A growing body of scientific evidence indicates that spaying and neutering dogs, especially large and giant breeds, and especially at an early age, increases the risk for a wide range of long-term health problems

Animal Health vs. Animal Welfare

Given the mounting evidence that desexing may not be appropriate in every instance, animal health organizations such as the Morris Animal Foundation and the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) have begun to back away from the 1970s-era orthodoxy that called for early spay/neuter for every pet in the U.S.

Back then, both veterinarians and responsible pet owners signed on wholeheartedly to the spay/neuter movement out of a genuine desire to help solve the terrible problem of unwanted pets, tens of millions of which were euthanized in shelters each year.

Today, 31 states and the District of Columbia require that pets adopted from shelters be spayed or neutered before they leave the facility, or that adopters contractually agree to have the procedure performed within a certain timeframe. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) and other animal welfare organizations also advocate early desexing of all companion animals.

To animal welfare groups charged with managing unwanted pets, the current spay/neuter strategy makes sense.

They are necessarily focused on the big picture, and the most effective way to reduce the homeless pet population is to prevent pregnancy. Whereas individual pet owners only have to make sterilization decisions for the dogs in their care, animal welfare organizations must make those decisions on a much larger scale, for the good of the many rather than the few.

How About a Compromise? Sterilization Without Desexing

The reason, in simple terms, that spays/neuters can cause long-term health problems is because these procedures remove the hormone-producing gonads (ovaries or testes). These hormones are used by the body in a multitude of important ways — especially in the case of young animals. Removing the gonads removes dogs’ ability to make these very important naturally occurring substances.

Spays and neuters are desexing procedures (i.e., they remove the animal’s ability to produce sex hormones) used primarily for purposes of sterilization to prevent pregnancy. What many pet owners don’t realize, and veterinarians aren’t taught in vet school, is that dogs can be sterilized without being desexed.

For example, female dogs can undergo a modified spay, also called an ovary-sparing spay or hysterectomy (vs. ovariohysterectomy) that removes the uterus but leaves the ovaries in place, and male dogs can have a vasectomy that preserves the testes. Both procedures result in sterilization, but without removing the gonads and the hormones they produce.

Ovary-Sparing Spay

Because the ovaries are preserved in modified spays, female dogs continue to have estrous cycles (go into heat), but since the uterus has been removed, there’s no bloody discharge. However, the vulva does enlarge. In addition, females continue to secrete pheromones that are attractive to male dogs, and they are receptive to males during their cycles.

It’s recommended that female dogs who’ve undergone ovary-sparing spays not be allowed to mate while in heat, for post-surgery anatomical reasons that may increase the risk of vaginal trauma.

Vasectomy

Vasectomy in dogs is similar to the procedure for men. Each vas deferens (a tube that carries sperm from the testes and epididymis to the urethra during ejaculation) is cut or clamped so that sperm cannot move through. The procedure is completed under anesthesia but is relatively quick and simple. Technical details can be found here. This method of sterilization is accepted by the American Veterinary Medical Association.

There are few health concerns when completing a hormone-sparing sterilization on a male dog, since the only health conditions prevented by neuter are benign prostatic hyperplasia in older dogs (which is treatable by neuter or noninvasive electromagnetic therapy), and testicular cancer (which is also a disease of old age and is treated by castration, which is usually curative).

The dog will be sterile but will still have hormones and be attracted to females in heat. Thus, owners must be willing to keep their dogs from roaming in search of females.”

Unfortunately, only full spays and neuters are taught in U.S. veterinary schools, so there are relatively few veterinarians across the country who have learned alternative techniques. Please take a minute to email your state veterinary teaching hospital (if you have one) or the AVMA and ask that students be taught alternative techniques while in vet school.

The good news is that the Parsemus Foundation has compiled a state-by-state list of veterinarians who do provide such services

My Sterilization Recommendations

My approach is to work with each individual pet parent to make decisions that will provide the most health benefits for the dog. Whenever possible, I prefer to leave dogs intact. However, this approach requires a highly responsible pet guardian who is fully committed to and capable of preventing the dog from mating (unless the owner is a responsible breeder and that’s the goal).

It’s important to note that I’m not advocating the adoption of intact shelter animals to people who may or may not be responsible pet owners. Shelter veterinarians don’t have the time or resources to build a relationship with every adoptive family, so the animals in their care must be sterilized prior to adoption to prevent more litters of unwanted pets.

My second choice is to sterilize without desexing so the testes or ovaries can continue to produce hormones essential for the dog’s health and well-being.

Rarely, older, intact male dogs develop moderate to severe benign prostatic hyperplasia (an enlarged prostate) that may be improved with conventional neutering. Generally speaking, mature intact dogs have had the benefit of a lifetime of sex hormone production, so the endocrine imbalances we see with spayed or neutered puppies don’t occur when dogs are desexed in their later years.

Unfortunately, as I mentioned earlier, veterinary schools in the U.S. only teach full spays and neuters, so unless your own vet has obtained additional training in sterilization techniques that spare the ovaries or testicles (which is unlikely), you may have only one option available to sterilize your pet.

In that case, my suggestion would be to wait until your dog has reached full musculoskeletal maturity, and if you have a female, I’d also wait until she’s completed her second estrus cycle before scheduling the surgery.

Analysis by Dr. Karen Shaw Becker
Feb 13, 2023 • 5 min read

Top 5 Causes of Puppy Diarrhea

Having a new puppy in your home is an exciting time for your family. But then the dreaded puppy diarrhea strikes … and you’ll want to figure out what caused it.

What Does Puppy Diarrhea Look Like?

Here’s what you may see if your puppy has loose stool or diarrhea:

Soggy and loses shape when picked up
Forms in piles (consistency of soft serve ice cream)
Piles or spots without shape
Watery, flat puddles

Top 5 Causes Of Puppy Diarrhea

Stress

These are the main situations that can cause diarrhea in puppies.

Your puppy has left his littermates and mother … the only family he’s known for his entire life so far. The stress of this can show up as diarrhea. Stress hormones can lead to gastrointestinal upset. Stress can also cause your puppy’s colon to become inflamed and stop absorbing water, so it just passes through as loose stools. Too much play and excitement might also lead to diarrhea.

Change In Diet

A new puppy is weaned from his mother’s milk, switched to his breeder’s diet and then can come home to another change in diet. It can be hard to make all those switches in a short period of time … though puppies who were weaned onto a varied diet will transition more easily to a new food.

Plus, a puppy is always on the hunt for anything to eat. Puppies explore with their mouths, so he might eat poop, plants, sticks, socks or whatever else he can find. He could also get food poisoning from getting into contaminated food. Your puppy has an immature immune system and diarrhea can be the result of these adventures. Situations like this usually resolve in a day or two.

Vet Treatments

Many first-time puppy owners take their new family member for his first vet appointment. Any vaccines, dewormers or medications he gets can disrupt his gut bacteria and upset his digestive system. Diarrhea is often the result.

Parasites

Puppies’ immature immune systems can make them susceptible to worms and other parasites like giardia or coccidia. Fortunately there are natural ways to treat these parasites so you don’t have to resort to harsh dewormers or anti-parasitic meds.

Parvo

Parvovirus is quite a common viral disease that can infect puppies … and diarrhea is often the first thing you’ll notice. The hallmark of parvo is bloody diarrhea with a distinctive metallic smell. Other signs of parvo include vomiting, fever, lethargy and loss of appetite. If you suspect parvo, act fast and get a fecal sample to your vet for analysis.

The Danger Of Parvo

Puppies are most susceptible to parvo between 6 and 20 weeks old. The main danger from parvo is from dehydration. If your puppy tests positive for parvo, he’ll need urgent treatment, including IV or subcutaneous fluids, either at the vet clinic … or (only if you’re willing to care for him round the clock), at home with your holistic vet’s help. Don’t try to treat parvo on your own – it’s a very serious condition that needs veterinary guidance.

Ways To Manage Puppy Diarrhea + 2 Warnings

A mild case of diarrhea will usually clear up in a day or two without help. You might need to do more. But you can’t always treat a puppy with remedies you’d give a mature dog. So here are things you can do at home for your puppy.

Feed bland food like boiled chicken in a mushy consistency to give the digestive system a break. It’s easier to digest so some of the nutrients may be absorbed better.


Increase the fiber in your puppy’s food to help absorb the excess water to create a more solid stool. Add plain pumpkin (not pie filling) a half teaspoon at a time and monitor the results. Within a day or two you should notice an improvement.


Make sure your puppy gets plenty of water. Give him bone broth for added nutrients.
Slowly return your puppy to solid food. Give him minimal solids to allow his digestive system to heal.


Start rebuilding your puppy’s gut health with a natural probiotic food like fermented veggies. It’s best to wait to add supplements until he’s older.

2 Warnings About Puppy Diarrhea

Puppies are growing and building an immune system, so they need special care. Here’s what you need to know.

Dehydration is a serious concern. All that watery poop removes liquids from his system so you need to be sure your puppy gets plenty to drink. In some cases he may need subcutaneous fluids, which your vet can provide you to give at home.


Never fast a puppy under 7 months of age. Feed him small meals of bland, mushy food with lots of liquid.

When To See Your Vet For Puppy Diarrhea

When diarrhea goes on for more than a day or two, and gets worse rather than better, it’s time to contact your vet. Here are some serious symptoms to watch for.

Bloody diarrhea or other signs of parvo as noted earlier


Loss of appetite


Not drinking enough water


Pale or dry, tacky gums


Vomiting
Reduced or no urination


Tarry and black stool


Change in disposition


Lethargy or weakness


Obvious discomfort or pain (you may hear your puppy whining)


Lack of movement that can suggest pain


Diarrhea for more than a day or two, or that gets worse


Getting into something toxic or swallowing an non-edible object

Most cases of diarrhea in puppies can be easily managed. But watch for anything out of the ordinary in your puppy’s activity and demeanor. It could be a sign that there’s a more serious problem than a simple case of diet-relate diarrhea.

Joanne Keenan
2022-07-19

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