How to Introduce Dogs

Whether you’re introducing your dog to a new play friend or canine family member, or bringing a cat or a new baby home, you’ll need some patience and careful planning. 

Here are a few helpful tips and tricks to make the introductions go smoothly. 

How To Introduce Dogs To Each Other

Introducing dogs to each other is usually quite easy as long as they’re both well-socialized and used to interacting with other dogs. Some sociable dogs will meet other dogs and instantly start playing, while others may need more time to warm up to each other.

The steps below may involve more caution than you need for dogs who are used to meeting others in their neighborhood, so adjust your approach as appropriate. 

  1. Pick a neutral spot, like a park with plenty of space to roam, or even the backyard of a neighbor who doesn’t have a dog. You’ll need a handler for each dog. 
  2. With both dogs still on leash, let them see each other from a distance, or even from different sides of a fence.
  3. Watch for body language showing relaxed postures and tail wagging, and be alert for signs of tension like hard stares, standing tall, stiff bodies and tails, hard pricked ears … or even raised hackles or bared teeth. If you notice any tension or discomfort, move the dogs further away from each other. Praise and reward the dogs only when they give each other relaxed attention.
  4. Once they’re calm and relaxed, move them closer. If you’re in a large enough area, you can walk them in the same direction … keeping enough distance for them to stay relaxed and get used to each other.
  5. Next, it’s time for them to say hello. It’s often best to do this off-leash. You can leave the leashes attached, but drop them so you can grab them in case of a problem. This allows them the freedom to move away if they want, and avoids tension caused by the handler tightening on the leash.
  6. Don’t force interaction. If either of them isn’t interested, let him walk away and give him more time to warm up to the other dog.
  7. Keep sessions short at first, and keep watching their body language. You may see relaxed sniffing or a play bow … and they may start to play together. 
  8. If either dog seems uncomfortable, move them away from each other. If they seem happy and playful, you can gradually increase their time together. 

Just keep in mind that every pup has his own personality, and not all dogs will get along. So don’t rush the process. If one dog is uncomfortable or reactive, it’s best to get expert help.  

RELATED: How to stop dog humping …

How To Introduce Dogs On Leash

If you prefer to introduce dogs to each other completely on leash, that can work too.

  1. Again, start out on neutral territory as explained earlier.
  2. If you can, walk both dogs on opposite sides of a wide path, allowing them to see each other from a distance. If they both seem comfortable, you can gradually reduce the distance between them. 
  3. When it’s time for the dogs to meet, keep the leashes loose and avoid letting them pull towards each other. Again, watch their body language closely and be prepared to separate them if needed. 

Remember that your dog is sensitive to your response, so try to keep calm during the introduction. Always reward your dog’s calm behavior with praise and treats. 

Note: People also ask how to introduce dogs when one is aggressive. That’s a separate and much more complex topic, but in most cases it’s best to get professional help.

How To Introduce A New Puppy To Your Dog

Bringing a new puppy home is an exciting time. But it may be less exciting for your adult dog, especially if he’s used to being the “only child.”

  1. If you take your adult dog with you to pick up the puppy, make sure they travel separately in the car on the way home – in separate crates or different parts of the car. 
  2. When you get home, start by introducing them outside, on leash.
  3. Walk them around the yard together, then let the two dogs sniff each other. 
  4. As they start to interact, watch for body language like your adult dog raising his hackles or baring his teeth. If your dog shows these signs of discomfort around your puppy, you may need to take things slower. 
  5. If your dog growls at the puppy, don’t scold or punish him. That’s how dogs communicate they don’t like something, and it will teach your puppy that he’s crossed a line and may have annoyed his “big brother.” 
  6. However well they get along, give your adult dog gets breaks from the puppy so the youngster doesn’t pester him when he’s resting.

Even though puppies need a bit of extra attention, try give both dogs equal time to help prevent jealousy. Take the dogs on walks together so they get used to activities with each other. Give them supervised playtime together, but make sure both your adult and the puppy have their own separate space to rest and relax. Crate training your puppy from the start is a really good strategy.

Even if all goes smoothly, you’ll want to keep a close eye on them for up to a few weeks after the introduction, and separate them when they’re home alone.

RELATED: 5 tips for raising a puppy …

How To Introduce A Dog To A Cat

What if you decide to add a feline friend to your household, or you already have a cat and bring a new dog home? The good news is that with some patience and careful planning, your dog and cat can become best buds … or at least learn to coexist in peace!

  1. Keep your dog and cat separate for a few days, and make sure they each have their own private space (for example, your cat could stay in a bedroom where she has food, water, toys and a litter box).
  2. Give each of them time to roam the rest of the house alone so they don’t have to interact right away. 
  3. Next, let your pets sniff each other’s belongings, toys or bedding to get to know each other’s scent. You can keep some cat toys or blankets in your dog’s area, and vice versa. This can take up to a few days or even a week, but it’s an important and helpful step.
  4. Once they’re comfortable with each other’s smell, you can start feeding them either side of a closed door. 
  5. If they’re comfortable doing that, move on to a supervised introduction through a gate or screen door where they can see and sniff each other.
  6. When they meet face to face, choose a neutral location that neither pet has claimed as their territory. Keep your dog on a leash so you can control him around your cat, and use treats to reward calm behavior in both pets. Make sure to intervene and move your dog away if he starts to get too excited.
  7. Do this for a short time each day until they get used to each other, rewarding both with especially yummy treats. 

Remember, patience is key. Some dogs and cats may become fast friends, while others may take weeks or even months to get along. Supervise them at all times and never leave them alone together until you’re absolutely certain they’re happy and relaxed around each other. Try not to let your dog chase your cat, or he may be tempted to repeat that fun activity! 

How To Introduce A Dog To A Baby

Introducing a dog to a baby might seem daunting, but don’t worry, with patience and supervision, it’s totally doable. Even the most well-behaved dog may need time to adjust to the presence of a new baby.

  1. Before bringing the baby home, allow your dog to explore your baby’s sleeping area or room, and reward and praise him as he looks around.
  2. After your baby’s birth, let your dog get familiar with the baby’s scent before the actual introduction, by letting him sniff baby clothes or toys. 
  3. Then you can progress to letting him sniff or watch the baby through crib bars or a baby gate. Let him get used to doing this calmly before you progress to a direct introduction, 
  4. When it’s time for the actual introduction, keep your dog on a leash so you can remove him if necessary.
  5. Allow your dog to approach the baby gradually while using treats and praise for calm and gentle behavior. Pay close attention to your dog’s reactions and if he shows anxiety or over-excitement, calmly walk him away. 

 Make sure you’re relaxed too … if you’re anxious, your dog will pick up on that.

Never leave your dog unsupervised with your baby or small child, and teach your dog to be gentle and calm around your baby.  Make sure your dog keeps his usual walk, play, exercise and meal routines, to help reduce stress from the new arrival. 

Take it slow and adjust your approach as needed. If you need some extra help, don’t hesitate to call a professional for advice.

Bottom Line | How To Introduce Dogs

Introducing dogs can be a time-consuming process, but with patience and careful planning, you can make it a smooth one!

Article by Julia Henriques

Don’t Trust Pet Food Lable Ingredient’s

Whether through carelessness or deceit, what’s on the pet food labels may not be what’s in the food. 

Way back in the last century (1999), I worked full-time as an animal rights activist. We were trying to find out whether rumors were true that there were dogs – euthanized at shelters – in dog food. The laboratories I consulted said that heat processing destroyed DNA. There was no way to test for it.

As it turned out, a method existed, but it was new, and not in wide use. In 1993, the development of the PCR (polymerase chain reaction) won the Nobel Prize. PCR is a fast, accurate way to identify specific genetic material in a sample. 

PCR became a powerful tool for detecting DNA in processed pet foods. Researchers began comparing the known DNA of various species to a sample from a bag or can of pet food. Now they could determine what species actually were ­­– and were not – present in the product. 

Let’s Test Some Pet Foods!

Researchers in Taiwan were among the first to publish their findings using this new technology on pet food. They bought several products, each claiming only one protein (1). Cattle, pig, goat and chicken DNA were found in all of them.

Pet foods can go awry by either containing proteins that are not listed on the label, or not containing proteins that are claimed on the label. The first situation is common; but the second is unusual. Quite a few studies on pet food have been published using PCR (and other methods of detection), with very disturbing results.

Here are results from testing of American-made products:

  • A 2011 study found three out of four venison dry dog foods tested positive for soy and one for beef. Neither soy nor beef appeared on the labels (2).
  • In 2014, research found that three of four OTC foods claiming “no soy” on the label did in fact contain soy. Four of seven veterinary diets intended for diet elimination trials contained soy protein (3).
  • Of 52 pet foods and treats tested for the DNA of various animal species, almost 40% were mislabeled. A canned dog food that claimed to contain “deboned beef and beef broth” contained no beef at all, only pork. Chicken and pork were the most common unlisted species. Six foods did not list chicken on the label, but five of them contained chicken anyway. A popular dog treat supposedly made with bacon and beef contained only chicken—no beef, and no bacon (4). Out of all 52 samples, 51 contained chicken, regardless of the label. 
  • In 2016, researchers were comparing different detection methods. They used foods from several countries, including the US. The findings were startling. “Significant disparities were evident between the labelled contents and the detected content of animal by-products” (5).
  • Of fourteen vegetarian and vegan diets tested, there was mammal DNA in half of them (6).
  • A 2018 analysis found that half of the foods they tested were mislabeled. Unexpected added ingredients were more frequently detected than those missing from the label (7).
  • A study in 2018 found that more than half of tested foods were mislabeled. Most contained unlisted animal ingredients. But some were missing ingredients that were listed on the label (8).
  • A study done in Italy that included brands imported from the US found that 13 out of 14 brands included at least one mislabeled product. Dry foods were more likely than wet foods to contain unlabeled species (9).
  • Twenty-one dog foods with “novel” or “limited” ingredients were analyzed. All of them contained unlabeled species (cow, pig, goat, and bison) (10).
  • A 2021 study looked at new ways to test for mercury in pet foods. Along the way, they also analyzed the DNA in a few samples. One food listed beef, wild boar, goat, and lamb; but the sample contained chicken, turkey, and fish – no beef, boar, goat or lamb. Another sample claimed only tuna and salmon, but contained chicken,  sheep, and turkey. Plant ingredients fared no better. A food proclaiming “no soy” contained – you guessed it! – soy. A food listing field peas and chickpeas contained neither. But it did contain flax, oats, and rice (11).

What PCR And WGS Reveal

New technology has taken the issue to new heights. Whole-genome sequencing (WGS) can determine dozens of species of plant or animal in a food product. In this brave new world, pet food fares even worse than before.

  • PCR can detect DNA from known species. That is, the pet food could be compared against a set of DNA samples from chickens or cows because we already had DNA markers for those animals.
  • WGS sequences all the DNA in the pet food itself. This can then be matched with known sequences of a much broader variety of species. 

In a 2023 study, the researchers had to make many adjustments. WGS had not been used on such a complex product before. Earlier work used purified combinations of just a few ingredients. The researchers’ ingredient “library” was incomplete. Artificial samples were used in some cases. They found that WGS could not quantify the amount of each ingredient as they hoped. The raw sample of  tofu used for the soy genome was contaminated with wheat, presumably during production. Raw rice contained traces of DNA from cattle, chicken, deer, salmon, and sheep, acquired at some point prior to purchase. So, while this first study is far from definitive, it shows that the problems with commercial pet food are serious and widespread. (9)

WGS is a very promising technology. And with it, dog foods fail again. Six tested dog foods contained chicken, although two specifically claimed not to. Wheat was also found in all samples, even though five of them were declared gluten-free. And most troubling of all, two samples were positive for dog DNA. Obviously, there should not be dogs in dog food! And so we’ve come full circle, back to the rumors that started it all. 

At the very least, pet food suppliers and manufacturers are unconscionably careless in producing the food that the vast majority of dogs eat. 

Pet Food Problems Are Global

It’s tempting to disparage American pet food makers. Recalls due to manufacturer and supplier errors are common. Our pets get sick, and sometimes they die. Inadequate thiamine and excessive vitamin D continue to cause many recalls. One vitamin D recall is ongoing and expanding even as I write this!

Taurine deficiency has also made a few headlines. It causes heart disease in certain breeds of dogs. (Recent claims by FDA about grain-free diets were wrong; there is no connection.) Lack of taurine also killed tens of thousands of cats from the same heart condition in the 1980s. All the foods involved claimed to be “complete and balanced,” according to the standards at the time. (New standards were published in 2007, but the studies they’re based on are more than 20 years old.)

The sad fact is that studies done elsewhere have found similar results. Europe, Thailand, and Brazil boast many pet food factories, and recalls happen there, too (we just don’t hear about them).  Of course, the big US companies also ship all over the world. In one report, a veterinary diet for cats claimed chicken and chicken liver on the label, but there was zero chicken in the product. The US manufacturer says its exports are identical to the food it sells in the US.  (12)

So, dry and canned commercial foods have problems. No surprise there! But what about raw? They’re more careful, right?

Only one study has looked at this issue in commercial raw diets. More than 60% of tested foods contained unlabeled species. Lamb was the most common unlabeled meat in raw dog foods (13).

The Pet Food Industry And Its Regulators 

So, what was the response from AAFCO? None of the committee members had anything to say, but audience members did. An FDA bigwig opined that the problem was the suppliers. He said they must be mixing up ingredients or labels or something. This answer seemed satisfactory to most folks. 

As a long-time advisor to AAFCO on behalf of animal welfare groups, I requested time to make a presentation at their 2015 annual meeting. There, I explained the research (only 5 studies at that time) showing that unlabeled proteins may be in the food. That’s a serious problem for many food allergic pets. They can be so itchy that they will scratch themselves raw.

Dogs With Allergies
Diagnosing allergies is not easy. Blood, hair, and skin tests are notoriously inaccurate. A strict elimination diet is the best way to test for food allergy. The diet should contain a different protein and carbohydrate than the pet’s usual food. If your dog has been eating a food with chicken and corn, you could select one with lamb and rice, or beef and barley. Many companies make diets with “novel” or “hypoallergenic” or “limited” or “hydrolyzed” ingredients. Their labels,  websites, and marketing materials imply that their food would be helpful for allergic pets. 

Yet DNA analysis proves that most of those foods contain unlisted proteins. Remember that analysis of 52 foods? Five of the six foods without chicken on the label did contain chicken. None of them will help a chicken-allergic dog. The dog keeps scratching, but neither the veterinarian nor their client knows why. A positive test due to an unlabeled protein could eliminate a diet that might otherwise be ideal (13).

Interestingly, the renderers stayed silent. Rendering is a very secretive industry. Dry pet foods rely heavily on rendered ingredients (meat and bone meal, poultry meal, lamb meal, etc.). Independent renderers accept raw materials from any source. They know how and why so much contamination occurs. Insiders say that, while it is easy to separate streams of materials right from the beginning of the process, renderers simply don’t bother. The philosophy appears to be: “grind it up, spit it out, and slap any old label on it.”

I suggested that the meat industry might want to “clean up its act.” The audience booed! They didn’t want to hear it. They didn’t want to discuss it. But mostly they didn’t want to do anything about it. FDA, state officials, manufacturers and suppliers have yet to take any action. Further studies show the problem is only getting worse.

I’ve worked with these people – regulators, manufacturers, suppliers – for more than twenty years. We generally have very congenial working relationships. But apparently I poked a very grumpy bear with my remarks!

More Excuses – From Nutrition Vets

I’m also a member of the American Academy of Veterinary Nutrition,which has an email bulletin board. I posted about this issue and asked, “What’s going on here?” I got very few responses, but one really surprised me. This expert blamed the problem on “cross-contamination.”

For example, she said, in a warehouse there could be a big pile of chicken meal next to a big pile of pork meal. Air currents could blow a little chicken into the pork, or vice versa. PCR is such a very sensitive test. PCR could be detecting the tiniest morsel that drifted from one pile to another! In fact, there is a lower limit of detection for PCR, and it is extremely unlikely that a few flakes of pork meal drifting to the pile of chicken meal would meet that threshold.

Another suggestion made slightly more sense. The cookers, extruders, dryers, and other machinery are supposed to be thoroughly cleaned between runs. That is, a batch of chicken dog food shouldn’t be run after a batch of salmon dog food without thorough cleaning in between. But if the cleaning isn’t done, or isn’t done well, those pesky PCR tests might pick up some residue left behind. The same goes for the trucks and railcars that deliver ingredients. Who wants to spend time and soap and water washing those out? 

Makers of “veterinary” diets need extreme care because their formulations are precise. They are generally much better about ingredient purity and cleanliness than OTC foods. But remember, four out of seven veterinary diets still contained detectable levels of contamination.

Now, we needn’t discuss open piles of ingredients sitting in a huge warehouse. We don’t have to consider how those bulk ingredients would be scooped from that pile by a front-end loader. Nor must we imagine how easily the contents of the loader escape as it trundles around the factory.

The problems are quite obvious! But that’s how it is in the pet food industry. Don’t expect that any changes or improvements will be made. They won’t be.

Where Are The Missing Ingredients?

But it’s not just ingredients flying from pile to pile. It’s the flip side. How is it that a product could contain ZERO of what it claims on the label? Not even those who work for that particular company said a word. But I got told off by the list moderator for naming names – in a group where almost everyone works for a pet food company! 

We know that suppliers sometimes cheat. The 2007 melamine recalls are a vivid memory for many of us; it was a scheme to make more money. Just a few years ago, one company paid for chicken meal but received inferior chicken by-product meal. Chicken meal and chicken by-product meal look very much alike. All meat meals do, in fact. They come from the renderer as dry brown, slightly greasy powders. Chicken and turkey yield a lighter brown powder compared to beef, but that’s really the only observable difference. They look, feel, and smell pretty much alike. 

But wouldn’t you think that a big, multi-national company should have better quality controls than making bacon-flavored treats out of chicken? Is “Oops, our bad,” the best they can do?

How Picky Is PCR?

The labs I talked to in 1999 weren’t far wrong when they said DNA can’t be detected in cooked products. Heat does degrade DNA. Detecting species-specific DNA means that enough of it remained intact to find. Once found, the DNA has to go through purification before PCR is even run, and then there are filtering and other processes beyond that (11).

In general applications, PCR has a sensitivity (lowest limit of detection) between five and 20 mg/kg. To make it more accurate requires additional dilutions. That requires more materials, more time and, of course, more money. 

Most of the pet food studies have therefore been qualitative, not quantitative. The DNA is there, or it isn’t. 

Human medicine is where accuracy becomes crucial. The trigger for severe allergies is 10 parts per million (ppm) of the allergen. For us non-metric folks, that’s 0.00016 ounces (0.001 teaspoon) per pound. A test that can detect five to 20 ppm of an allergen doesn’t seem so unreasonable now, does it? (14) Reports of unlabeled species imply a real potential to cause allergic reactions.

Disrespectful And Dangerous!

The cavalier attitude of the pet food industry is just plain disrespectful to all the people who buy their products. But it goes further than just potential allergens. There are many ethical and religious prohibitions against certain animal products, like pork, seafood, or beef. Many families keep a kosher, halal, or vegan home. How would they feel to learn that pork is a common contaminant of dog food, or that there are animal products in their vegan pet food? The pet food industry clearly does not care. 

Another potential problem deserves a mention. Young children in the crawling to toddling stage tend to put things in their mouths. What if a child has a severe allergy to a pet food ingredient? Or worse, to a contaminant? One little girl who commonly ate kibbles from the cat’s bowl developed a severe – and ultimately fatal – reaction to penicillin. When the cat food was tested, it contained 600 times the maximum allowable level for human food. But livestock condemned for human consumption due to excessive drug residues can go straight into pet food. 

How Is This Okay?

It’s not. Mislabeling a product is adulteration and/or misbranding. Adulteration means there’s something there that shouldn’t be, like chunks of plastic, rodent feces, excessive pesticide residues, or antibiotics. Misbranding violates the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, enacted in 1938 and amended many times since. The Act applies to both human and animal food. Mislabeling also violates other federal and state laws. The label on the package must accurately reflect what is in the package. 

Such carelessness also violates “good manufacturing practices” under federal law (CFR 21). Title 21 is the basis for many state laws as well as the AAFCO model regulations. The FDA Compliance Guidelines for this section require preventive controls for known hazards.

Now, an itchy dog may not strike a supplier of pet food ingredients as a hazard. But it’s estimated that up to 25% of all allergic skin diseases in dogs are due to food allergy. When I was in vet school, that number was only about 10%. The uncaring attitude of the industry no doubt has played a role in the increase of food allergies.

The questionable cleanliness of equipment may also violate HARCP (Hazard Analysis and Risk-based Preventive Controls). It’s the current basis for the management of food safety. HARCP replaced the old HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points), which was more strict. It covers everything from raw materials to finished products. But HARCP is simply “the fox guarding the henhouse.” HARCP leaves producers to create their own safety protocol – then use it to govern themselves. 

What Does This Mean For Your Dog?

Food allergies are of great concern in humans, affecting up to 10% of the population. For some substances, even 10 parts per million (ppm, or 10 mg/kg) is enough to cause a fatal allergic reaction. But even less could still cause major problems for your dog, who eats the same food every day. One veterinary researcher commented that “even small amounts of allergens may lead to a cumulative reaction.”

A review looked at all the evidence up till 2018. The conclusion was harsh. Up to 80% of dry, canned, limited-antigen, raw, and plant-based diets may contain unlabeled species (8). Those are pretty terrible odds, but the reality is likely even worse! The whole-genome sequencing study is very disheartening, suggesting that contamination is common, perhaps universal.  

According to all these trials, novel-ingredient or single-protein diets likely contain unlisted proteins. Even if one bag of one food works to begin with, the next bag may be more contaminated. Additionally, many allergic dogs go on to develop new allergies over time. When the label fails to accurately state what is in the food, you and your dog will be the biggest losers.

The issue of pet food quality and purity impacts the entire industry. It’s time for us pet owners to get serious about our dogs’ well-being, because the pet food makers aren’t interested. I like to think that there are small, perhaps local companies who are doing a good job and have our pets’ best interests at heart. But to compete at a national level requires compromises – big ones, it seems. 

Homemade Is Safer!

The only reliable solution for a safe, healthy diet – particularly an elimination diet – is homemade dog food.  If you haven’t made dog food at home before, it can seem daunting. But once you get the hang of it, it goes quite smoothly. (Learn how to make homemade dog food.)

You make the food from ingredients you buy fresh at the store. That’s the only way can you know for sure what in the food. You’d need to apply the same high standards to any supplements. But in most cases, you can skip supplements for at least a few weeks to make the food as pure as can be.

A true allergy elimination protocol lasts for eight to twelve weeks, but you’ll be a pro by then. It’ll be great to watch your dog’s symptoms disappear. 

But the benefits of a balanced and lovingly prepared home-made diet are not just for food-allergic dogs. When you transition to a homemade diet, your dog will be happier, less anxious, and more energetic – in fact he’ll be back to the normal loving dog he was as a puppy! 

Article by Jean Hofve DVM

Feeding your Puppy or Dog

Congratulations on welcoming a furry bundle of joy into your life! Now that you have a playful and adorable puppy by your side, it’s important to ensure your pup is getting the right nourishment. 

That’s why in this article we’ll answer the all-important question: how much to feed a puppy. 

From the appropriate portion sizes based on weight and age to the frequency of meals, we’ve got you covered.

How Often to Feed a Puppy

Feeding your puppy is like embarking on a culinary adventure, where you get to nourish him and witness his growth. It’s exciting! But there are some rules of thumb you’ll want to keep in mind when dishing out your puppy portion sizes. 

First of all, if you’re used to feeding adult dogs, it’s important to know that puppies have different needs. Their small stomachs and high energy levels require smaller, more frequent meals throughout the day. 

This means you’ll most likely be treating your puppy to three to four meals a day until he reaches around four to six months of age. As he grows older and his stomach capacity increases, you can gradually reduce the frequency to 2-3 meals a day.

Breed Matters

We’ll cover how much to feed a puppy in just a second. But first, you need to know that several factors determine your puppy’s portion size, including ….

  • Weight
  • Age
  • Breed

We’ll give you the scoop on age and weight below, but let’s touch on breed first.

Different dog breeds have different growth rates and metabolic rates, which can affect their dietary needs. 

For example, smaller breeds may require more calories per pound of body weight compared to larger breeds. So, if you have a tiny Chihuahua or a cute little Dachshund, he might need a bit more fuel to keep his energetic tail wagging.

Giant breed puppies also have special needs. Calcium deficiency or excess calcium can both lead to bone problems for growing giant dogs. Make sure you feed a diet formulated to support puppy growth, not an adult diet.  

So when we cover how much to feed a puppy by weight … or how much to feed a puppy by age in the next sections … remember that these are general guidelines. You’ll want to double check that they’re in line with your puppy’s breed. 

How Much To Feed A Puppy by Weight

Puppies, just like human babies, go through growth spurts, and their weight can change rapidly. So it’s important to weigh your pup regularly and keep track of his progress. 

Commercial Or Pre-Made Dog Food

If you’re feeding any kind of commercial dog food, whether kibble, canned, dehydrated, freeze-dried or raw, puppy food packaging usually gives some guidelines based on average weights. 

This is a good place to start, but remember that every puppy is unique, and you pup’s growth rate may be different from others. So you’ll need to watch your puppy’s body condition, and cut back or increase his portion size if he starts to look a bit chubby or skinny. 

Also, keep in mind that packaged foods vary greatly in nutritional density, especially if you compare kibble or canned foods to whole food raw or cooked diets. 

RELATED: Find the top 10 puppy foods …

Homemade Raw Or Cooked Puppy Food

If you’re feeding a homemade raw or cooked diet, a good guideline is that you should feed your puppy about 2-3% of his expected adult body weight. Or, if you’re not sure about his adult weight, feed about 10% of his current weight. Again, adjust the amounts if your puppy gains or loses weight. 

How Much to Feed a Puppy by Age

Feeding by weight is a little more accurate, but it’s also helpful to use your pup’s age as a helpful guideline for how much to feed. 

Puppyhood is a time of rapid growth and development, so nutritional needs will vary from month to month. If you’re feeding a commercial or pre-made diet, follow the package instructions to start, and adjust as needed depending on your puppy’s body condition.

If you’re feeding a homemade raw or cooked diet, follow the same weight guideline. Give 2-3% of your puppy’s expected adult weight, or 10% of his current weight. Again, adjust as needed if your puppy gains too much weight or seems underweight. 

How Much to Feed a 2 Month Old Puppy

  • At two months old, puppies are still developing their digestive systems and require smaller, frequent meals. 
  • Aim to feed four times a day, focusing on high-quality, natural puppy food designed to support your puppy’s growth.

How Much to Feed a 3 Month Old Puppy

  • By three months, your puppy’s stomach capacity increases, allowing for larger meals. 
  • You can begin transitioning to three meals a day, adjusting the portion sizes accordingly.

How Much to Feed a 4 Month Old Puppy

  • At four months old, most puppies can be fed three times a day. 
  • It’s important to monitor their weight and adjust the portion sizes as needed to maintain a healthy growth rate.

How Much to Feed a 5 Month Old Puppy

  • As your puppy reaches five months, you can continue with three meals a day while monitoring his weight, body condition, and overall energy levels.
  • Again, adjustments may be necessary based on individual needs.

How Much to Feed a 6 Month Old Puppy

  • By six months, your pup is becoming more like a young adult dog. 
  • At this point, most puppies can transition to two meals a day.
  • Some larger breeds may still benefit from three meals to support their growth and energy requirements.

Keep in mind your puppy’s body condition is more important than any rule about how much to feed. Adjust your puppy’s meal sizes based on his individual metabolism and body type, remembering that nutritional requirements vary from dog to dog.

Final Cautions

You’ve got some great rules of thumb for how much to feed your puppy, and how often. 

As your pup grows, here are a few final things you’ll want to keep in mind:

Monitor Your Puppy’s Body Condition
The guidelines mentioned above are a helpful starting point, but it’s important to monitor your puppy’s body condition regularly. 

Remember that your pup should have a defined waistline when viewed from above, and you should be able to feel his ribs with a slight covering of flesh. 

If you notice your puppy becoming overweight or underweight, adjust portion sizes accordingly.

Remember To Include Treats
Treats are a fun and rewarding way to bond with your puppy, and they’re a great way to train. But they’re also technically part of your pup’s overall daily calorie intake. 

Treats should be given in moderation and accounted for in your dog’s daily food portion sizes. 

Transitioning to Adult Dog Food
As your puppy grows, his nutritional needs will change. For most puppies, it’s important to gradually transition them to a suitable adult dog food around the age of one year, or as recommended by your holistic vet.  

And finally … don’t forget to savor these puppy moments! Enjoy the mealtime wiggles and nourish your little companion with the love he deserves. You’ve got this!

Article by Joanne Keenan

Training your Dog to the Litter Box

Can Dogs Use Litter Boxes?

Yes, dogs can indeed use litter boxes. 

We typically associate litter boxes with cats, but dogs are incredibly adaptable creatures and can be trained to use a litter box as well. It’s a common misconception that litter boxes are exclusively for cats.

So yes … with a little patience and training, your dog can become a litter box pro!

But as you might expect, there are a few things you need to know before your dog starts using a litter box regularly. Things like location, litter material, indoor vs outdoor litter boxes for dogs, and much more. But don’t worry – we’ll walk you through all of these things now. 

RELATED: What your dog’s poop can tell you …

Litter Box Training A Dog: Pros And Cons

First of all, before you go “full litter box” let’s weigh the pros and cons of litter box training for dogs. 

Perhaps the biggest advantage is the convenience factor. A dog litter box means no more midnight walks in the pouring rain or rushing home from work to let your dog out. With a litter box, your pup can relieve herself indoors whenever she wants, saving you time and energy. Litter box training can be beneficial for older dogs or those with mobility issues who struggle with frequent trips outdoors.

But what about the drawbacks? First of all, dogs naturally prefer to eliminate in open spaces. So some dogs may find it confusing  to transition from outdoor potty habits to an enclosed litter box. There’s also the issue of odor control. Proper maintenance and regular cleaning of the litter box are crucial to keep the area fresh and prevent any unwanted smells from permeating your home.

Bottom line: Some of the free time you gain from no more rainy day walks or late night potty sessions will be spent cleaning and maintaining your dog’s litter box. Weigh the pros and cons and your own preferences to make sure you’re choosing wisely!

Outdoor Dog Litter Box Vs Indoor Dog Litter Box

When it comes to dog litter boxes there’s another choice you have to make: outdoor or indoor.

Let’s break down the differences between the two now:

Outdoor Dog Litter Box

The biggest advantage of an outdoor dog litter box is that it taps into your dog’s natural instinct to pee and poop outside. With an outdoor litter box, you allow her to fulfill this innate behavior in a familiar environment. 

Plus, cleaning up after your furry friend becomes a breeze with an outdoor box. No more awkward scooping sessions inside your home or wandering around your yard looking for poop piles! You can easily remove the waste from the outdoor litter box.

Lastly, with the vast space of the outdoors, any lingering smells from your dog’s potty activities are less likely to build up and bother you and your neighbors.

The one drawback is that space constraints can limit the availability and convenience of this option. If you live in an apartment or lack a suitable outdoor space, an outdoor litter box may just not be feasible. It may work if you live in an apartment with an outdoor balcony or terrace. 

Indoor Dog Litter Box

What about indoor dog litter boxes? Well, they’re a practical all-weather solution. Regardless of rain, snow, or scorching heat, your pup can comfortably relieve herself indoors. This is particularly beneficial if you live in an area with extreme weather conditions, or you’re in a high rise apartment building that takes time to get in and out of,

Convenience and accessibility are other key advantages of the indoor litter box. Living in an apartment or having limited outdoor space doesn’t have to be a barrier to potty training. An indoor litter box provides a convenient solution, as it can be easily placed inside your home, making it accessible for your dog whenever nature calls.

While odor can be an issue, many indoor dog litter boxes come with filters or odor-absorbing litter, ensuring that your living space remains fresh and clean.

Indoor litter boxes can also be game-changers for older dogs with mobility issues. They’re a safe and accessible way to reduce the strain of frequent trips outdoors. So they’re worth considering if you have a senior dog or a dog with special needs who can’t navigate stairs or get in and out of the house easily.

Indoor litter boxes are also popular with owners of toy or miniature breeds, especially if they’re not the outdoorsy type or don’t like bad weather. 

Just remember that transitioning from outdoor potty habits to using an enclosed litter box indoors may pose challenges for some dogs. Dogs are creatures of habit, and it may take time and patience before they adjust to their new routine. Consistent training and positive reinforcement are crucial during the transition period.

How To Start Litter Box Training A Dog

Ready to embark on the litter box training journey with your pup? 

Here are some steps to get you started:

  1. Select the Right Litter Box: Make sure to choose a litter box that suits your dog’s size and breed. Consider her comfort and accessibility when making your selection.
  2. Opt for a Natural Litter Option: Opt for natural materials like paper pellets, wood shavings, or grass mats. These choices provide a natural and environmentally friendly solution. Steer clear of clumping or scented litter as these can potentially lead to health issues for your pup.
  3. Introduce the Litter Box: Place the litter box in a designated area where your dog feels comfortable. Allow her to explore it at her own pace, sniffing and investigating the box.
  4. Encourage Positive Associations: Use positive reinforcement techniques to create a positive association with the litter box. Reward your dog with treats or praise when she approaches or interacts with the box.
  5. Potty Training Basics: Just like with any potty training method, consistency and patience are key. Monitor your dog’s behavior closely, and when you notice signs that she needs to go, guide her to the litter box and encourage her to use it. If she successfully eliminates in the litter box, offer enthusiastic praise and rewards to reinforce the behavior.
  6. Gradual Transition: If your dog is accustomed to pottying outdoors, it may take some time for her to adjust to using a litter box. Gradually reduce the outdoor potty breaks and increase the litter box usage. Be patient and understanding during this transition period.
  7. Maintain Cleanliness: Dogs are naturally clean animals, and they prefer a clean bathroom area. Scoop the litter box daily to remove waste and regularly replace the litter to keep it fresh. This will help make your dog comfortable using the litter box.

The Best Litter Boxes For Dogs: What To Look For 

You’re clear on the pros and cons of litter boxes for dogs, and you know how to train a dog to use a litter box. The next logical question is, what’s the best litter box for dogs? 

Well, there are a few key factors to consider…

Here’s what to look for in the best dog litter boxes:

  • Durability: Dogs can be quite enthusiastic when using their litter box, so opt for a sturdy and durable design that can withstand their paws and movements.
  • Accessibility: Consider the entry and exit points of the litter box. It should be easy for your dog to enter and exit without any obstacles or discomfort.
  • Odor Control: Look for litter boxes with effective odor control features, such as built-in filters or odor-absorbing litter. This will help keep your home smelling fresh and clean. Again, don’t use scented or artificial chemical litters as they can potentially cause health issues.
  • Ease of Cleaning: Choose a litter box that’s easy for you to clean and maintain. Removable liners or trays can make your life much easier.
  • Personal Preferences: Consider your personal preferences as well. Do you prefer a litter box that blends seamlessly with your home decor? Are you looking for an eco-friendly option? Take these factors into account when making your final decision.

No matter what dog litter box you decide on, remember that patience and consistency are key when introducing your dog to a litter box. 

With a little training and some positive reinforcement, your furry friend will be using her litter box like a pro in no time …  so say goodbye to those rainy walks and embrace the convenience of dog litter boxes!

Article by Julia Henriques

Best Probiotics For Dogs

Few other supplements can have such a large impact on the immune system and health as probiotics for dogs. Gut bacteria play a large role in health and disease, so it’s important to support your dog’s microbiome by using the best probiotics for dogs at the right times.

There are many types of probiotics and in combination they provide a world of benefits for your dog. 

But first, let’s start with the microbiome.

What Is The Microbiome?

Bacteria live in all parts of your dog’s digestive tract. There are just a few that live in the stomach … but as you travel down the intestines, the numbers of bacteria increase. But by far the greatest number of bacteria live in your dog’s colon. 

The complex community of bacteria and other microorganisms in your dog’s gut is called the microbiome. These bacteria all function together and they work just like any other organ. In fact, scientists call the microbiome “the forgotten organ.” Each microbiome is unique to each dog, just like a fingerprint. That’s because every dog is exposed to a unique environment and diet.

What Are Probiotics?

Probiotics for dogs are live organisms that provide health benefits. These good bacteria are found in your dog’s gut, in fermented foods and in supplements. Certain yeast species are also considered probiotic.

Are Probiotics Good For Dogs?

Yes, they are! Beneficial bacteria have a few key jobs in your dog’s body. They help:

  • Promote overall dog gut health
  • Digest food
  • Produce key vitamins (including vitamin K and B vitamins)
  • Produce serotonin and influence mood
  • Reduce the gut pH
  • Crowd out harmful bacteria
  • Produce enzymes
  • Produce fatty acids that discourage the growth of harmful bacteria
  • Support the immune system

How Probiotics Support The Immune System

Bacteria like to live in your dog’s gut because they eat the same foods he does (or more exactly, they ferment food). Bacteria especially love to eat fiber because your dog can’t digest it. When bacteria eat fiber, they “poop out” short chain fatty acids (SCFAs). So probiotics for dogs are a great way to get more healthy SCFAs into your dog. The three main SCFAs are:

  • Acetate
  • Proprionate
  • Butyrate

Short chain fatty acids either remain in your dog’s colon or they travel into your dog’s body. Either way, they play a critical role in your dog’s health and immunity. They can:

  • Feed friendly bacteria and discourage the growth of harmful bacteria
  • Crowd out harmful bacteria, viruses and fungi
  • Help form the protective mucus layer in the gut 
  • Act as an important barrier to cancer-causing toxins, drugs, heavy metals and allergens
  • Keep the cells lining the gut close together (they prevent leaky gut)
  • Reduce glucose levels, which protects against metabolic disease and obesity
  • Build important T-cells in the immune system, which helps reduce chronic inflammation.
  • Protect against food allergens
  • Help the body absorb calcium, magnesium, iron and other nutrients
  • Produce key vitamins (including vitamin K and B vitamins)
  • Reduce the gut pH
  • Produce enzymes
  • Produce serotonin and influence mood

Since 80% of your dog’s immune system is in his gut, bacteria are critical to your dog’s health. Specifically, a diverse and well-populated bacteria population is critical to your dog’s health.

Other Health Benefits Of Probiotics For Dogs

The little bacteria and organisms that live in your dog are so important to his health that they outnumber his own cells 95 to 1! Most dogs can definitely benefit from probiotics. But there are a wide variety of health issues that can be helped by probiotics:

Small changes to the species of bacteria living in your dog’s gut can have a noticeable impact on their host. The above diseases are all linked to shifts in the bacterial populations in your dog’s microbiome.

If your dog has a lot of diverse bacteria in his gut, these shifts are less significant. Large bacteria populations mean bacterial shifts will have a smaller impact on your dog’s health. But bacterial shifts happen all the time. Bacteria shifts can be caused by:

RELATED:  Find out how probiotics benefit your dog’s dental health … 

Best Prebiotic And Probiotic For Dogs

Despite their importance to your dog’s health, there’s one thing probiotics can’t do: they can’t live without food.

The beneficial bacteria in probiotics are living entities that need to eat. That’s where prebiotics come in. Prebiotics are soluble, indigestible fiber that feed probiotics.

Without prebiotics, probiotics will be less active, less effective and can eventually die off. But if the probiotics are well-fed, they’ll grow and encourage new colonies of friendly bacteria to populate your dog’s gut … and soon they’ll start to crowd out the harmful bacteria. So its the probiotics that can make it or break it when choosing the best probiotic for your dog.

Believe it or not, many probiotic supplements don’t contain any prebiotics. So your dog will essentially just poop them out. Make sure the jar states it contains prebiotics or that it lists prebiotic foods in the ingredients. Foods like dandelion root, burdock root, larch arabinogalactian (from the larch tree) or inulin (from chicory) are some of the additions you’ll want to look for.

Or you can feed foods like garlic, bananas, apples, cooked mushrooms, Jerusalem artichoke, chicory root or asparagus to make sure you get the benefits of pre and probiotics for dogs.

RELATED: Read more detail about prebiotics for dogs …

Now let’s look at 3 types of probiotics and how their individual qualities can help your dog. 

3 Best Probiotics For Dogs

These are the best researched and most effective types of probiotics for dogs.  

1. Lactic Acid Probiotics

The vast majority of probiotics for dogs are lactic acid bacteria, usually made from fermented milk. You’ll see their strain names on the supplement label, along with the species name. The Bifidobacterium and Lactobacillus species are often shown as B. Or L. So you might see B. Longum or L. acidophilus. 

Lactobacillus species convert milk sugar to lactic acid, which inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria in the intestine. Like Lactobacillus, Bifidobacterium species produce lactic acid but they’re not considered a lactic acid bacteria. Bifidobacterium live in the colon and can interact with immune cells. They can crowd out harmful bacteria and help support the immune system. Low numbers of Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium have been linked to anxiety.

Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium probiotics are pretty fragile and they typically only last about 24 hours before they’re eliminated from the gut. But even though they’re unlikely to colonize, their DNA remains and they can still offer many health benefits. Overall, they’re useful probiotics for dogs with diarrhea.

Individual lactic acid probiotic strains include:

Lactobacillus AcidophilusThis is the tried and true bacteria found in most probiotics. It’s well researched in dogs and can increase Lactobacillus populations in the gut and reduce the populations of harmful clostridia. It also has a favorable effect on immune cells.

Lactobacillus CaseiThis probiotic lives in the mucus membrane of animals. It’s an important part of the gut-brain axis and can affect mood and emotions.

Lactobacillus Plantarum And Lactobacillus RhamnosusThese probiotics have been studied in dogs and have been shown to have a much better survival rate. They help build healthy colon walls in dogs with IBS and can decrease antibiotic-related diarrhea. Low levels of Lactobacillus rhamnosus have been linked to anxiety in dogs.

Bifidobacterium AnimalisThis probiotic has been found to be helpful for managing acute diarrhea in dogs.

Bifidobacterium LongumThis probiotic has been studied in dogs and is another one that works on the gut-brain axis. A study done by Purina found that larger numbers of Bifidobacterium longum can reduce signs of stress in dogs. B. longum can also help with diarrhea and food allergies.

Enterococcus FaeciumEnterococci are another lactic acid bacteria that inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria in the gut. This probiotic does a better job of surviving the acidity of the dog’s gut than most Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium species. While this probiotic is healthy for dogs, scientists are worried it can cause antibiotic-resistant enterococcal infections in humans. But it’s definitely beneficial for dogs and is a well-researched addition to canine probiotics.

Pediococcus AcidilacticiP. acidilactici is another lactic acid bacteria that’s showing a lot of promise in canine studies. It’s been successfully used to manage skin conditions and leaky guts.

Lactobacillus reuteri

Lactobacillus reuteri is native to the dog’s intestinal tract and has shown to inhibit bacterial growth like Salmonella. It’s been beneficial for dogs suffering from digestive disorders, including acute diarrhea and irritable bowel syndrome. It enhances gut health, reduces inflammation, and supports immune function.

2. Probiotic Yeast

Saccharomyces boulardiiis a healthy yeast that’s in the category of probiotics for dogs. Saccharomyces boulardii is used to treat acute and chronic diarrhea in humans … and a recent trial in dogs showed the same benefits. S. boulardii has also been successfully used to treat Candida and yeast. S. boulardii also helps with digestive issues caused by chronic inflammation … it can alter cell signaling pathways in the immune system.

What’s unique about S. boulardii is that it can’t be killed by antibiotics. It can be taken at the same time as antibiotic use to help protect the beneficial gut bacteria and prevent antibiotic-related diarrhea. So this is one of the best probiotics for dogs on antibiotics.

3. Spore Forming Probiotics

Unlike Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, the Bacilli strains of probiotics are spore-forming. These bacteria can form a hard coating that protects them from heat, stomach acids and most antibiotics. In fact, many antibiotics are made from soil based probiotics for this reason.

Bacilli are also called soil based probiotics for dogs because they’re commonly found in soil and water. The most common strains used include:

Bacillus CoagulansB. coagulans is a lactic acid producing bacteria, meaning it can crowd out unfriendly bacteria. Bacillus coagulans is also anti-inflammatory and can have a marked effect on inflammatory digestive diseases, which makes it a good probiotic for dogs with diarrhea. And a 2016 study also shows that it improved rheumatoid arthritis in rats. 

Bacillus IndicusB. indicus is a unique probiotic … it produces large amounts of carotenoids. These are the yellow and orange pigments in plants. Carotenoids are powerful antioxidants. B. Indicus also produces B vitamins, vitamin K2 and quinols. This is an advantage for dogs with EPI and those needing digestive enzymes.

Bacillus SubtilisB. Subtilis is an inhabitant in the guts of healthy dogs. It was used to treat urinary tract infections before antibiotics were developed. Like B. coagulans, B. subtilis has a strong influence on the immune system. It helps produce IgA, an antibody that’s often low in dogs with autoimmune disease. IgA bolsters the gut lining and also produces vitamin K.

Many Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterum probiotics are made from dairy, but S. boulardii and spore-forming probiotics aren’t. This makes them some of the best probiotics for dogs with allergies, especially dairy allergies.

For specific health concerns, some types and strains of probiotics have properties that offer better results than others. 

What Type Of Probiotic Is Best For Dogs?

As already discussed there are many types of probiotics and various strains with specific qualities and benefits. But when you choose probiotics for dogs, the type you use really depends on his individual health and needs.

Best Probiotics For Dogs On Antibiotics

A 2018 study found that giving Lactobacillus probiotics after antibiotic use caused a delay in the microbiome’s recovery. And the recovery was less complete compared to the group where no probiotics were given. 

The best probiotics to help restore your dog’s microbiome after antibiotics are S. boulardii and soil based probiotics (Bacillus subtiliis and Bacillus coagulans). They survive antibiotic use so you can give them at the same time to help protect the gut bacteria and prevent antibiotic-related diarrhea.  

Best Probiotic For Dogs With Diarrhea

If your dog has diarrhea, then a high CFU (colony forming units … more about this in the next section) lactic acid probiotic should help within a few days. Some studies show that probiotics can cut the recovery time roughly in half. It’s best to continue the probiotics for a few weeks, to help resolve the underlying gut issues. 

If your dog has chronic diarrhea or a digestive disorder, then a good multi-strain probiotic given with gut-soothing herbs is a good choice. In this case, you’ll want to keep your dog on the probiotics long-term or until the diarrhea completely resolves. 

Best Probiotic For Dogs With Allergies

Probiotics can be a way to help with your dog’s allergies. Probiotic bacteria can help reduce bad bacteria in your dog’s gut to help reduce inflammation and autoimmune responses. And you can give probiotics for itchy dogs. There have been a number of studies done showing probiotics reduce allergy symptoms, and you can give probiotics for itchy dogs. In some cases probiotics help remove the symptoms. 

Soil based probiotics are more resilient than standard probiotics as they’re more likely to survive the trip through your dog’s gut so you only need 1 to 5 billion CFU.

If you use a Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium product, you want to make sure that the probiotics have:

  • More than one strain of bacteria
  • At least 30 billion CFU

The easiest way to give your dog probiotics for allergy relief (or any condition) is with supplements. You should be able to find the strain and number of CFU listed on the label of the probiotic. Don’t buy a probiotic that doesn’t disclose these details.

Best Natural Probiotic For Dogs

If you prefer to add probiotic foods to your dog’s diet, here are some to try … but a few have some drawbacks.

Green Tripe

Tripe is the stomach lining of grazing animals like cows. Green means it has not been processed or treated. Raw green tripe is an excellent source of probiotics and digestive enzymes for your dog. It has living cultures of Lactobacillus acidophilus and amino acids.  

Kefir

Kefir is made from milk fermented with kefir grains. It has the benefit that it can be made with cow, goat, coconut or rice milk, so you can choose a non-dairy product. Kefir grains are strains of lactic acid bacteria that contain many species and strains of bacteria, vitamins, proteins and yeast.

Probiotic Yogurt

Yogurt is fermented milk made with the bacteria species Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus bulgaricus. There are a few problems with using yogurt as a probiotic. First, dairy products can cause inflammation and immune issues in dogs. Second, most yogurt contains very few probiotics. And most yogurt is high in sugar, which can cause unwanted changes to the gut flora.

Fermented Foods
Fermented foods like chaga, kefir, sauerkraut, kombucha and kimchi can be a healthy part of your dog’s diet. You can make them yourself as homemade probiotics for dogs. What’s unique about fermented foods is their high prebiotic content. Prebiotics aren’t particular about the species of bacteria they feed, so fermented foods can potentially feed harmful bacteria and yeast. Fermented foods can also be a problem for dogs with SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth) and yeast infections, so use in moderation and with caution.

How To Choose A Probiotic Supplement For Dogs

You can give your dog a human probiotic or a probiotic powder for dogs … just make sure it doesn’t have fillers, and use the information that follows to help you choose what you need. 

Probiotic brands should guarantee the amount of colony forming units (CFU). This is a unit of measure to determine the number of bacterial cells in a probiotic supplement. Many of these little soldiers will die off as they work so you want to ensure you have high amounts like 6 or 10 billion CFUs, or higher. Vet recommended probiotics for dogs should meet these requirements as well. Despite clever marketing, probiotic yogurt for dogs, or even people, might not list CFUs so you know they’re minimal.  

In your search for probiotics you’ll find there are various products such as a probiotic chew for dogs, liquid probiotics for dogs, probiotic paste for dogs and probiotic bites for dogs. You want to check ingredient labels to make sure they aren’t filled with inactive, non-essential ingredients like starches and sugars.

How To Dose Probiotics For Dogs

The amount of probiotic you give your dog depends on the type of probiotic you choose. For the lactic acid bacteria, you’ll want to look for a supplement with several strains. Most studies on probiotics use a mix of strains because results with single strains aren’t as good. 

Because lactic acid bacteria are easily destroyed in the gut, you will need a product with a large number of CFU. You’ll usually want to see at least 10 billion CFU for any live probiotics to survive in your dog’s gut. This is fine for healthy dogs, but if your dog has digestive or immune problems, then look for about 25-50 billion CFU for a medium to large sized dog. 

Saccharomyces boulardii is much hardier than the dairy based probiotics, so a smaller amount can be given. In general, you can give a half billion to 5 billion CFU.

If you’re considering a spore forming dog probiotic, you can also use a smaller amount of CFU because they easily survive the gut acidity. Look for about 1 billion CFU. 

Is it OK to give my dog probiotics daily?

Most dogs would do well with a daily probiotic, especially dogs eating kibble or a high starch diet. However, dogs with small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO) or dogs with excessive gas should not take probiotics daily.

What do vets say about probiotics for dogs?

Most vets are fine with giving dogs probiotics and many even sell them in their own clinics. They will usually just want you to give your dog a probiotic with well researched strains.

Do Probiotics Have Side Effects?

For the most part, probiotics for dogs are a completely safe supplement that have numerous safety studies. The most frequent side effects are digestive upset, gas and bloating.

The more frequently found issue with probiotics is that they don’t work. SIBO is one condition where probiotics for dogs might not be the best approach to health:

Small Intestinal Bacteria Overgrowth (SIBO)

Most of your dog’s bacteria are meant to live in his colon. Small Intestinal Bacterial Overgrowth (SIBO) happens when abnormally large numbers of bacteria take up residence in the small intestine. These bacteria can interfere with digestion and nutrient absorption in the small intestine. It’s estimated that about 80% of people with chronic digestive issues actually have SIBO. And the number in dogs might be just as high. 

Because SIBO is an overgrowth of bacteria, giving your dog probiotics will be like adding fuel to the fire … depending on the probiotic. So if your dog’s symptoms get worse with probiotics, it could be a sign he has SIBO.

Spore forming (soil based) bacteria are a better choice if you suspect your dog has SIBO. These probiotics have a protective coating that allows them to stay in their spore state until their environment is safe. This allows them to pass through the small intestine and colonize in the colon. 

RELATED: How to naturally manage SIBO in dogs … 

How Long Should Dogs Be On Probiotics?

If your dog has diarrhea, then a high CFU lactic acid probiotic should help within a few days. But it’s best to continue the probiotics for a few weeks, to help resolve the underlying gut issues. 

If your dog has chronic diarrhea or a digestive disorder, then a good multi-strain probiotic with gut-soothing herbs is a good choice. In this case, you’ll want to keep your dog on the probiotics long-term or until the diarrhea completely resolves. 

If you’re giving probiotics for dogs as part of a preventative health plan, then you can give them most days. Soil based probiotics are typically a better choice for everyday probiotics since they are less likely to cause SIBO. 

You can easily bolster your dog’s health with easy-to-use probiotics. And they can be an important addition to his diet, especially if he’s ever had antibiotics or drugs, if he’s ever eaten cooked or processed food or if he suffers from allergies, digestive upset or many other common immune-related health issues.

Article by Dana Scott

How Much Exercise Dose My Dog Need

Every dog needs exercise, and most don’t get anywhere near the amount they need, based on skyrocketing canine obesity rates and a growing epidemic of dogs with difficult-to-manage behaviors such as over excitement, aggression, and destruction of property.

I often remind pet parents that “A tired dog is a good dog,” and while this may seem an overly simplistic concept, when you consider the evolution of domesticated canines, it makes perfect sense.

Your dog’s ancestors and wild cousins spend all their time hunting their next meal, defending their turf, playing, mating, and caring for litters of pups. Their daily lives are extremely active and social, challenging them both physically and mentally. When you compare the life of a canine in the wild with the one in your home, you get a sense of just how out of condition and bored silly many family dogs are today.

Also remember that dogs can be compared, developmentally speaking, to human toddlers, and there’s a reason toddler parents plan their lives around keeping their little ones busy and burning off excess energy. Like the average healthy 3-year-old kiddo, your doggo needs opportunities throughout the day to be physically active and mentally stimulated.

With that said, is it any wonder that dogs left alone for hours are wildly over excited when their human (or any human) comes through the door at the end of the day? Common undesirable behaviors in under-exercised, under-stimulated dogs include:

  • Inappropriate chewing
  • Rowdiness, jumping up on people
  • Destructive scratching, digging
  • Inappropriate predatory play
  • Dumpster (trash can) diving
  • Mouthiness, rough play
  • Heightened reactivity, hyperactivity
  • Attention-getting behaviors

How Dogs Benefit From the Right Amount of Exercise

There are countless benefits in keeping your canine companion well-exercised, including:

  • Keeping his weight in an optimal range
  • Reducing or eliminating common boredom-induced behavior problems
  • Building confidence and trust in a fearful or shy dog
  • Improving his ability to be a calm, balanced individual (remember: “A tired dog is a good dog”)
  • Maintaining his musculoskeletal system (skeleton, muscles, cartilage, tendons, ligaments, joints, and other connective tissue) in excellent condition
  • Normalizing and regulating his digestive system

How Much Daily Exercise Does My Dog Need?

First of all, it’s really important not to assume that a fenced yard provides all the exercise your dog needs. I’ve had more than my share of owners of obese dogs tell me their pet is getting loads of exercise because they have a big backyard. Studies show that when your dog has no other dogs around and no humans encouraging him to be active, he’ll spend 80% of his time snoozing.

Dogs who have other dogs around for company spend a little less time resting — about 60%. The bottom line: like us, our dogs need reasons to get physically active. Even the biggest, greenest backyard isn’t by itself enough to motivate your dog to get the exercise she needs to stay in good physical and mental (behavioral) condition.

The best and really the only way to make sure she gets moving is to provide her with the companionship and motivation she needs to stay active. If she doesn’t get regular opportunities to run, play and exercise aerobically, even if she’s not overweight, she can end up with arthritis and other debilitating conditions that affect her bones, joints, muscles, and internal organs. Her behavior will suffer as well without regular physical and mental stimulation.

Your dog should be getting an absolute minimum of 20 minutes of sustained heart-thumping exercise 3 times a week. Thirty minutes or an hour is better than 20, and 6 or 7 days a week is better than 3.

Minimum exercise requirements prevent muscle atrophy, but don’t necessarily build muscle mass, strengthen tendons and ligaments, hone balance and proprioception, or enhance cardiovascular fitness, which is why more is always better. If you can provide your dog daily walks as well as additional daily training sessions to meet your other exercise goals (lose weight, build muscle, improve heart function), even better!

Some dog parents believe if they do lots of weekend activities with their pet they can make up for lack of exercise on weekdays. But the problem with this approach is that you can actually create injury to your dog by encouraging him to be a weekends-only athlete.

When a dog’s body isn’t well conditioned, sudden bursts of activity can cause injuries that lead to long-term joint damage. Consistent daily exercise is a much safer approach and has profound long-term health benefits you don’t want your dog to miss.

Ideas for Keeping Your Dog Active

It’s important to note that simply strolling with your dog isn’t an adequate workout. If walking is your thing, your dog needs sessions of power walking — moving at a pace of 4 to 4.5 miles an hour (about a 15-minute mile) to achieve good cardiovascular intensity and caloric burn.

These more intense walks can provide important health benefits not only for your dog, but also for you, including lowering your risk of obesity, diabetes, heart disease and joint disease. First, though, you must reprogram your furry walking partner if he’s accustomed to sniff-piddle-dawdle walks. Don’t expect to make a one-day transition from leisurely strolls to power walking. It will take several sessions for him to catch on.

Of course, you’ll also be taking your dog on casual walks, so you’ll need to help him learn to distinguish between the two. It could be a time-of-day thing — for example, you could schedule slower walks for first thing in the morning and again before bedtime, and workout walks in between. Or you could develop a verbal cue that tells your pet it’s time for a power walk.

I also highly recommend using a harness when exercising rigorously with your dog. A leash attached to his collar can quickly become a health hazard as you’re cruising city streets or even country roads. Many dogs learn which walk they’re going on by whether the leash gets attached to their collar (short walk) or a harness (time to break a sweat!).

If you aren’t able to move at a power walk pace, consider involving your dog in other types of cardiovascular exercise like swimming, fetch, Frisbee, agility competition, flyball, flying disc, flygility, dock jumping, herding, hunt and field trials, or musical freestyle.

Dogplay is an excellent resource for exploring organized exercise and socialization possibilities for your dog. You might also consider a bike ride alongside your dog using a special bike leash.

It’s important to match the type of exercise you choose to your dog’s body type (for example, brachycephalic breeds have special considerations), temperament (dog-aggressive dogs have special considerations), and age (older animals or those with permanent physical disabilities have special considera­tions). The type, duration, and intensity of exercise you choose for your pet will very likely need to be adjusted over time.

Article by Dr. Karen Becker

Natural Remedies for healing your dog

Natural First Aid Kit

Click here to shop Natural First Aid Kit options.

Pets and children have a way of finding trouble when you are least prepared. Having some supplies on hand may help avoid emergency veterinary visits or buy time to get the pet to the hospital for treatment.

First Aid and CPR

First aid and Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation courses are available for pet owners both in-person and online. They are offered through the Red Cross and many private groups. The Red Cross has a free mobile application/app that provides veterinary as well as everyday pet care.

First Aid Kit Ingredients

When making your own first aid kit for home or travel, there are many homeopathic and herbal remedies that can be included.

Toxin ingestion 

  • In case of accidental ingestion of something you suspect may be toxic, it is best to call a poison control center to determine whether the pet needs veterinary care and whether inducing vomiting is recommended. Options include the United States ASPCA Poison Control Center, which is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. The phone number is (888) 426-4435. Another option is the Pet Poison Hotline, which is also open 24/7. The phone number is (855) 764-7661. Their website has an alphabetical listing of potential toxins for quick reference. Check resources within your country if you live outside the United States.         
  • If the poison control center recommends inducing vomiting, hydrogen peroxide 3% solution works well for most pets. Hydrogen peroxide is an irritant to the pet’s intestinal tract and typically works within 10 to 15 minutes, recovering about 50 percent of the ingested contents of the stomach. The vomiting can last for up to 45 minutes. The recommended dose is 1 teaspoon per ten pounds body weight. This dose can be repeated if the pet does not vomit within fifteen minutes.
  • Inducing vomiting can be dangerous in brachycephalic (short-faced) breeds because of concerns of causing aspiration pneumonia, so be sure to check with your veterinarian first. Do not induce vomiting if your pet is lethargic or comatose or if he is having seizures. If your pet ingested something more than two hours prior, it may be too late to get him to vomit it up.

Sprains, strains, and muscle aches 

  • Homeopathic arnica30C can be given orally every few hours immediately after the injury.
  • Moldable cold packs can also be placed over inflamed muscles or joints for ten minutes two to three times daily for the first 48 hours.
  • After 48 hours change to warm packs to increase circulation and healing to the area.
  • Herbal remedies are available; one of my favorites is Dog Gone Pain which can be used for cats or dogs.

Cuts, scrapes, wounds, and hot spots

  • Virgin organic coconut oil or Manuka honey act as natural antibacterial agents that will prevent infection. Colloidal silver can be very effective at decreasing inflammation and preventing infection. Aloe vera gel or an herbal ointment will soothe and help heal wounds. Hotspot Relief Balms containing a combination of coconut oil, Manuka honey, aloe, and herbs are also available. Compresses of warm green, black, or chamomile tea can help decrease swelling. French green clay products can help dry moist wounds.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is not recommended for use on wounds, as it does not distinguish between good and bad cells within the wound. It kills everything, including the white blood cells that ward off infection, which slows down healing, making the wound stay open longer, which can lead to more infections.
  • Another commonly used product for cleaning wounds is rubbing alcohol. While it is true that alcohol can work to minimize germ activity within the wound surface, it will also burn the skin immediately. Skin cells can be damaged, and the process is painful for your pet.
  • The first choice for cleaning a wound should be thorough flushing of water or saline over the injury to initially minimize infection. This will provide moisture and help cleanse the injury without risk of cell damage. Saline, when made correctly, has the same makeup as body tissue and is gentle on vital healing cells. Daily flushing will remove bacteria, pus, and dead cells.
  • To make a saline solution for your dog or cat, add ½ teaspoon of sea salt to one cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve; use when cool. Make a fresh solution each time you need it.

For wounds that are bleeding 

  • Powdered goldenseal or yarrow are very effective, along with topical powders made for humans.
  • Witch hazel also works to constrict blood vessels and is a good disinfectant for the wound.
  • In a pinch, cornstarch or regular flour will work well. If bleeding is excessive, contact your veterinarian.

Insect and spider bites 

  • These can cause allergic reactions that may be life-threatening. Facial swelling or swelling of the ears may be the first sign that an allergic reaction is occurring.
  • Severe reaction may result in coughing, wheezing, vomiting, diarrhea, or collapse. Symptoms typically occur within 30 to 60 minutes after the sting, however, in rare situations they can occur hours afterward, so it is important to keep a close eye on your pet all day.
  • If your pet received a single sting somewhere on the body other than the mouth or muzzle and is not displaying any concerning signs, it is safe to monitor and care for their symptoms at home.
  • Ice packs can be applied at the site of the sting and witch hazel is effective at decreasing pain when applied topically.
  • A natural anti-inflammatory and antihistamine such as quercetin can be given orally. The dose is 5 to 10 mg per pound of body weight given twice daily one hour before or three hours after meals.
  • One dose of the homeopathic Apis 30C may also be given.
  • If you notice any concerning signs or if your pet was stung multiple times or has had a bad reaction to a sting previously, you should take him to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Antihistamines are often prescribed for pets with a known history of allergic reactions; some may require steroids as well.

For simple gastrointestinal upset 

  • Ginger, catnip, or chamomile tea, ginger cookies, or slippery elm can help decrease nausea. These can also be used prior to transportation if your pet suffers from motion sickness.
  • For loose stools, bentonite clay and slippery elm can be very effective, along with a bland diet.
  • If there is any blood in the vomit or stool, consult your veterinarian. Vomiting or diarrhea that is profuse or lasts more than one day warrants a veterinary visit.

For mild cough 

  • One quarter teaspoon per ten pounds body weight of Manuka honey (local honey will also work) or coconut oil given orally will soothe the mucous linings of the respiratory tract.
  • Cool steam humidifiers or allowing the pet to rest in the bathroom with the shower running to create steam can help loosen secretions and decrease coughing.

Mild ear inflammation 

  • There are several products containing a mixture of witch hazel and aloe vera along with herbs thatdo a great job decreasing inflammation and infection.
  • Fill the ear canal, massage the base of the ear, wiping away any debris and liquid that can be seen in the canal using a cotton ball.
  • Do not use cotton swabs deep in the ear canal, as the tissue is very delicate and may be harmed by the abrasive action.
  • Do not use water, hydrogen peroxide, or alcohol in the ears. Water and hydrogen peroxide will leave moisture in the ears that leads to more infection. Alcohol is painful if there is any ulceration in the ear canal.
  • Consult your veterinarian is the infection is chronic or the ear is painful.

Seizures or agitation 

  • CBD oil can be helpful to calm an anxious or agitated pet. It has been used successfully for many pets that suffer with seizures.
  • If a seizure lasts more than one minute the pet should be taken to an emergency service.
  • Any pet that has seizures should be evaluated by their primary care veterinarian to determine the cause of the seizures. Protect pets from falling down the stairs or off furniture during a seizure.
  • Homeopathic products can be used to reduce anxiety.
  • Flower essences have been very effective for many anxious pets.
  • Lavender essential oil sprays can help.

Other supplies to keep on hand include 

Hopefully, you will never be faced with a severe accident or injury with your pet. Being prepared with simple first aid supplies may help you avoid an expensive trip to the emergency hospital. Pets with any symptoms that do not clear quickly should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

Article by Dr. Judy Morgan

Dog Training, Pray Drive

Prey drive varies hugely in individual dogs. While some dogs naturally have a low prey drive, others simply cannot resist chasing every moving thing around them.

It goes without saying that this can be extremely difficult to deal with…

Fortunately, you don’t need to worry too much. By putting some time and effort into training your pooch, you will soon be able to get that prey drive under control.

STEP 1: KEEP YOUR DOG ON A LEASH

It may be tempting to un-clip that leash so that your dog can have a good run, but this is something that you need to avoid doing until you have managed to gain some control over your dog’s prey drive.

Keeping your dog on a leash gives you much more control to begin with. You should also make sure that your dog does not have any access at all to prey animals.

Each time your dog chases an animal, this reinforces the behavior. This means that your dog will be even more likely to do the same thing again in the future.

By putting a stop to this right away, you will notice results from your training much faster.

STEP 2: REDIRECTION

Redirecting your dog’s attention is one of the most important strategies to learn when trying to control prey drive.

What exactly is redirection?

It means being able to shift your dog’s attention away from the prey and onto yourself. It is much easier to do this before your dog fixates on the prey, or very soon after. If you wait too long, it will be difficult to break your dog’s focus.

So, how do you redirect?

Each time you notice a prey animal in the distance, simply go in the other direction. Keep things positive, rewarding your dog for following you.

What happens if you have no choice but to go in the same direction as the prey animal?

Make sure you have a squeaky toy or a high value treat to hand. Use this to distract your dog, making sure that you only pass by the animal once your dog is fully focused on you. Once you have made it past, you can then reward your dog with the treat or toy.

Ideally, you should work on redirecting from a distance. Once your dog understands that it is more rewarding to stay focused on you rather than the prey animal, you can then shorten this distance and practice this at a closer range.

STEP 3: BE AWARE OF YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE

As mentioned above, you will have much more success at controlling that prey drive if you catch it in its early stages.

There are five main stages to prey drive:

i) Searching for the animal

ii) Stalking the animal with the eyes

iii) Chasing the animal

iv) Grabbing the animal

v) Biting to kill the animal

Ideally, you want to get yourself involved at the very first stage, before your dog manages to latch his eyes onto the prey. This means that you will need to continuously be looking around you, so that you can spot any prey animals before your dog does.

You will notice your dog’s eyes scanning the environment when the two of you are out. Keep interrupting this, encouraging your dog to focus on you instead. Make sure that you reward him heavily each time he does.

If your dog’s ears have pricked up, and his eyes are focused on something in the distance, then this means he has moved on to the eye stalking stage. You will need to tighten your hold on your dog’s leash and work even harder on redirection.

STEP 4: KEEP YOUR DOG MENTALLY STIMULATED

Many people think that if they exercise their dog enough, their prey drive will be reduced.

However, physical activity alone is not enough to help with this…

Instead, you need a good mix of both physical and mental stimulation.

When it comes to mental stimulation, nose work is always beneficial. Even hiding treats around your house or garden, or providing a sandbox for your pooch to dig in, can help to tire that brain out. There are plenty of other mental games out there too, especially if you get creative.

You should also be opting for plenty of variety when it comes to physical stimulation, in addition to walks. Try taking your dog swimming or hiking uphill, as these are great forms of exercise. Keeping the physical activities varied will mean that your dog gains mental benefits from them too.

STEP 5: WORK ON YOUR DOG’S IMPULSE CONTROL

How to manage yeast infections in dogs

Yeast dermatitis is a common issue in dogs that can be frustrating to treat. But don’t worry … there are home remedies for a yeast infection in dogs that can help solve this common cause of itchy skin. What to feed when a dog has a yeast infection is an important part of this, so let’s take a closer look at yeast in dogs.

What Is A Yeast Infection In Dogs?

Yeast is a fungus that lives in your dog’s intestines in small numbers. It’s a normal inhabitant of your dog’s digestive tract and it helps him digest his food. But when yeast is allowed to overgrow, your dog will start to suffer from what’s essentially a fungal infection. Two species of yeast in particular can be a significant problem for your dog … Candida albicans and Malassezia.

What Causes Yeast Infections In Dogs?

Yeast is normally held in check by friendly bacteria in your dog’s gut. They compete with Candida for food and attachment sites … and this keeps the yeast numbers down. But if yeast is allowed to grow out of control, it can irritate the cells lining your dog’s gut. Normally, these cells have tight junctions between them. This stops harmful bacteria, viruses and yeast from entering the blood stream from the intestines. 

But yeast overgrowth will cause inflammation … and this causes the space between the cells lining the intestines to widen. When this happens, yeast and toxic byproducts can exit the digestive tract and enter your dog’s blood. This is called leaky gut.

If there’s leaky gut present, it can complicate the symptoms of yeast infection … many of the symptoms overlap. But yeast infection has a few key signs you’ll want to look for:

Yeast Infection In Dogs Symptoms

There are a few telltale signs that will help you figure out whether your dog has a yeast infection, leaky gut or allergies. One of the key signs is changeability … yeast can change with shifts in pH or temperature.

Here are other signs of yeast infection in dogs you’ll want to look for:

  • Chewing or licking the feet
  • Dark rusty-red hair between the toes
  • Black skin (often with hair loss)
  • Bad smell and greasy hair (seborrhea)
  • Ear infections or head shaking
  • Speckles on the underbelly
  • Hair loss on the tail and upper back
  • Grayish or rust color around the genitals
  • Diarrhea
  • Seasonal allergies
  • Secondary bacterial infection

It’s important to know these signs … because the longer your dog’s yeast infection goes untreated, the harder it will be to resolve.

If your dog has more than one of these signs, it might be time to treat the yeast. Here are the 4 steps you need to take to stop your dog’s yeast overgrowth.

How To Treat Dog Yeast Infection: Home Remedy For Yeast Infection In Dogs

Fortunately, treatment for yeast infection in dogs can be done, 

you can manage many cases of yeast at home. This can address most types of problems like  yeast infection in dog paws or a skin yeast infection in dogs … as the underlying cause is the same.  An effective dog yeast infection home remedy for yeast infection in dogs just requires a change of diet and some lifestyle changes. 

There are four simple steps you need to follow:

Step 1: Stop Feeding The Yeast

Yeast has two different forms … which makes it a dimorphic organism. And the conditions the yeast lives in can change it from one form to another. When yeast is benign, it’s a single celled organism that lives fairly peacefully alongside bacteria. In this form, it doesn’t pose much harm to your dog. But sometimes yeast is allowed to grow out of control. This happens when there aren’t enough gut bacteria to compete with it. This can happen after antibiotic use, but there are other common causes (and we’ll talk about that in a bit).

When yeast doesn’t have to compete with other organisms for resources, it becomes a super yeast! It changes from a single cell structure to a larger and more complex multi-cellular fungus. When this happens, the yeast needs more and more food … and it gobbles everything up around it. This aggressive super-yeast releases over 60 different toxins that can travel anywhere in the body. These toxins irritate the gut lining and cause leaky gut. The yeast can then escape through the holes in the digestive tract and travel to your dog’s organs.

So the first step to stop yeast infections is to stop feeding it! There are two common ways you can unknowingly feed unwanted dog yeast infection:

Yeast Loves Starch and Sugar
Yeast has a silver bullet … it loves to eat sugar! So if you remove carbs and sugar from your dog’s diet, you can start to starve the yeast. Carbohydrates are complex chains made up of sugars. When your dog eats them, her body converts them into sugars and this feeds her yeast. Take a slice of bread (which is mainly carbohydrate), bite off a piece and hold it in your mouth for half a minute. You’ll notice that it starts to taste sweet. That’s because the amylase in your saliva is breaking that starch down into sugar. The same thing happens in your dog’s gut … and that sugar feeds the yeast living there.

In the wild, the foods your dog’s ancestors ate (as well as the foods that our human ancestors ate), contained only about 4% starch. But most commercial pet foods have over ten times that amount! Even grain-free foods are usually full of potatoes, sweet potatoes or tapioca and have just as much starch as other kibbles. Sources of carbs and sugars in pet foods include:

  • Rice
  • Millet
  • Potatoes and sweet potatoes
  • Wheat and corn
  • Oats
  • Peas

This is why a raw diet is best for yeast infection in dogs. It doesn’t have the large amount of carbohydrate that commercial foods contain. So if your dog is eating kibble today, you’ll need to switch him to a raw diet or a cooked diet that doesn’t use grains. And if you feed your dog fruits, limit it to berries: they are lower in sugar content.

Yeast Loves Heavy Metals
You might not know it, but yeast has a special affinity for heavy metals … especially mercury. Some metals have important functions in the body … like iron and zinc. As long as they’re only present in small amounts. But large amounts of metals like arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead and mercury can be toxic to your dog. 

Heavy metals generate harmful free radicals, which can damage cell membranes and cause serious health issues. In humans, it can cause Parkinson’s diseases, Alzheimer’s disease and even cancer (1). This damage is called oxidative stress and it builds up like rust in the body. Heavy metals are so toxic, they can even change your dog’s proteins and DNA. Your dog’s immune system doesn’t do a good job of removing heavy metals. So heavy metals stay in your dog’s body, build up over time, and start causing health problems.

Heavy metals can get into your dog in several ways:

  • Vaccinations
  • Industrial waste
  • Pesticides
  • Poor quality water
  • Fish
  • Pet foods

Research shows that detoxing the body from heavy metals can help prevent kidney disease, heart disease and neurological diseases. So there are really compelling reasons to get heavy metals out of your dog. But if your dog suffers from a yeast infection, there’s another important reason …

Yeast loves to gobble up heavy metals. Researchers are actually looking at yeast as a solution to soak up environmental heavy metals. The fact that yeast binds to heavy metals is good news for the environment … but less so for your dog. Researchers are investigating how yeast interacts with heavy metals in the intestines. And it looks like Candida and other yeasts bind to heavy metals in the intestines. This is good news … yeast grabs the heavy metals before they enter the body. But heavy metals are toxic to the beneficial bacteria that also live in the gut. As the mercury and other heavy metals kill off the competing bacteria, the yeast has less competition … and can grow out of control.

So if you want to kill a dog yeast infection, you have to reduce the number of heavy metals. Here are some things that will help:

  • Avoid vaccinations whenever possible
  • Don’t give your dog fluoridated water
  • Avoid feeding fish and low-quality fish oil
  • Feed organic food when you can (glyphosate is loaded with heavy metals)

Once you limit the heavy metals going into your dog, you can start working on removing them.

A Note About Yeast-Die-Off
As yeast start to die, they can release a toxic substance called acetaldehyde. Acetaldehyde is the byproduct from digesting alcohol and it’s thought to be the toxin that causes hangovers. Yeast also produces a toxin called gliotoxin that can harm your dog’s liver. So your dog can get hangover-like symptoms from yeast die-off.

The heavy metals the yeast holds are toxic to your dog … and if the yeast is killed quickly, the heavy metals will be released into your dog’s circulation. This is often mistaken for yeast die-off … and it can cause the same flu-like symptoms in your dog. You might see nausea, diarrhea, joint pain or just a general sickness as your dog detoxifies from the heavy metals the yeast releases. This is called the Herxheimer Reaction … and it usually lasts from a few days to a few weeks.

The symptoms of yeast die-off can include:

  • Diarrhea
  • Worsening of symptoms
  • Discharge from eyes, nose, skin and ears.
  • Joint soreness

These symptoms should only last a few days to a few weeks … then your dog should start looking and feeling much better. If you suspect the Herxheimer reaction is happening, there are two things you can do to help:

1. Give digestive enzymes: They can help quickly digest and eliminate dead yeast cells.
2. Give humic/fulvic acid, bentonite clay and chlorella: They can help bind to heavy metals.

Step 2: Destroy The Yeast Biofilm

Yeast cells have a protective shell made up of several layers. This tough outer shell is called a biofilm and it’s what makes yeast tough to kill. Once this protective biofilm is stripped off, the yeast no longer has a safe house to protect it from the immune system. Digestive enzymes are special proteins that help your dog digest his food. They’re also the enemy of yeast … they can digest yeast’s biofilm. And while yeast can build up immunity to some antifungal meds, they’re always susceptible to enzymes.

The biofilm is mainly made of fiber, but also fats and proteins … so it’s important to use digestive enzymes that break down all three of these substances. An important addition is cellulase, a plant-based digestive enzyme. Cellulase breaks down the fiber in yeast’s shell … but your dog doesn’t manufacture it, so it needs to be given as a supplement. Other digestive enzymes will break down the fats and proteins in the biofilm.

It’s important to give your dog digestive enzymes between meals. If given with meals, the enzymes will digest your dog’s food and not the yeast cell walls. Enzymes will also make your dog’s digestive tract more acidic, which makes it less hospitable to both yeast and harmful bacteria. Another benefit to digestive enzymes is that they can reduce the symptoms of yeast die-off. If your dog becomes too uncomfortable, you can increase the digestive enzymes or reduce the amount of anti-fungal foods.

Step 3: What To Feed A Dog With A Yeast Infection

The best diet for a dog with yeast is a whole food, raw diet, avoiding any starchy carbohydrates. Then, once you’ve stopped feeding the yeast and you’ve broken up the biofilm, you’ll want to add antifungal foods and supplements to your dog’s diet. Use as many as your dog can tolerate … but if he’s showing signs of yeast die-off, go more slowly. 

Home Remedy For Yeast Infection in Dogs

Here are some of the top performing antifungal foods:

Caprylic Acid
This is a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) found in coconut oil and palm oil. Of course, you want to be kind to the planet and make sure your caprylic acid never comes from palm oil. Research shows caprylic acid can directly treat some yeast infections. It’s believed it can destroy Candida by destroying its cell membrane. Ideally, your dog’s caprylic acid would come from MCT oil. Research done on the benefits of coconut oil weren’t done on the same coconut oil you would buy at the grocery store … they were done using only the MCTs.

Coconut oil is also a poor choice for managing yeast infection in dogs because of its lauric acid content. Lauric acid promotes inflammation in the digestive tract. This is a key cause of leaky gut. So a good quality MCT oil might be a better source of caprylic acid than coconut oil. And as a bonus, it’s been shown to be a potential way to manage seizures in dogs.

MCT oil can cause diarrhea in your dog if you give too much. So start slowly and work your way up. Try starting at a quarter tsp for large and medium sized dogs.

Olive Leaf
Like caprylic acid, olive leaf is believe to break down the Candida cell membrane. Its active antifungal substance is oleuropein. This is what gives olive oil its bitter taste. Olive leaf has been shown to prevent and manage yeast in multiple studies .. so it’s a great addition to fight yeast.

Use the powdered form for your dog. The dose is:

  • Small Dog            1/4 teaspoon daily
  • Medium Dog       1/2 teaspoon daily
  • Large Dog            1 teaspoon daily

You can slowly increase the dose (up to 500mg twice daily for large dogs), but go slowly to avoid the Herxheimer reaction.

Pau D’Arco
This is a proven antifungal from the rain forests of South America. Pau d’arco contains naphthoquinones, which can kill fungi (as well as parasites and viruses). Plus it contains lapachol, a substance known to kill yeast. But be careful … lapachol should not be given to pregnant dogs.

Pau d’arco is available in supplement form, but it’s important to find one of a higher quality. The amount of lapachol varies from tree to tree, so it must be standardized. Give pau d’arco as a dried herb. Canine Herbalist Rita Hogan recommends dosing twice daily with food, in these amounts:

  • 100 mg for extra small dogs
  • 200 mg for small dogs
  • 300 mg for medium dogs
  • 400 mg for large dogs
  • 500 mg for extra large dogs

Goldenseal
Goldenseal contains a compound called berberine. This is an alkaloid that helps the plant defend itself from fungus and bacteria. It’s a well-known antifungal that has been shown to fight yeast in studies. Goldenseal should not be given in pregnant or hypoglycemic dogs and should not be given long term in large doses. Give goldenseal once or twice daily in these amounts:

  • Dried powder: use 1 teaspoon per 20 pounds
  • Tincture: Give 5 – 10 drops per 20 pounds

Those are four proven yeast killers you’ll want to use. .

DNM RECOMMENDS: Four Leaf Rover offers Yeast Guard, a veterinary-formulated blend of herbs that support a healthy microbiome and break down the biofilm that protects harmful yeast. Buy Yeast Guard now >> 

Once you’ve stopped feeding the yeast and you’ve added the above foods and supplements to kill off the yeast, it’s time for the final step ..

Step 4: Crowd Out The Yeast

If you switch your dog to a raw diet and reduce the heavy metals in his diet and environment, you’ll start to starve the Candida and harmful yeasts. And that’s good! And now you have some supplements to help kill the yeast. Also good.

But dog yeast infections are tough … it’s often hard to limit heavy metals and there will always be some food for the Candida to eat. So you need to create a gut environment that’s not hospitable to yeast. There are a few ways to do this:

Avoid Gut Harming Chemicals
Yeast can’t grow out of control if your dog’s gut has healthy populations of bacteria. Yeast can’t take over the neighborhood and all its resources unless its neighbors can’t defend their territory. So if you want to crowd out the yeast populations, you have to stop doing things that cause its neighbors to lose real estate. Besides sugar, here are common things that can harm your dog’s gut bacteria:

  • Antibiotics (Antibiotics will destroy both the bad bacteria and the good bacteria. Without the competition, yeast can take over and grow out of control.)
  • Toxins (There are toxins in your dog’s food, water and environment that will damage the beneficial bacteria that keep yeast in check. You’ll want to avoid:
    • Unnecessary vaccines
    • Drugs and chemicals
    • Flea and tick preventatives
    • Cleaning products
    • Foods high in glyphosate
  • Cortisone medications
  • Thyroid medications
  • Stress

These will all cause unwanted changes in your dog’s gut. So a clean diet and living environment will make sure you don’t damage any of those friendly bacteria populations. Once you make the neighborhood “probiotic friendly” again, it’s time to get them to move back in …

Add Probiotics
After you make the microbiome a nicer place for beneficial bacteria to live, it’s time to start adding probiotics to your dog’s diet. There are many probiotic supplements you can choose from. Not all probiotics will fight yeast, but these strains have good research behind them (4). And they’re regular inhabitants in your dog’s gut:

  • Lactobacillus acidophilus
  • Lactobacillus casei
  • Lactobacillus plantarum
  • Lactobacillus reuteri
  • Lactobacillus rhamnosus
  • Bifidobacterium bifidum
  • Bifidobacterium longum

Best Probiotics For Dog Yeast Infection In Dogs
Soil based probiotics (SBOs) are a different class of probiotics. Most bacteria like Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium are fragile … they’re easily destroyed by your dog’s acidic gut. But SBOs are spore-forming. This means they can form a protective coating that makes them resistant to heat, acid and antibiotics. It also makes them more likely to survive the large intestine compared to other probiotic strains.

These soil-based probiotics are proven to help fight yeast overgrowth directly:

  • Bacillus coagulans
  • Bacillus subtilus

Pediococcus acidilactici is an additional probiotic that bears special mention. It prevents undigested food from accumulating in the gut and attracting unwanted yeast and bacteria. Another study found that it protects the gut lining from harmful organisms.

Avoid Fermented Foods
Many foods are rich in probiotics, including yogurtyoghurt, kefir, kimchi and kombucha. You might think these foods would help crowd out your dog’s yeast. But you’ll want to avoid fermented food until your dog’s yeast is back under control.

This might seem counterintuitive since your dog needs probiotics. But fermentation happens when the carbohydrates and sugars in food are eaten by bacteria and yeast. So the prebiotics found in fermented food will also feed the yeast in your dog’s intestines! It’s best to leave the fermented foods alone until your dog’s yeast infection is resolved.

Fight Yeast With Yeast
There’s a special probiotic called Saccharomyces boulardii. What’s unique about this probiotic is that it’s not bacteria … it’s actually yeast. You might be thinking you don’t want to add any more yeast to your dog’s problems! But S. boulardii has been shown to stop Candida from moving out of the digestive tract and into the bloodstream and organs. And it also reduces the inflammation Candida causes and reduces its colonization.

Add Prebiotics
It’s important to remember that probiotics only live in your dog’s gut for a day or a few days. So you can’t stop at probiotics. If you want to grow your dog’s bacteria populations, you need to do more … you need to give your dog prebiotics. Just as yeast loves to eat carbs and sugar, friendly bacteria love to eat starch. Not to be confused with carbs, the starch that feeds yeast is the kind your dog can’t digest. You might know it as fiber.

So if you really want to increase the numbers of bacteria in your dog’s gut … feed them with fiber! Prebiotics will do a much better job than just giving probiotics for a couple of reasons:

  • Most of the friendly bacteria in your dog’s gut aren’t found in probiotic supplements
  • Probiotics don’t grow bacteria populations as well as prebiotics do

So prebiotics are a critical part of your dog’s fight against yeast. Plus, fiber can reduce mercury levels in the brain and body. Here are some important, food-based prebiotics you should add to your dog’s diet:

  • Dandelion root
  • Burdock root
  • Chlorella (also detoxes the brain from mercury)
  • Low-sugar berries (like raspberries)

Remove The Heavy Metals
Your final job is to remove all those heavy metals the dead yeast will dump into your dog’s body. Fiber will already do a good job of this … but there are foods that can help with this job:

  • Chlorella (This green algae has been shown to reduce the absorption of mercury in mice.) (14, 15)
  • Foods Rich In Sulphur (Foods that are rich in sulphur can bind to heavy metals and reduce the oxidative damage in organs. These include garlic and broccoli. These supplements have also been shown to chelate (bind to) heavy metals:
    • Glutathione
    • Citrus pectin from brown seaweed
    • Sulphur-containing amino acids (like taurine and methionine)
    • Selenium
    • Bentonite clay
    • Humic and fulvic acid

So there you have it … the four simple steps to managing a dog yeast infection! If your dog is really suffering, go slow. These are changes that will last a lifetime, so slow and steady wins the race against yeast.

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The Groundwork to Becoming Your Puppy’s Pack Leader

Pack Structure

Dogs are pack animals, just like wolves are pack animals. They are predators. Horses and cows on the other hand, are herd animals. Being herd animals also makes them prey (food) for predators.

Predators live by one set of genetic rules, prey animals live by a different set of genetic rules.

Pack animals live in family packs which have a pack leader and lower ranking pack members. Dog packs, like wolf packs, are not a democracy.

A pack is organized in a hierarchy of rank. Simply put, this means that every member of the pack knows exactly what its rank is within the family pack.

Pack animals genetically understand this concept. This concept is the reason people have dog fights when they add a new dog to a home that already has dogs. Everyone has to re-establish the new pecking order when a new pack member comes on board.

The Beginning of Pack Structure

When a puppy is raised with littermates they begin to establish their family pack at about 4 ½ weeks of age. They start by playing with one another.

They bite and push each other around. Those pups that bite the hardest and push the most become the higher ranking pack members of the litter.

With that said, there is no question that the mother is the pack leader. A good mother will exert her leadership by warning puppies to stay away from her food bowl when she is eating. She protects her litter which demonstrates leadership and she also controls the litter in subtle ways that establish her as the pack leader.

What is a pack leader?

When people get puppies they need to establish themselves as the new pack leader. To do this correctly they should first understand exactly what a pack leader is.

Pack leaders are aloof, they are calm, and they are self confident. A pack leader is fair in how he lives with pack members. While the pack leader is a dictator, he is a fair dictator who enforces a well defined set of rules that members know, understand and are expected to live by.

What a pack leader is not, is a dictator who loses his temper, bullies pack members into compliance, and does not act in a fair manner in regard to the lives of pack members.

For example, the leader always eats first. Lower ranking members don’t get the choice food. But when the leader is finished and he turns the food over to other pack members, he does not come back and drive them away from the food.

People who put food down and then take it away or push the dogs away from the food bowl are bullies. This is how their dogs view them. This is not practicing fair leadership principles.

The correct way is to make the dog do something (i.e. sit) before the food is put down. But once it’s down they leave it alone until it’s time to pick it up. We leave food down for 15 minutes and then pick it up, even if the dog has not eaten it all.

It’s easy to bully your way into a leadership position. People (mostly men) do this all the time. The problem is that the bullying destroys their relationship with their dogs.

I want my pack members to trust me, feel relaxed around me, and be comfortable in my presence. The only way this can happen is if they know the rules and anticipate our expectations. When that happens they know they will be treated fairly. They also know that if they ignore the rules they will suffer the consequences.

This leadership relationship is a learned endeavor. It’s learned through the day to day experiences of living with an owner who establishes and enforces rules. It’s also learned through formal obedience training.

But with this said, I tell people that hundreds of thousands of dogs go through obedience classes in this country every year. The vast majority of dominant dogs come out of these classes just as dominant as when they went in. That’s because the owners were not trained in pack structure.

Puppies who grew up and became dominant and aggressive dogs were always raised by people who did not establish the correct family pack structure.

Where does it start?

When a puppy comes to your home its only experience in life has been with its mother and littermates. It sees that things have changed, but it has no reason to believe that how it interacts with a family pack has changed.

It has played with littermates by biting and chasing, so that’s how it thinks it should continue to interact within a family pack.

It takes a few days but once it accepts you and your family as its new pack, it will try to interact with you the same way it did with littermates…by biting and chasing.

The fact is, in its own small way it’s trying to find its rank within the new pecking order of your family.

It’s your job to teach your puppy (without scaring it) that you are the new pack leader. It’s your job to teach it that biting and chasing high ranking human pack members is unacceptable. Therein lies the rub. Many people ignore these small challenges and others overreact to them. You have to find the middle road.

Those who ignore this behavior often end up with dominant dogs. Those who overreact and use too much force in correcting the biting end up with shy dogs that never reach their potential.

Establishing the Tether

When we bring a pup home we always use a dog crate. Those who don’t use a crate are making a mistake. Those who won’t use a crate should just quit reading because they are wasting their time to read further.

Our first goal is to reduce the possibility of house training mistakes and to teach the pup that being wild in the house is not going to happen.

So in the beginning most of our interaction with a new pup is done outside. We use a flat collar with a snap and one of the 20 foot cotton lines we have. When the pup runs around we let it drag the line.

While this is not a house training article, I want to make the point that teaching a dog to pee or poop when it’s on a line is a very smart thing to do. You will find out how smart if you ever have to travel with your dog.

When we bring a pup in the house we never allow it to run around the house. We always have a line on it. What better way to establish our leadership than to control every aspect of the pup’s life? Trust me this does not fall on deaf ears.

Those who allow puppies to run around un-tethered are only asking for the problems that will eventually come up. These pups are going to get into things, they are going to pee on the floor, or they are going to jump up and play bite.

When we are tired of dealing with the pup it goes into its crate. In the beginning it’s going to scream like a banshee for a few days, but such is life. We will put the pup in a crate in the garage and let it scream its head off.

For those who don’t have a garage you can leave a radio or TV on, or cover the crate with a sheet, or leave one of the toys with treats in the crate, or leave a cow knuckle bone to chew on (although you need to be a little careful about loose stools here).

As time passes and the pup calms down and learns manners in the house, I may let it lie at my feet when I work on my computer. If it doesn’t calm down it stays in the crate when I don’t have time for it.

In the article I wrote “Who Pets My Puppy?” I explain why I don’t allow other people to pet or play with my puppy. The short version is that I want to become the center of the universe for my dog. I don’t want my dog to be looking to other people as a source of praise and fun. I recommend that you take a minute and read or listen to that article.

Controlling the Wild Puppy

When people get puppies with a lot of prey drive they are often at a loss as to what to do to control the little alligator they now live with.

The simple answer is to redirect the puppy into a toy.

As I explained earlier, puppies play by using their mouth. They see littermates as prey objects. When they come into your home and start chewing on you, they see you as a prey item. Your job is to teach them that toys are now prey items and not your hands,arms and legs.

Some puppies will pick up on this concept pretty quickly, some will not. Those that are little biting machines need additional work. In the DVD I recently finished titled “Dealing with Dominant and Aggressive Dogs” I demonstrate exactly how to handle this kind of puppy without hurting its drive or temperament. I show how to teach a wild puppy to calm down and knock it off without shaking it or hitting it or raising your voice. If you have this problem I recommend that you get this DVD.

Doors and Gates

Going through doors, going through gates, and coming down stairs first are a huge things in terms of rank for a dog. All dogs, puppies or adults, get excited when it’s time to be let out or time to come back in the house. Without training they will all bolt out the door. This is not only annoying, it can be dangerous.

From day one we control the pups at the door. They are always on a line and we always make the pup sit for food when we go outside or come back inside. In fact, we even make the dog sit when we step outside before we close the door.

Establishing a routine at the door again enforces your rank and control over the dog. Don’t underestimate the importance of this.

Toys

There is no question that people quickly fall in love with their puppies. Many buy their pets toys. I recently saw a reality TV show in which a women spent over $100 a week buying her dog new toys. Boy, do I wish I could send her a catalog…

With this said, we don’t leave toys lying around our home. We take the approach that the dog does not own any toys. The toys are our toys and we allow the pup to play with “OUR TOYS.” But we always take the toys away when the play time is finished.

Once again this demonstrates leadership without pressure. It’s not domineering but it makes it clear that you are the leader.

With little pups we experiment to find toys that interest them. Sometimes it’s a puppy tug, sometimes is an orbee ball, sometimes it’s one of the other various dog toys we sell.

When we play with pups we always have it wear a line. This does two things. It stops them from playing keep away, and it conditions them to forget that they have a line on.

I explain exactly how to play with pups in my DVD “Building Drive and Focus.” I will not go into that here, only to say that through our play we teach our pup that we are fair. We don’t bully him and we teach him that if he gives us the toy when told the game will sometimes go on and not end.

This is accomplished by immediately tossing the toy and starting the game all over again after we ask him to release the toy.

Taking the Toy Away From the Puppy

After play, when it comes time to take the toy away we say “OUT” (any word will do as long as we are consistent and stick with the same word) and offer to trade the pup a really good treat for the toy.

We simply let them smell the treat and when they spit out the toy they get the food. If we want the game to end we do a slight of hand to get the toy out of the picture and make it disappear. We don’t tease them with the toy once we take it away. That’s poor leadership and is counter productive to a good bond.

Trading food for toys is only going to last so long. Many dogs will start to look at you like “OH NO – I KNOW THAT TRICK – I STILL WANT TO PLAY.”

When that happens we change our approach and move on to the second stage of teaching the dog to release when told. That training is beyond the scope of this article but it’s covered in “Building Drive and Focus.”

Other Dogs and Puppies

I have written extensively about the fact that we never allow our puppies to be around other dogs or puppies. If we are raising two pups at the same time we never allow them to play together. We want our pups to look at us as their source of fun and excitement and not another dog.

I get emails all the time from people who have serious behavioral problems because they mistakenly bought two pups which are now 12 to 24 months old. These dogs are now anti-social and are more difficult to train. Many have aggression problems.

A word of caution to those who live in urban areas which have dog parks. Don’t take your new puppy to a dog park. You are only asking for problems if you do. Read the article I wrote on dog parks to learn more about this.

If we are out for a walk and are approached by another person walking their dog we NEVER allow the other dog to come up and smell or greet our puppy. I cannot stress this enough.

We don’t know how territorial or dog aggressive this other dog is. It only takes a blink of an eye for another dog to strike our puppy. Once a puppy has been attacked, it will be dog aggressive for the rest of its life. Dogs don’t forget traumatic events like this.

As the pack leader our puppy EXPECTS us to protect it from non-pack members. If we are out for a walk and a stray dog tries to approach our puppy we put ourselves between the pup and the off leash dog. We drive the stray away. If we walk in an area that we know there are stray dogs we will carry pepper gas or a stout walking stick and we don’t hesitate to use them if the stray does not heed our verbal warnings.

Vets, Vaccinations, and Neutering

I have written an article that details our position on vaccinations which basically says “less is better.”

If you are a new puppy owner I strongly suggest that you read the article I wrote titled “Vaccinosis – do your research before you vaccinate.”

It is our opinion that dogs do not need yearly vaccinations. This opinion is shared by a growing number of Veterinary Universities. There is an article on my web site about which Universities these are.

In our opinion vaccinations often cause more problems than they prevent. We feel they are a major cause of allergies in dogs. We feel that vaccinations, along with commercial dog foods, are a leading cause of cancer in dogs. Vaccinations are also the reason that many dogs develop thyroid problems which can lead to aggression problems in dogs. Many times these changes don’t appear until months after a vaccination.

Many old school vets don’t like to talk about these things because a major part of their income comes from yearly vaccinations. Our recommendation is to walk away from a vet who pushes yearly vaccinations.

Rabies vaccinations are required by law, but it is not without risk.

Bottom line is you need to do your own research and make your own decisions on what to do for your own dogs.

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By Ed Frawley

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