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Synthetic Vitamins and Minerals in Pet Food

Have you ever taken a close look at the ingredients panel on the package of a commercially made dog food? You may be grateful when looking at the list of vitamins and minerals that your pet’s food is “complete and balanced.” The Association of America Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) requires that all ingredients in pet food be listed on the packaging. However, you may need a dictionary or an internet browser to help decipher the long list of chemicals posing as vitamins and minerals in your pet food. This blog will explain the differences between natural and synthetic vitamins and why I recommend food made with the former and not the latter.


Why are synthetic vitamins and minerals added to dog and cat food?


To reach the “complete and balanced” label governed by AAFCO, pet food companies must prove that their foods contain certain levels of specific nutrients. Simply put, there are not enough nutrients in processed foods to prevent disease. Nutrients are lost in the heat processing of commercial pet food. AAFCO offers a prescriptive list of synthetic nutrients that can be added to pet foods to meet the “complete and balanced” requirement.

There are two ways to prove a food meets these standards. The first requires extensive testing on the nutritional content of the finished food and further testing to prove biological availability to the animal. This process, while the most accurate, is also expensive. The second option simply requires adding a predetermined amount of synthetic nutrients to the recipe. This method is used by almost all dry and wet food producers and is the cheapest and easiest option.

Even though a food is labeled as “natural,” the required statement “with added vitamins and minerals” is added because the vitamins and minerals are synthetic.

How are synthetic vitamins and minerals made?


Synthetic nutrients in pet foods are used as replacements for naturally occurring vitamins and minerals. Most of these compounds are lab-created by reacting organic or inorganic substances with acids, bases, or other reducing compounds. For example, the synthetic version of the amino acid Lysine, called L-Lysine monohydrochloride, is made by reacting ammonia, hydrogen cyanide, and mercaptaldehyde – poisons if ingested in their raw form. When making a synthetic nutrient, a shelf-stable form of the element is created, and these forms look very different from the natural state of the nutrient.

The form of the synthetic nutrient can make a difference in the formulation. For example, calcium is added to foods most commonly as calcium carbonate or calcium citrate. The latter is absorbed more easily but only contains 21% calcium. The former contains much more calcium but very little of it is absorbed by the body. And both types are affected by the other nutrients they’re consumed with. Without sufficient testing, it is hard to know exactly how much calcium your pet is receiving and assimilating from their processed food.

What are the most common vitamins and minerals added to commercially manufactured pet food?

  • Choline Chloride is considered a synthetic B-complex vitamin. Natural sources include egg yolk, soy, cooked beef, chicken, and turkey livers.
  • Calcium Panthenate is synthetic vitamin B15. Natural sources include organ meats, eggs, fish, shellfish, lobsters, soybeans and lentils.
  • Thiamin Mononitrate is synthetic vitamin B-1. Natural sources include meats, poultry, whole grains, nuts, legumes, and brewer’s yeast.
  • Riboflavin Mononitrate is synthetic B-2. Natural sources include oysters, lean meat, leafy vegetables, mushrooms, and asparagus.
  • Pyridoxidine Hydrochloride is synthetic vitamin B-6. Natural sources include grains, spinach, green beans and cereals.
  • Ascorbic acid is synthetic vitamin C. Natural sources of Vitamin C include strawberries, citrus fruits, turnip greens, cabbage, sweet potatoes, broccoli, carrots, peas, squash, and parsley.
  • Cholecalciferol and methione are synthetic forms of vitamin D. Natural sources include sunlight, whole eggs, liver and salmon.
  • Methadione Dimethylprimidinol Bisulfite is synthetic vitamin K. Natural sources include green vegetables such as kale, broccoli, spinach and collards.
  • Dicalcium Phosphate and calcium phosphate are synthetic calcium. Natural sources include broccoli, almonds, chia seeds, sunflower seeds and kale.
  • Iron proteinate, ferrous carbonate, and ferrous sulfate are synthetic forms of iron. Natural sources of iron include liver, kidney, lean meats, shellfish, fruits, nuts, whole grains, and leafy vegetables.
  • Zinc sulfate is synthetic zinc. Natural sources include meats, fish, oysters and nuts.
  • Copper oxide, copper proteinate, and copper sulfate are synthetic forms of copper. Natural sources include liver, oysters, lobster, mushrooms, nuts and seeds.

What are the disadvantages of using synthetic vitamins?

When ingesting synthetic vitamins through food, there are several disadvantages for the animal. None of the problems listed below occur with vitamins derived from whole foods.

  1.  Quantity control – Synthetic vitamins are added to large vats of food in the processing, and quantity control can be questionable. The pet food industry is aware that certain minimum levels of vitamins and minerals are necessary to avoid devastating disease. But what about too much of a certain vitamin? Excess vitamins and minerals can also cause catastrophic disease, and even death. While some vitamins have regulated maximum levels, others do not. For example, the European Union (EU) and other European countries have upper limits for the amount of copper that can be added to pet food, while the United States does not. In 2023, AAFCO reaffirmed its guidelines for copper concentration after an expert panel concluded “there is lack of definitive evidence linking copper-associated hepatitis in dogs and the copper content in dog foods. (1)  Europe takes a “guilty until proven innocent” approach to regulating drugs, vitamins, etc. while the US takes an “innocent until proven guilty” approach. The additives you see listed on your bag of food may not be present if the same food is sold in Europe or other parts of the world.
  2. Lack of “Co-factors” – Cofactors are nutrients and chemical compounds that frequently appear with certain vitamins and minerals in nature. These important substances play a vital role in helping pet’s bodies utilize that key nutrient. Without them, the nutrients may not be absorbed, may not be usable, or may cause damage. In a case study that looked at the use B vitamins in puppy food, puppies who were ingesting the synthetic version over time experienced hair and pigment loss, anemia, low white blood cell count and lethargy. (2) Additional synthetic B vitamins that were added did not fix the problems; however, supplementing with brewer’s yeast or liver – both natural sources of B vitamins – reversed the deficiency.
  3. “Peak and Drop” Phenomenon – This phenomenon occurs when synthetic vitamins improve health when initially ingested. Then over time, their efficacy sharply decreases because the synthetic version of the vitamin or mineral clogs cell receptors in the body that are used to assimilate the nutrient. Studies conducted on dogs with B6 deficiency showed that while adding the synthetic vitamin showed an initial uptick in hemoglobin levels, there followed a drastic decline into anemia. The control group, which was given brewer’s yeast along with the synthetic vitamin maintained normal hemoglobin levels throughout the study. (3)
  4. Potency loss during manufacturing – Studies show that when mixed with other food ingredients, certain synthetic vitamins and minerals quickly lose their potency. An example is the synthetic form of Vitamin K, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite. This vitamin has shown effectiveness when given orally as a supplement. However, it rapidly loses its potency when mixed with other ingredients. Because these nutrients are not always identical to forms found in nature, the body can’t utilize them the same.
  5. Adverse reactions – Synthetic nutrients can behave differently in the body than their natural counterparts. In some cases, the animal’s body may look at the synthetic vitamin as a foreign body and doesn’t recognize it as a food. In addition to getting no benefit from the added vitamin or mineral, inflammation and disease can occur because of this process.
  6. Synthetic vitamins are only a piece of the nutritional picture – Even if synthetic vitamins and minerals didn’t have any of the disadvantages listed above, they represent only a small percentage of the overall picture when feeding our pets. There are other substances such as glucosamine and probiotics that are not required by AAFCO that are very beneficial to a pet’s health.

How can I avoid synthetic vitamins in my pet’s food?

To completely avoid synthetic additives, making your own dog food at home is your best bet. There are many free recipes and classes available on our website that guide you through the process of complete and balanced home cooking. Adding back missing vitamins and minerals with supplements is another option but be sure that the supplements you choose are not made with synthetic versions. Raw food is your best bet for additive-free food in the commercial category. READ THE LABELS! Many of these diets contain some synthetic vitamins or minerals to fill the gaps that where whole food ingredients don’t provide enough. Another option is to add nutrient toppers that are made with 100% whole-food, nutrient-dense ingredients. Because kibble requires heat and pressure processing that destroys nutrients, it is very difficult to find dry dog food that hasn’t been fortified with synthetic vitamins. You are much more likely to
find these options in the freeze-dried and air-dried versions of food. Not all of these are free of synthetic vitamins and minerals, but all contain far more natural nutrients than kibble.


At best, synthetic nutrients allow dog food companies to meet the bare minimum for nutritional quality. At worst, they impart dangerous side effects and leave your dog deficient in essential vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. It will likely be pet owner education and consumer demand that will cause the industry to produce pet diets without these toxic vitamin and mineral additions. As manufacturers realize there is a consumer need and a willingness to purchase high-quality products made from whole foods and natural vitamins and minerals, they will respond by investing their billions in making higher quality and safer products.

Responsible pet owners will continue to seek out the latest nutritional information and support companies that ethically produce food. The solution to pet food safety and nutrition is not in the laboratory…” better living through chemistry” does not apply when it comes to pet food. Mother Nature knows best!

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French Bulldog Puppies For Sale in Florida

Potty Watch: How Often Should Your Dog Go?

The 411 on Canine Pee Production

According to veterinarian Dr. Jennifer Bailey, writing for Whole Dog Journal, healthy dogs produce about 2 to 4 milliliters (mL) of urine per pound of body weight per hour. So, a 10-pound dog makes about 20 to 40 mL of urine each hour, or 480 to 960 mL (16 to 32 ounces) per day.1

“The average dog’s bladder will begin to expand once it contains about 16 to 22 mL of urine per pound of body weight,” says Bailey. “When a bladder starts to expand, neurons in the bladder wall send signals to the brain that say, ‘Hey! I’m starting to fill up with urine! Tell the dog to go pee so I can be empty again.’

Ten-pound Fido will start to feel the urge to pee when his bladder contains between 160 and 220 mL of urine. If his body produces urine at the maximum rate of 40 mL per hour, he may want to pee in as few as four hours (when his bladder contains160 mL of urine). If, in contrast, he produces urine at the lowest average rate (2 mL per pound of body weight per hour), and he can withstand the urge to pee until his bladder is as full as possible (220 mL), he could go up to 11 hours before having the urge to urinate.

It’s important to note that every dog’s ability to withstand the discomfort of a full bladder is different!”

Bailey explains that an average dog’s bladder can hold about 44 mL of urine per pound of body weight, which would be about 440 mL of urine for our 10-pounder. It would take between 11 and 22 hours for him to make that much urine.

“At this volume, Fido’s bladder would be stretched to the point of being painful. If he can’t go outside or use a pee pad, he is likely going to find a convenient place to relieve himself — like the living room rug! (And who would blame him?),” writes Bailey.

Dogs Need To Be Able to Relieve Themselves Every 4 to 6 Hours

Most healthy adult dogs need 3 to 5 opportunities each day to pee and/or poop. Older dogs and those with certain conditions such as urinary incontinence need to go out more often. Generally speaking, dogs shouldn’t go without a potty break for more than 4 or 6 hours. (Please note I’m only discussing adult dogs here.)

It’s important to realize that while your dog can “hold it” for longer periods, she really shouldn’t have to. Imagine how you would feel if you were dependent on someone else to give you permission to go to the bathroom, and often that person made you wait long past the point at which you became uncomfortable “holding it.” Beyond four hours without a potty break, and certainly beyond six, most dogs become uncomfortable.

How Much Time Does Your Dog Spend Home Alone?

Full-time trainer and behavior consultant Nancy Tucker, CDBC, CPDT-KA, also writing for Whole Dog Journal, asks another important question many pet parents wrestle with:

“How much isolation a dog can and should endure are two different things. How much time does your dog spend home alone? Is your dog experiencing isolation distress?”2

I realize this is a sensitive issue for many dog parents, and for good reason. Many people who adopt a dog from a shelter or rescue work outside the home, go to school, or are involved in other activities that take them away from their houses for several hours, several days a week.

By necessity, they must leave their dogs behind, but since they’ve given an abandoned or unwanted dog a loving home, they feel it’s unfair to criticize them for leaving their pet alone for long stretches.

I understand where these pet parents are coming from, and I agree that it’s certainly better for a dog to be in a forever home than a shelter. I don’t pretend to have all the answers to the problem of dogs left alone all day, but as a wellness veterinarian and animal advocate, I can’t in good conscience just ignore the issue for fear of making someone angry or hurting their feelings.

My goal is simply to help dog guardians see the home-alone situation through their pet’s eyes, and hopefully offer some suggestions you may not have thought of as alternatives to leaving your canine family member at home alone all day. As Tucker points out:

“A lot of dogs might spend most of their waking hours home alone and seem to do just fine, but is it okay? Are they really fine? I sometimes wonder if, instead, this is something we say to ourselves to assuage our guilt, or to avoid taking a harder look at a cultural norm that could use an update.”

Isolation Distress vs. Separation Anxiety

It’s important to note that a dog can be distressed while home alone without developing full-blown separation anxiety. Distress is a milder form of stress and anxiety, whereas dogs with separation anxiety can have the canine version of a panic attack when their human isn’t around.

According to Pat Miller, another animal behavior expert who writes for Whole Dog Journal:

“The distinction between ‘isolation’ and ‘separation’ is equally important. Isolation distress means the dog doesn’t want to be left alone – any ol’ human will do for company, and sometimes even another dog will fill the bill. True separation distress or anxiety means the dog is hyper-bonded to one specific person, and continues to show stress behaviors if that person is absent, even if other humans or dogs are present.”3

10 to 12 Uninterrupted Hours Alone Is Too Long

Not so long ago, no one gave a second thought to leaving a dog home alone for a day or two with a supply of kibble and plenty of water to drink. It just didn’t occur to pet owners to wonder how their dog felt being left alone, whether indoors or outside.

Fortunately, these days most people know better than to leave their dog alone for such a long stretch, but it’s very common for dogs to be left home for 8 or 10 or 12 hours, up to five or six days a week. And depending on the owner’s lifestyle, he or she may arrive home after 10 hours, give the dog a quick walk and dinner, and then go back out for the evening. (Of course, on the flip side, there are also dog parents who turn down social invitations to spend evenings and weekends with their pet.)

“Here’s the thing,” writes Tucker, “and I won’t pull any punches: 10 to 12 hours is too long for a dog to be alone in a single stretch.” I agree. Of course, as she goes on to say, there are plenty of people who argue they’ve always left their dogs, with no issues.

“What this means, though” says Tucker, “is that the dogs who appear to be fine have simply learned to cope with something that is entirely out of their control. Being left alone for long stretches of time is not a likely choice that they would make if it was up to them. They’ve adapted to our routines, but it’s far from ideal for them.” Again, I have to agree.

Tucker also writes, “We count on our dogs to be there for us when we’re ready to interact with them, but in between those moments, we expect them to do nothing and wait. It’s a tall order, but lucky for us, most dogs adapt incredibly well to anything we ask them to.”

Options to Consider if Your Dog Is Home Alone During the Day

I recognize that the following suggestions won’t be easy or even possible for everyone to do. Finding alternatives to leaving your dog home alone will depend on your budget, your freedom to manage your time during the day, your family and social support system, and other factors.

  • See if your employer will let you work from home some or all of the time — Depending on the kind of work you do, you may be able to do it effectively from home. If so, ask your boss if he or she would be amenable. You’ll never know if you don’t ask!
  • See if you can bring your dog to work with you — Again, this depends on the kind of work you do, who you work for, and whether your employer might be open to having dogs in the workplace. (Obviously, if you work for yourself, you can give yourself permission!)
  • Come home for lunch — If your workplace is close enough, consider returning home at lunchtime to walk your dog and spend some time with him.
  • Ask a stay-at-home family member or friend to dog-sit — Is there anyone in your family or circle of friends who likes dogs (including yours), is home a lot, and would be willing to care for your dog a few days a week? Perhaps you can offer the person something they need in return, such as pet- or babysitting services.
  • Arrange for someone to stop by and walk your dog — This could be a friendly neighbor or anyone you know and trust who likes dogs and would be willing to give yours some attention a few days a week. You can also offer to pay a responsible neighborhood child or teen to do it.
  • Hire a professional dog walker — There are a lot of dog walking services around these days, depending on where you live. If you decide to go this route, be sure to do your homework and find a reputable one.
  • Enroll your pet in doggy daycare — If your dog enjoys interacting and playing with other dogs, a doggy daycare once or twice a week can be a godsend. “Look for clean, well-designed locations with qualified staff who will manage interactions between the dogs and provide necessary rest periods,” advises Tucker.

  • Analysis by Dr. Karen Shaw Becker

What Essential Oils Are Safe For Dogs?

Everyone’s quick to recommend essential oils for almost any condition … from arthritis to separation anxiety.  But not all essential oils are good for dogs. In fact, some oils can be dangerous.

So, what essential oils are safe for dogs?

Here’s the information you need about essential oils … which ones are safe for dogs and which aren’t. Plus, how to use them safely on or around your dog.

What Are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are concentrated compounds extracted from plants, usually by water or steam distillation. They’re the essence of the plant, with many different functions … such as protecting the plant from predators and pathogens, because plants can’t move to escape threats.

Essential oils are expensive because it takes so much plant material to make them. For example, it takes about 250 lbs of lavender flower to make 1 lb of lavender essential oil. This is why essential oils are so powerful.

The body can absorb essential oils into the bloodstream through various methods:

  • Inhalation
  • Ingestion (swallowing or licking)
  • Through the skin

Once the oils get into the bloodstream, they can travel to various tissues. Different chemicals in the oils have a biological affinity for certain tissues. So knowing your oil’s components is the first step in choosing the right oil for your dog.

Are Essential Oils Safe For Dogs?

Essential oils have benefits for humans and dogs … but they can be harmful to dogs if used the wrong way. And some essential oils are extremely toxic to dogs.

If you want to use essential oils around or on your dog, it’s a good idea to check with a holistic veterinarian, herbalist or aromatherapist who’s knowledgeable about essential oils for dogs. Ask which oils are safe, the dilution ratios, and when and how to use them. Always watch your dog for any reaction, and give him a chance to say no to any essential oil you offer him.

Are Essential Oils Safe For Dogs To Smell?

Dogs have a heightened sense of smell and their bodies process substances differently from humans. Some essential oils can be safe for dogs to smell in small amounts, but be careful. Certain essential oils can be overwhelming or irritating to your dog. And dogs should never take essential oils by mouth. 

You can test your dog’s reaction to a specific essential oil by letting him sniff the bottle with the cap still on. If your dog turns away or shows discomfort in any way, don’t use that oil for your dog.

Here’s a little teaser from our Canine Essential Oils course. Dr Isla Fishburn shows how your dog will also let you know if he’s had enough of a certain oil.

Many people ask if essential oil diffusers are safe for dogs. That depends on the oil. Only use oils from the safe lists below. Place only a drop or 2 in your diffuser water … and always make sure your dog (or other pets) can leave the space if they don’t like it. That means you should only use a diffuser when you’re home to turn it off if necessary.

Others ask if essential oil candles are safe for dogs. Usually, they are not safe, even when unlit. They’re often made with cheap waxes that release toxic gases into the air, and they often contain poor quality essential oils.  

Veterinarian Dr Richard Palmquist says this about essential oils and your dog:

“Essential oils contain a host of biologically active and powerful compounds. Used correctly, they are an indispensable part of integrative medical care. However, they can cause undesirable and even dangerous side effects.  This is why people using oils medically should seek specialized training.”

So don’t think essential oils are safe because they are “natural.” Before you use them on your dog, you need to know which oils you can use … and how.

How To Use Essential Oils For Dogs

Essential oils can help your dog with many issues but they’re also very powerful. Be sure to use safe handling principles … or consult an aromatherapy expert so that you don’t risk harming your dog. Always wash your hands after handling essential oils.

Caution: Because essential oils are so popular, there are some bad manufacturers. Some oils can contain contaminants or adulterants, and can cause a more serious adverse reaction. Always use high quality oils from reputable companies. A good company will be happy to answer questions about their product.

Use Diluted Oils
Your dog’s sense of smell is hundreds of times more sensitive than yours so be sure to use diluted oils. Here’s canine herbalist Rita Hogan’s recommendation for topical use of essential oils:

Use a 0.5% to a 1% dilution. This means 3 to 6 drops of essential oil per ounce of a carrier oil. She recommends using almond, coconut or apricot kernel oil.

For internal use, read the cautions in the link below.

RELATED: Be aware of the dangers of undiluted essential oils for dogs …

Which Essential Oils Are Safe For Dogs?

Before using essential oils, check with your holistic vet if your dog has severe or persistent symptoms you’re trying to handle. Also, make sure your vet knows what other natural products you’re using for your dog. This will help you avoid any interactions with other remedies.

Many essential oils have similar healing properties, so if your dog rejects one scent, there may be another one he tolerates better. And NEVER give these oils orally to your dog. Some are considered safe when used topically or diffused, but can still be toxic if licked or swallowed.

Here are some essential oils that are safe for short-term or first aid use …

Best Essential Oils For Dogs

  • Lavender: Calming, helps with anxiety and stress, burns, ulcers, insomnia, car ride anxiety and motion sickness.
  • Cardamom: Aids in digestion, heartburn, nausea, colic, coughs and freshens breath.
  • Fennel: Helps the adrenals and balances pituitary, thyroid and pineal glands. It can also break up toxins and fluid in tissue, supports digestion and freshens breath.
  • Helichrysum: It’s anti-bacterial and can reduce bleeding after an accident, helps regenerate skin and repair nerves. It’s also useful in heart disease.
  • Frankincense: This has helped some cases of cancer and works on the immune system. It can reduce tumors and external ulcers as well as increase blood supply to the brain … although it can worsen high blood pressure, so use caution. Its anti-inflammatory properties have helped in cases of arthritis and asthma.
  • Spearmint: Preferable to peppermint as less menthol makes it less pungent. It helps to reduce weight, balance metabolism and stimulate the gallbladder. It can also be used for colic, diarrhea and nausea. 
  • Chamomile: Soothing, aids in relaxation and digestion.
  • Ginger: Aids in digestion, relieves nausea and motion sickness.
  • Lemon Balm: Calming, aids in digestion and relaxation.
  • Myrrh: Antimicrobial, helps with skin infections and inflammation.

Best Calming Essential Oils For Dogs

  • Clary Sage: Hormone-balancing, promotes relaxation.
  • Marjoram: Supports muscle relaxation, eases pain.
  • Valerian: Calming, aids in anxiety and sleep issues.
  • Patchouli: Soothes skin irritations, promotes relaxation.
  • Bergamot: Uplifting, helps with mood and anxiety.
  • Rose or Rosewood: Promotes emotional balance, soothes skin.
  • Sandalwood: Calming, promotes relaxation and skin health.
  • Neroli: Calming, promotes relaxation and skin health.
  • Sweet Orange or Tangerine: Uplifting, helps with anxiety and depression.
  • Lemongrass: Insect repellent, promotes calmness.

Best Essential Oils To Repel Fleas and Mosquitoes

Lavender, lemongrass and peppermint (or spearmint) have strong scents to repel insects. Other options to repel insects and fleas include:

  • Eucalyptus (in low dilutions and with caution): Supports respiratory health, repels insects.
  • Cedarwood: Repels fleas and ticks, promotes relaxation.
  • Geranium: Repels ticks and fleas, may help with skin conditions.
  • Rosemary: Supports cognitive function, repels fleas (don’t feed). Avoid for dogs with epilepsy.
  • Basil: Supports focus and concentration, repels insects.
  • Thyme: Supports respiratory health, repels insects.
  • Juniper Berry: Supports urinary health, repels insects.
  • Hyssop: Supports respiratory health, repels insects (don’t feed).

What Essential Oils Are Bad For Dogs?

Dogs metabolize and react differently to essential oils. Some essential oils contain compounds that can be harmful to dogs if swallowed, inhaled or even used topically. Remember there’s a huge difference in strength between an essential oil and the plant it came from, even if the whole herb is safe for your dog. 

Always be cautious with so-called “hot” oils like cinnamon, oregano, clove, wintergreen, thyme or birch. Their possible side effects are shown below, as well as other oils you should only use with caution or under expert guidance. In general, it’s safest to avoid them.

  • Cinnamon: Irritation to the skin, mouth, and digestive system, liver damage.
  • Oregano: Gastrointestinal upset, liver damage, skin irritation.
  • Clove: Liver damage, difficulty breathing, bleeding disorders.
  • Wintergreen: Aspirin-like effects, gastrointestinal issues, neurological problems.
  • Thyme: Gastrointestinal upset, irritation to the skin and mucous membranes.
  • Birch: Skin irritation, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures.
  • Tea Tree (melaleuca) oil: Toxicity, skin irritation, neurological problems.
  • Eucalyptus: Respiratory distress, drooling, vomiting, weakness.
  • Clove: Liver damage, difficulty breathing, bleeding disorders.
  • Cinnamon: Irritation to the skin, mouth, and digestive system, liver damage.
  • Citrus (eg, lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit): Skin irritation, gastrointestinal upset, photosensitivity.
  • Pennyroyal: Liver failure, seizures, organ damage, miscarriage (if ingested by pregnant dogs).
  • Pine: Irritation to the skin, respiratory issues, vomiting, weakness.
  • Peppermint (in high concentrations): Gastrointestinal upset, liver damage, respiratory issues.
  • Camphor: Neurological problems, seizures, liver damage.
  • Garlic: Hemolytic anemia, gastrointestinal upset, liver damage.
  • Mustard: Gastrointestinal issues, skin irritation, oral burns.
  • Nutmeg: Central nervous system depression, tremors, seizures, hallucinations.
  • Thuja: Contains a neurotoxin, causes vomiting, diarrhea, kidney damage.
  • Basil: Gastrointestinal upset, skin irritation, potential liver damage.
  • Juniper: Kidney damage, gastrointestinal upset, skin irritation.
  • Citronella: Gastrointestinal upset, skin irritation, potential central nervous system depression.
  • Rue: Gastrointestinal upset, skin irritation, potential liver damage.
  • Yarrow: Skin irritation, potential gastrointestinal upset, liver damage.
  • Tarragon: Gastrointestinal upset, potential skin irritation.

When Less Is More

Dr Palmquist finds that pet owners can run into trouble with good intentions …

 “One problem we see in our clinic involves people overusing oils. A person discovers essential oils and begins to diffuse the oils into their homes leading to an unintentional overdose for their pets. Some essential oils can cause liver and kidney toxicity in sensitive species.”

“To reduce the chances of sensitivity and organ toxicity, we generally use an oil for no more than two weeks and then provide a rest period.”

“Under certain circumstances … like in the treatmen of cancer … we will use oils for longer periods, but this is something best left to those trained in the use of oils.”

You can read Dr. Palmquist’s full article here.

The Benefits Of Soil-Based Probiotics For Dogs

The importance of gut health is becoming well known, so many vets recommend probiotics for dogs these days. That means there’s an overwhelming choice of probiotic supplements available.

But there’s one kind of probiotic that’s got some unique abilities you won’t find in other products … and that’s soil-based probiotics. This type of probiotic is made from soil-based organisms. And soil-based probiotics for dogs can help with some specific health problems.

What Are Soil-Based Probiotics?

Soil-based probiotics are made from soil-based organisms (SBOs). These are bacterial organisms naturally found in soil and water. SBOs help support plants by breaking down organic material. And they fight pathogens and provide vitamins to help plants and animals thrive.

These organisms were once a natural part of the food we ate. Vegetables grew in healthy soil and weren’t scrubbed before eating. Meat wasn’t washed before cooking. So we got healthy SBOs in our meals. The bacteria we ate helped support the good bacteria in our guts. And that helped our bodies resist disease.

But modern farming has changed all that. These days, SBOs are destroyed by crop chemicals and herbicides, food processing and pasteurization. The agricultural food industry has become so focused on sanitizing our food that this healthy “dirt” is gone from modern diets. And that’s just as true for your dog.

Dogs love to get dirty … they roll and dig in the mud, drink from filthy puddles … even eat dirt. So maybe their instincts tell them that dirt is good for them. And they’re right! People who garden and kids who play in the dirt are usually healthier than their hand-sanitizing, germ-phobic counterparts. So it’s great to let your dog do some digging and rolling. But there’s another way to get her the same benefits.

The good news is … you can replace these lost organisms by feeding your dog soil-based probiotics. They play a vital role in your dog’s health.

The most common bacteria in soil based probiotics are Bacillus species. Bacillus strains have been shown to support both human and animal microbiomes. 

Top Reasons Dogs Need Soil-Based Probiotics

Here are the top 10 reasons to add soil-based probiotics (SBOs) to your dog’s diet.

#1 Support A Healthy Gut

Gut health should be at the top of everyone’s health plan. It’s the same for your dog. SBOs provide powerful support for your dog’s microbiome … the population of beneficial bacteria that live in her gut. Feeding soil-based probiotics helps to build strong bacteria colonies in your dog’s gut. About 90% of your dog’s immune system lives in her gut. So these colonies are the foundation of your dog’s immune system, protecting her from disease.

Beneficial bacteria control “bad” bacteria, viruses, and other invaders. They’re like bouncers in your dog’s gut … stopping the rowdies from joining the party.

#2 Manage SIBO

Soil-based probiotics are ideal to manage conditions like SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth). With SIBO, bacteria spread to the the small intestine … where they can cause digestive problems for your dog. Other types of probiotics make SIBO worse, because they feed the bacteria in the small intestine, helping them multiply.

SBOs are spore-forming bacteria. They have a seed-like shell that protects them in just about any environment. (Scientists even found Bacillus subtilis could survive in space for up to 6 years!) This protective shell helps SBOs survive their journey until they arrive safely at the colon. So they don’t feed the bacteria in your dog’s small intestine.

This makes soil-based probiotics the one probiotic that can manage SIBO in your dog effectively.

#3 Support Brain Health

The gut is often described as the second brain, because gut health has such an impact on brain health. Studies are proving that link … and It’s the reason people with chronic conditions like irritable bowel syndrome often suffer from depression or anxiety. And now, research confirms Bacillus species can produce norepinephrine and dopamine to support healthy brain function.

So supporting your dog’s gut with soil-based probiotics can help his behavior as well.

#4 Strengthen The Immune System

You now know soil-based probiotics strengthen your dog’s immune system by balancing her microbiome. But Bacillus strains in soil-based probiotics play especially important roles in the immune system. Bacillus strains have some valuable properties, such as …

  • Strong antibacterial action
  • Potent antioxidant effects to repair cell damage
  • Immune cell regulators

Feeding soil-based probiotics also helps the immune system build antibodies. Studies show soil-based probiotics increase production of immunoglobulin A (IgA), which helps repair pathways protect your dog’s gut lining. In the livestock industry, they’ve even found Bacillus can boost pigs’ immune function by improving intestinal mucosa structure and tight junctions. So soil-based probiotics can help prevent immune-damaging leaky gut.

Soil-based probiotics are especially useful if you’ve given your dog any antibiotics or vaccinations. You should also feed SBOs during stressful times like travel or competition.

#5 Fight Superbugs

If your dog gets an infection, your vet will likely prescribe antibiotics. But these meds wipe out all of the bacteria in the body, including the good guys. That upsets the balance of bacteria in the microbiome, weakening your dog’s immune system. So, if your dog’s ever taken antibiotics, she’ll be at risk for other illnesses.

But there’s good news. You can avoid antibiotics in this situations … because research shows Bacillus strains can be effective against diarrhea … even from superbugs like C. difficile. And remember … they also reinforce the good gut bacteria while killing the bad.

#6 Reduce Antibiotic Damage

If you do need to give your dog antibiotics for any reason, soil-based probiotics like Bacillus are the best choice of probiotics to protect her gut. That’s because Bacillus spores shield them from antibiotic damage. So you can give them to your dog at the same time as antibiotics … without worrying the antibiotics and probiotics will interfere with each other.

#7 Manage Yeast

SBOs can help dogs who suffer from yeast overgrowth. Yeast often stems from past vaccines and antibiotics that wiped out all the good bacteria. So if you’ve been struggling with yeast in your dog, feeding SBOs can help restore that balance.

#8 Antioxidant For Cell Repair

Bacillus‘ antioxidant support helps your dog’s body fight cell damage from oxidation. Oxidation is a normal part of your dog’s metabolism … but it needs to be controlled.

Oxidation causes damaged cells in your dog to create free radicals. Free radicals are cells that are missing a molecule … which they try to steal from other cells. That can lead to more damaged cells and even harm your dog’s DNA. Environmental toxins can increase the effects of oxidation as well.

Oxidation leads to premature aging and a weakened immune system. But SBOs can help repair damaged cells. Research has found that certain Bacillus strains can promote intestinal tissue repair and antioxidant activity.

#9 Control Inflammation

Soil-based probiotics are potent tools against inflammation.

Inflammation is a normal response that helps the body heal … but when it becomes chronic, it can cause long-term health problems for your dog. Most disease stems from chronic inflammation. If your dog has chronic inflammation anywhere in her body it puts her at risk for problems like autoimmune disease or cancer. SBOs can help control your dog’s inflammation levels.

Research shows that Bacillus strains can prevent and manage rheumatoid arthritis in rats. Bacillus significantly lowered production of pro-inflammatory immune cells in one study. This means SBOs prevent the body from over-reacting to stress triggers … allowing it to heal without excess inflammation.

Some of the most common chronic inflammatory issues in dogs are:

  • Allergies
  • Leaky gut
  • Inflammatory Bowel Disease
  • Auto-immune diseases

Feeding soil-based organisms regularly can help reduce your dog’s inflammation and discomfort.

PRO TIP
Adding prebiotics offers even more support to heal your dog’s gut. Prebiotics feed the probiotics so they can perform at their best. Feeding both ensures your dog gets the maximum benefit from her SBOs.

RELATED: 6 Natural Prebiotics For Dogs: Why Probiotics Aren’t Enough!

#10 Help Fight Cancer

Soil-based probiotics’ immune-boosting and anti-inflammatory actions help protect your dog from cancer. But they can combat cancer cells in other ways too.

Researchers have found anti-cancer effects in many Bacillus strains. One study showed novel Bacillus strains inhibited ovarian and colorectal cancer cells … suggesting Bacillus bacteria are promising anticancer agents against several cancer types.

Bacillus probiotics secrete a surfactin-like compound. Surfactin is a lipopeptide with anti-cancer activity. Bacillus subtilis can also inhibit the growth of human breast cancer cells. Soil-based probiotics have also been shown to improve the benefits of other nutraceuticals given at the same time. That means your dog will get the most out of all of her cancer supplements.

Buy Soil-Based Probiotics For Your Dog

It’s becoming easier to find soil-based probiotics for dogs in retail stores and online. Just make sure you review the ingredients in the product before you buy it. You’ll want to look for organically sourced ingredients with no added fillers.

And remember the power of prebiotics, which feed the probiotics to help them thrive. In fact, one study found prebiotics given with Bacillus coagulans helped reduce inflammation in inflammatory bowel diseases. So look for a product that includes prebiotics in the mix.

RELATED: Learn which probiotics work best for dogs …

Soil-Based Probiotics Dose For Dogs

If your dog’s probiotic is soil-based, then 1 or 2 billion CFU (colony forming units) should be plenty. Your dog shouldn’t need more than this.

Soil-based probiotics don’t need as many CFU in soil-based probiotics as other probiotics like Lactobacillus. This is because of the spore-forming ability of Bacillus species that allows them to travel to your dog’s colon, unharmed by the acidic environment. On the other hand, other probiotic species are extremely fragile and few make it through the digestive tract intact.

Giving your dog soil-based organisms can be a powerful ally in helping her fight disease. And don’t forget to let her play in the dirt as well … that way she’ll get some truly natural SBOs.

Julia Henriques

Julia Henriques is Managing Editor of Dogs Naturally Magazine. After studying at Madrid University in Spain, she spent 35 years in international banking before joining Dogs Naturally Magazine in 2010. She’s on the Board of Playing Again Sams (Wisconsin Samoyed Rescue) where she enjoys helping adopters and group members choose natural health care options for their dogs. She lives in Chicago with her partner Marc and rescue Samoyeds Tarka and Otis.

Dog eye infection: Home remedy & identification of eye discharge

by Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM

How to treat eye discharge without antibiotics

Eye discharge is one of the most common problems in dogs. Whenever a client came in with concerns about their dog’s eyes, the first question I asked was what they felt was happening. Most people replied that they were concerned about their dog having an eye infection and this made me realize I needed to write a blog to clarify some misconceptions.

First, I’m not planning to rediscover the universe here, neither am I eager to make things more complex. What I would like to do today is bring more clarity to what you may call conjunctivitis, eye discharge, redness or an eye infection.

Did you know that 90 percent of all canine eye conditions end up being simple conjunctivitis (inflammation of the conjuctiva) and varied eye discharges?

What needs to be done first before we jump to the conclusion of conjunctivitis is a thorough examination. I don’t recommend taking chances, so I always perform an eye exam personally or have it done by another practitioner such as when I was providing advice via remote consultations.

A routine eye exam includes ophthalmoscopy, which is a term for light examination of the structures of the eye, a fluorescein dye test, which rules out any scratches, ulcers or obstruction of the cornea and intraocular pressure measurement to rule out glaucoma if your pet is in obvious discomfort.

If these tests come out negative, you can use a very simple treatment that will not cost you a lot of money, neither will you need to be using antibiotics or steroid medications, which are commonly overused. If you do feel pressure from your veterinarian to use antibiotics, remember you are in charge of the decision and any vet should be giving you recommendations only, not make you feel guilty because your decision is different than what he or she would choose.

Home Remedy to Treat Eye Infection & Discharge 

In several of my blogs I have mentioned that healing should be ideally simple. If you see discharges, especially in puppies most of the time means some sort of form of cleansing unless your veterinarian discovers a scratch, corneal ulcer, inverted eyelashes, hair falling in the eyes because it is too long, obstructed tear ducts and other conditions mentioned above.

Most of the time, you can follow these three simple steps to treat dog eye discharge concerns:

  1. Get an Exam: Rule out a serious eye condition by getting an exam done.
  2. Cleanse: Detox, cleanse and neutralize whatever doesn’t  belong in the body naturally.
  3. Rebalance: Rebalance and provide what is missing as high-quality nutrients, natural vitamins or minerals.
Florida French Bulldog puppies for sale
The anatomy of an eye

Most of the problem conditions that are seen in daily practice relate to the conjunctiva, eyelids and cornea. Conjunctiva is the layer of tissue on the inside of the eyelids that connects directly to the cornea, the clear layer covering the eye.

The inner structures of the eye are a little more complex. The sequence of the parts of the eye are as follows: cornea, anterior chamber (the space in front of the lens), the iris, the lens that is attached to the eye by a very sophisticated focusing system, called an iridocorneal muscle, then there is the posterior chamber, filled with a clear translucent mass, called vitreous body and beyond is the retina, the canvas of the eye that is connected to the optic nerve conducting the visual images to the brain’s visual center and the cortex.

The functions of the eye

Most people see the eye as an organ of vision but, there is another important function – cleansing. In fact, many openings of the body, including the eye, serve as cleansing and detoxification areas. If the body needs to get rid of impurities it does it really well through the eyes, ears, feces, urine, lungs and saliva.

This cleansing process is usually manifested by increased local inflammation and redness that is often misperceived as an infection. Most of the cases my clients consider an eye infection are actually cleansing reactions of the body and have nothing to do with bacteria and infections.

This fact is often ignored and the most common conventional prescription for eye redness is, you guessed right, antibiotics and steroids. It may also surprise you that for the majority of cases this medication is unnecessary or even contraindicated.

The most common conditions of the outside structures of the eye are:
  1. Conjunctivitis due to a cleansing reaction, as a detoxification process. The body is simply trying to get rid of toxins, components of food, especially if you feed processed food that is not species-appropriate or poor quality.
  2. Redness can also occur in the case of digestive imbalances, external irritants and as part of vaccination side effects, which are usually manifested by typical greenish pus-like discharge.
  3. Obstruction of the tear ducts that start at the upper and lower eyelid at the inner corner of the eye is also a very common problem and the causes can sometimes be from a little speck of plant material.
  4. Trauma to the cornea, which can result in an abrasion or even corneal ulcer is also relatively common.
  5. Inverted or extroverted eyelids, called entropion or ectropion are common, especially in breeds that have suffered the consequences of poor breeding focused on looks. Silly, but true.
  6. Infections can also be the result of eye irritation and conjunctivitis, but in my opinion true bacterial and viral eye infections are present only in a small fraction of dogs that present with eye irritation, discharge and inflammation.
Conditions of the infrastructures of the eye

Conditions that affect the infrastructure of the eye are not necessarily the main topic of this article, however, I would like to mention them briefly because they often resemble conjunctivitis.

  1. One of the most common problems that is overlooked is glaucoma, which is a condition where the intraocular pressure increases and threatens the eye and the vision itself. Glaucoma is usually painful and the redness of the eye is more deep and diffused. A proper diagnosis can only be obtained by a thorough examination and the intraocular blood-pressure measurement. This condition can be eye threatening and needs immediate attention.
  2. Some people mistake cataracts with glaucoma, which is a condition that affects the texture and transparency of the lens. Many of my readers often wonder if Skai is wearing his dog goggles – “Doggles” just for fun or fashion and I can’t emphasize enough that he wears them mainly to protect his eyes from UV damage.
Beware of a collar that is too tight

I mentioned before that most cases of redness could be related to the cleansing processes. I will repeat once again that the most common causes are from diet, vaccines, imbalances, digestive tract problems, toxin buildup and the effect of a collar that is too tight.

Yes, believe it or not, a collar that is too tight can be a reason for your dog’s eyes to be congested, full of discharge and red. All you need to do to is to grip your neck and tighten your hands around it as if you were trying to strangle yourself. You will feel the blood stagnation in the head, which will decrease drainage of conjunctiva and can cause discharges. Sometimes all we need to do is loosen our dog’s collar so it doesn’t obstruct the cervical veins that drain blood from the head. Many dogs suffer because of human ignorance. I put choke chains, prong collars or  even shock collars on the same level as medieval torture devices that should only be used for demonstration on those people who put them on their dogs.  Harnesses are the way to go.

Diet deserves special attention

Many people believe that if a bag of processed food is labeled organic or natural  it must be good. That isn’t true because even mainstream pet food companies jumped on the bandwagon of natural foods, while the quality and nutritional value of such food are poor. A quality raw or cooked diet is the best you can do for your animal friend. A healthy digestive tract, liver and immune system are the key to reducing eye discharges.

My favorite cleansing formula for most dogs is this liver cleanse protocol. 

Rinsing and flushingAnother important part of the cleansing process is helping the body get rid of impurities and toxins through flushing and rinsing the eyes. In fact, you do not need fancy solutions, ointments or even complex herbal preparations for the eyes. What works really well is a sterile saline solution with about five drops of Eyebright (Euphrasia tincture) and about three drops of goldenseal (hydrastis) per a cup of saline solution.

Reduce or eliminate vaccination and its side effects

Especially in young dogs, I recommend minimum vaccination.  

If your dog has been vaccinated, it is possible that the greenish discharge is in fact related to vaccine side effects. I’ve had countless cases where health issues completely disappeared after administration of Thuja 200 C. This homeopathic remedy is known to neutralize the side effects of vaccines and I usually give two doses 12 hours apart.

If these simple steps do not resolve the problem I highly recommend you see your veterinarian.

No matter what you do, try not to suppress the immune system with steroids because they have a long-term negative effect on the immune system and the body on a deep level. Using corticosteroids can be compared to removing the light bulbs from your car’s dashboard when your car’s engine is overheating.

Provide high-quality supplements

Besides a wholesome and complete diet, I recommend providing your dog with what he or she needs with a good selection of high-quality supplements.

There is a huge difference between synthetically-made supplements and those that are grown and designed by nature. Did you know that most of the vitamins on the market are made from chemicals? These supplements need to be replaced with natural ones in order to cleanse the body and stop eye discharges.

Here are the supplements that my dog Skai gets:

Essentials for your dog

No matter if you feed organic or non-organic veggies, nutrients, especially mineral depletion is highly likely without all-natural supplements. Eye discharges may in many cases be a sign of deficiency or the presence of toxic heavy metals. Here is what you can do:

  1. Supplement all-natural, plant-based minerals such as GreenMin.
  2. Add all-natural, certified organic multi-vitamins such as SoulFood.
  3. Use GutSense to balance your dog’s digestive tract.
  4. Mercury and toxin-free omega oils.
Find out what is your dog missing

Find out your dog’s mineral and heavy metal levels by getting a HairQ test done.

Summary

I can’t emphasize enough that many medical conditions are not what they appear to be. It is definitely that way in many eye conditions labeled eye infections. All you need to do is to listen to the body, observe its patterns and act according to the natural principles of healing which are:

  1. Detox with a liver cleanse.
  2. Learn how to feed an all-natural diet.
  3. Provide GreenMin, SoulFood, FeelGood Omega oil and GutSense.
  4. Rebalance the body using a Perfect Fit Harness and take your dog for regular visits with a chiropractor.

You will be surprised how many dogs’ eye discharges get better just with taking these above steps.

Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM 

About the author

Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM is an Integrative veterinarian, nutritionist and creator of natural supplements for dogs and people. Helping you and your dog prevent disease, treat nutritional deficiencies, and enjoy happier, healthier, and longer lives together.

The Hidden Danger in Your Pet’s Food Bowl

STORY AT-A-GLANCE

  • If you buy ultraprocessed pet food for your dog or cat, you’re actually buying animal feed by another name; it’s important to know the difference between feed and food, especially when it comes to contaminants like aflatoxins
  • Aflatoxin contamination has been the cause of many major disease outbreaks and pet food/feed recalls over the last 20+ years, and are known to cause acute toxic illness and cancer in both animals and humans
  • The five pet food/feed ingredients most like to be contaminated by aflatoxins: corn, peanuts, cottonseed meal, tree nuts, and oilseeds
  • Aflatoxicosis is chiefly a disease of the liver, causing gastrointestinal (GI) symptoms, reproductive issues, anemia, and jaundice
  • Additional “unavoidable” contaminants in pet food/feed: arsenic, mercury, PCBs, BPA, dioxins

The ultraprocessed pet food industry is actually in the business of selling feed, not food. It’s important to understand the difference between the two.

Susan Thixton of Truth About Pet Food points out that with the exception of dogs and cats, human-provided nourishment for almost every other species is called “feed,” e.g., horse feed, cattle feed, poultry feed, etc. But for some reason, when it comes to animal companions, it’s called “food.”

“Food is what humans eat, so perhaps the intent was — from the very beginning — to cause the consumer to think pet food is similar to human food — nothing like a cattle feed or poultry feed,” writes Thixton. “We want to provide our pets a safer, more quality ‘food’… right? Here begins the problem for the consumer.”1

Thixton explains that it wasn’t until the late 1950’s that the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), the organization that develops pet food/animal feed ingredient definitions, regulations, and labeling requirements, established the Pet Food Committee. But despite setting up a separate regulatory group, AAFCO has always and continues to view pet food as simply a “specialty product” of animal feed — not different in any significant way.

For more information on the differences between feed and food, including the contaminants that are allowed in feed for animals (including pets), but not food for humans, check out Susan’s page linked above.

About Those Contaminants

Now that you’re aware that most ultraprocessed pet food is actually feed, let’s take a look at a recent headline in a pet food industry journal:

“How to deal with feed ingredients prone to aflatoxin contamination: Find out which animal feed ingredients are more prone to aflatoxin contamination, when the risk of contamination is higher and strategies to mitigate its effects on animals.”2

Aflatoxin contamination has been the reason behind a number of regional pet food recalls and several major disease outbreaks over the past 20+ years. Aflatoxins are naturally occurring mycotoxins produced by the Aspergillus flavus and Aspergillus parasiticus fungi and are the most extensively researched mycotoxins in the world.

Aflatoxins are known to cause acute toxic illness and cancer in animals and humans and are considered among the most carcinogenic substances on the planet. Cats and dogs are more sensitive to aflatoxins than many other animals.

Aflatoxins frequently contaminate agricultural crops before they are harvested. Conditions that promote pre-harvest contamination include high temperatures, prolonged periods of drought, and insect activity. Aflatoxins can also be a problem after harvesting if the crop stays wet for too long. And they can grow on stored crops if the moisture level is too high and mold develops.

The pet food industry journal article lists five animal feed ingredients that are susceptible to aflatoxin contamination:3

  1. Corn can be easily contaminated by mycotoxins and especially aflatoxins. The risk is even higher in warm and humid climates. Aflatoxins proliferate on corn when it is exposed to moisture and stored improperly.
  2. Peanuts are also highly susceptible to aflatoxin contamination, as they are often grown in conditions conducive to mold growth. Aflatoxins can accumulate on raw peanuts and peanut meal used in animal feed.
  3. Cottonseed meal can be contaminated with aflatoxins during the harvesting and storage processes. As a large part of cottonseeds are used in dairy nutrition, care should be taken to avoid their transfer to milk.
  4. Tree nuts (almonds, walnuts, and pistachios) are at risk of aflatoxin contamination, particularly if they come into contact with moisture. These are not fed to animals, but byproducts are infrequently found in animal feeds, often at high quantities (locally).
  5. Oilseeds such as sunflower, rapeseed and soybeans, can become contaminated with aflatoxins under the right conditions.

It’s worth noting that aflatoxicosis is more common in dogs than cats because commercial dog food formulas more often contain corn products.

As of the end of January 2021, 110 pets in the U.S. had died and another 210 had been sickened from apparently lethal levels of aflatoxins in Sportmix brand dog or cat food produced by Midwestern Pet Foods based in Evansville, IN. The aflatoxin contamination is presumably confined to corn products in Midwestern’s Oklahoma plant.4 The contaminated foods may also have been shipped to 35 other nations around the globe.

Symptoms to Watch for and Pet Feed Ingredients to Avoid

Aflatoxicosis is chiefly a disease of the liver, causing gastrointestinal (GI) symptoms, reproductive issues, anemia, and jaundice. Certain types of aflatoxins are linked to cancer in animals.

If your dog or cat ingests food contaminated with aflatoxins, you can anticipate one or more of the following symptoms:

  • Severe, persistent vomiting
  • Sluggishness
  • Bloody diarrhea
  • Discolored urine
  • Lack of appetite
  • Jaundice, especially around the whites of the eyes, gum, and belly
  • Fever

If you think your pet has eaten potentially contaminated food, even if he’s showing no symptoms of illness, get him to your veterinarian or an emergency vet clinic as soon as possible. And bring the food with you.

I recommend that pets exposed to aflatoxins receive ozone therapy, hyperbaric oxygen treatments, intravenous (IV) vitamin C and oral glutathione, chlorella, and charcoal, all of which help to naturally detoxify the body and assist in cellular repair.

If you feed kibble to your pet (which I only recommend if you cannot afford a better quality food), be sure to study the ingredient list carefully and avoid brands containing grains or corn in any form, including corn gluten meal, whole grain corn, corn flour, etc.

Along with the increased risk of aflatoxin contamination, corn is a notoriously allergenic food that is difficult for many animals to digest. Also avoid formulas containing cereal grains like maize, sorghum, pearl millet, rice, and wheat.

Many inexpensive, low quality pet foods rely heavily on all these ingredients. Many treats also contain these ingredients, including organic “cookies” (made from organic whole wheat or rice), which are an under-represented potential source of toxicosis, in my opinion.

Inevitable, ‘Unavoidable’ Pet Food Contaminants

The ultraprocessed pet food industry admits that unwanted toxins inevitably make their way into dog, cat, and other pet foods, and “some level of contamination is unavoidable.” The list of “ingredients and substances” pet food manufacturers should try to avoid includes “arsenic, mercury, PCB, BPA, dioxin and aflatoxin.”5

Needless to say, among the many reasons to seriously consider switching from ultraprocessed diets to fresh food for furry family members, unwanted toxins are high up the list. We’ve examined aflatoxins — now let’s take a closer look at the remaining five inevitable and “unavoidable” contaminants.

  1. Arsenic — Arsenic is a heavy metal mineral. Inorganic arsenic is often found in products like herbicides, insecticides, wood preservatives, and some types of insulation. Organic arsenic is used in certain drugs to treat or prevent blood parasites, including heartworm.

    In some cases of poisoning in pets, an animal inadvertently ingests a product containing arsenic that is lying around. However more commonly, sublethal doses are consistently consumed, and toxicity occurs slowly, over a long period of time (such as when a dog or cat eats grass that is regularly treated with herbicides containing arsenic).

    The main source of arsenic exposure is from conventionally raised (nonorganic), factory farmed chickens. Arsenic is added to commercial chicken feed to inhibit mold and fungi in many countries, and it’s passed up the food chain.
  2. Mercury — Mercury is a naturally occurring substance, but it’s toxic, nonetheless. It’s released into the air and the oceans primarily though burning coal. Seafood is the most common route of exposure for both people and pets. Studies have revealed high levels of mercury in both dog and cat food.

    To limit your pet’s exposure to mercury, my advice is to be very choosy about the fish you feed, and I certainly don’t recommend feeding an exclusive diet of fish protein to dogs or cats (unless you’re making your pet’s food and choosing low-contaminant seafood). However, fish are a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential to your pet’s well-being. If you supplement with fish, I suggest using sardines packed in water. Sardines don’t live long enough to store toxins in their bodies, and they’re a terrific source of omega-3s.

    If you choose not to feed any fish, I recommend you supplement your pet’s diet with krill oil or another omega-3 fatty acid that’s been third-party validated as contaminant-free and sustainably sourced.
  3. PCBs (Polychlorinated Biphenyl) — Fish-flavored pet food has also been found to contain PCBs. Dr. Jean Hofve of Little Big Cat explains how this occurs:“New research suggests that cats are especially sensitive to PBDEs (which, among other things, are used as fire retardants in carpeting and furniture), chemicals found at higher levels in both canned and dry cat foods than dog foods; and more in dry than canned cat foods.Fish-based foods are even worse, because marine organisms produce PDBEs naturally and can bioaccumulate up the food chain to high levels in fish; this compounds the exposure cats get from fabrics and dust.Predatory fish at the top of the food chain, such as tuna and salmon, may contain very elevated levels of heavy metals (including mercury) as well as PCBs, pesticides, and other toxins.Tilefish (listed on pet food labels as ‘ocean whitefish’) are among the worst contaminated, along with king mackerel, shark, and swordfish.Recent research found high levels of PCBs in dry and canned pet foods. Scientists also found that cats retain PCB metabolites in their blood longer than dogs.”6
  4. BPA (Bisphenol A) — Bisphenol A is an industrial chemical found in a wide range of household products that affect everyone in the home, including hard plastic water and baby bottles, and plastic pet food and water bowls. It’s also found in the epoxy resins used as coatings inside food and drink cans, including pet food containers.

    BPA has the ability to imitate the body’s hormones, especially estrogen, in ways that are damaging to the health of both humans and animals. For most animals, including humans, exposure to BPA occurs primarily through diet. A 2017 study conducted by researchers at the University of Missouri concluded that even a short-term (two week) feeding of canned dog food results in a significant increase (three-fold) of BPA in dogs.

    To protect your whole family from BPA exposure, avoid canned foods and don’t store food in No. 7 plastics (you can find a chart of plastic types here). You can provide ongoing BPA detoxification support by offering foods rich in Lactobacillus acidophilus (kefir and yogurt)7 and glutathione-rich foods (including culinary and medicinal mushrooms).8
  5. Dioxins — Dioxins are created during many industrial processes when chlorine or bromine are burned in the presence of carbon and oxygen. These environmental pollutants can disrupt the delicate signaling of both male and female sex hormones in the body.

    Unfortunately, dioxins are found in much of the U.S. food supply. Factory-produced meat, fish, milk, eggs, and butter are the products most likely to be contaminated, so offer your pets (and yourself) as much organic food as possible.

Does Your Pet Need a Detoxification Program?

The world is becoming more polluted every day, and while we can’t control all points of chemical exposure for our family members, we need to do what we can to reduce known risks.

Switching to nontoxic home and garden products, filtering the air and water in your home, and minimizing the chemicals you choose to put on and, in your pets, will cut down on tag-along contaminants.

The only way to know exactly what you are feeding your pet is to buy the ingredients yourself and prepare nutritionally complete meals at home (Meal Mix for Dogs makes this easy!). If you choose to support a pet food company, knowing if human-grade ingredients are used and what quality control steps are in place for contaminant testing will bring you peace of mind (or send you looking for another pet food company to support).

Your pet’s ability to clear accumulated toxins is based on the overall functioning of detoxification pathways. If those pathways aren’t working as they should, detoxification systems become stressed or completely overwhelmed. Fortunately, there are many ways you can assist your pet’s detoxification mechanisms to help them function optimally: 10 Ways to Help Your Pet’s Body Detoxify.

How Much To Feed A Puppy

Congratulations on welcoming a furry bundle of joy into your life! Now that you have a playful and adorable puppy by your side, it’s important to ensure your pup is getting the right nourishment. 

That’s why in this article we’ll answer the all-important question: how much to feed a puppy. 

From the appropriate portion sizes based on weight and age to the frequency of meals, we’ve got you covered.

RELATED: 5 tips for raising a puppy …

How Often to Feed a Puppy

Feeding your puppy is like embarking on a culinary adventure, where you get to nourish him and witness his growth. It’s exciting! But there are some rules of thumb you’ll want to keep in mind when dishing out your puppy portion sizes. 

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First of all, if you’re used to feeding adult dogs, it’s important to know that puppies have different needs. Their small stomachs and high energy levels require smaller, more frequent meals throughout the day. 

This means you’ll most likely be treating your puppy to three to four meals a day until he reaches around four to six months of age. As he grows older and his stomach capacity increases, you can gradually reduce the frequency to 2-3 meals a day.

Breed Matters

We’ll cover how much to feed a puppy in just a second. But first, you need to know that several factors determine your puppy’s portion size, including ….

  • Weight
  • Age
  • Breed

We’ll give you the scoop on age and weight below, but let’s touch on breed first.

Different dog breeds have different growth rates and metabolic rates, which can affect their dietary needs. 

For example, smaller breeds may require more calories per pound of body weight compared to larger breeds. So, if you have a tiny Chihuahua or a cute little Dachshund, he might need a bit more fuel to keep his energetic tail wagging.

Giant breed puppies also have special needs. Calcium deficiency or excess calcium can both lead to bone problems for growing giant dogs. Make sure you feed a diet formulated to support puppy growth, not an adult diet.  

So when we cover how much to feed a puppy by weight … or how much to feed a puppy by age in the next sections … remember that these are general guidelines. You’ll want to double check that they’re in line with your puppy’s breed. 

How Much To Feed A Puppy by Weight

Puppies, just like human babies, go through growth spurts, and their weight can change rapidly. So it’s important to weigh your pup regularly and keep track of his progress. 

Commercial Or Pre-Made Dog Food

If you’re feeding any kind of commercial dog food, whether kibble, canned, dehydrated, freeze-dried or raw, puppy food packaging usually gives some guidelines based on average weights. 

This is a good place to start, but remember that every puppy is unique, and you pup’s growth rate may be different from others. So you’ll need to watch your puppy’s body condition, and cut back or increase his portion size if he starts to look a bit chubby or skinny. 

Also, keep in mind that packaged foods vary greatly in nutritional density, especially if you compare kibble or canned foods to whole food raw or cooked diets. 

RELATED: Find the top 10 puppy foods …

Homemade Raw Or Cooked Puppy Food

If you’re feeding a homemade raw or cooked diet, a good guideline is that you should feed your puppy about 2-3% of his expected adult body weight. Or, if you’re not sure about his adult weight, feed about 10% of his current weight. Again, adjust the amounts if your puppy gains or loses weight. 

RELATED: 9 tips for starting your puppy on a raw diet …

How Much to Feed a Puppy by Age

Feeding by weight is a little more accurate, but it’s also helpful to use your pup’s age as a helpful guideline for how much to feed. 

Puppyhood is a time of rapid growth and development, so nutritional needs will vary from month to month. If you’re feeding a commercial or pre-made diet, follow the package instructions to start, and adjust as needed depending on your puppy’s body condition.

If you’re feeding a homemade raw or cooked diet, follow the same weight guideline. Give 2-3% of your puppy’s expected adult weight, or 10% of his current weight. Again, adjust as needed if your puppy gains too much weight or seems underweight. 

RELATED: Here’s a complete and balanced raw recipe you can use for puppies …

How Much to Feed a 2 Month Old Puppy

  • At two months old, puppies are still developing their digestive systems and require smaller, frequent meals. 
  • Aim to feed four times a day, focusing on high-quality, natural puppy food designed to support your puppy’s growth.

How Much to Feed a 3 Month Old Puppy

  • By three months, your puppy’s stomach capacity increases, allowing for larger meals. 
  • You can begin transitioning to three meals a day, adjusting the portion sizes accordingly.

How Much to Feed a 4 Month Old Puppy

  • At four months old, most puppies can be fed three times a day. 
  • It’s important to monitor their weight and adjust the portion sizes as needed to maintain a healthy growth rate.

How Much to Feed a 5 Month Old Puppy

  • As your puppy reaches five months, you can continue with three meals a day while monitoring his weight, body condition, and overall energy levels.
  • Again, adjustments may be necessary based on individual needs.

How Much to Feed a 6 Month Old Puppy

  • By six months, your pup is becoming more like a young adult dog. 
  • At this point, most puppies can transition to two meals a day.
  • Some larger breeds may still benefit from three meals to support their growth and energy requirements.

Keep in mind your puppy’s body condition is more important than any rule about how much to feed. Adjust your puppy’s meal sizes based on his individual metabolism and body type, remembering that nutritional requirements vary from dog to dog.

Final Cautions

You’ve got some great rules of thumb for how much to feed your puppy, and how often. 

As your pup grows, here are a few final things you’ll want to keep in mind:

Monitor Your Puppy’s Body Condition
The guidelines mentioned above are a helpful starting point, but it’s important to monitor your puppy’s body condition regularly. 

Remember that your pup should have a defined waistline when viewed from above, and you should be able to feel his ribs with a slight covering of flesh. 

If you notice your puppy becoming overweight or underweight, adjust portion sizes accordingly.

Remember To Include Treats
Treats are a fun and rewarding way to bond with your puppy, and they’re a great way to train. But they’re also technically part of your pup’s overall daily calorie intake. 

Treats should be given in moderation and accounted for in your dog’s daily food portion sizes. 

Transitioning to Adult Dog Food
As your puppy grows, his nutritional needs will change. For most puppies, it’s important to gradually transition them to a suitable adult dog food around the age of one year, or as recommended by your holistic vet.  

And finally … don’t forget to savor these puppy moments! Enjoy the mealtime wiggles and nourish your little companion with the love he deserves. You’ve got this!

Joanne Keenan

Joanne is a writer on the Dogs Naturally Content Team. For 20 years, she’s been committed to maintaining a multi-dog household reared on raw meat, whole foods and good manners. She coined “chew factor” as her method to keep her first puppy pair occupied by chewing on frozen raw bones. With interests in human and canine nutrition and fitness, she is finally using her journalism background to explore interests close to her heart and her dogs.

DIY Solutions To Stop Your Dog Throwing Up Undigested Food

Have you ever fed your dog after exercise and within a few seconds he spews it on the floor?   Or how about when your dog eats his meal and then soon after he throws up a tube of mucus?    

This is called regurgitation … and it’s a normal function of your dog’s digestive system.  

What Is Regurgitation?

Regurgitation when your dog brings up undigested food. It comes mainly from inside the esophagus … up through the mouth and out. It’s a normal process for dogs. Even so, when you’re in the moment, you might feel concerned.  This is especially true when the lines between regurgitation and vomiting are blurry.   

Before reviewing regurgitation in depth,  let’s quickly take a look at vomiting and how it’s different from regurgitation.

Is Your Dog Regurgitating Or Vomiting?

Here are some key differences between regurgitating and vomiting.

Regurgitation

The purpose of regurgitation is an adjustment. Regurgitating doesn’t involve any abdominal heaving. A dog’s esophagus allows for easy evacuation. And whatever food your dog regurgitates will look about the same as when he ate it. Regurgitated food hasn’t been digested.

Vomiting

Vomiting is your dog expelling a toxic or unwanted substance. It’s usually a sign of a digestive imbalance. Dogs have short digestive tracts that allow rapid toxin expulsion.  When your dog is about to vomit, you might see signs of nausea … like excessive drooling, lip smacking. Or the perplexed, worried vomit face we’ve all seen.  

Vomiting comes from the stomach and the upper intestines. Unlike regurgitated food, vomit is mostly digested food, plus bile and foam. It has a unique color, texture and smell. Many times, you’ll see your dog doing four-on-the-floor bracing while he expels the contents of his stomach.  

RELATED: For an in-depth look at vomiting, read my article here …

And there’s one other distinction I want to make …

Burping Or Excess Acid

Burping can also be confused with regurgitation … and it originates in the stomach.  Small amounts of food can come up with the gas.  Burping can happen for a number of reasons ..

  • Emotional upset
  • Lack of hydrochloric acid or other secretions
  • Excess fermentation of food in the stomach
  • Inflammation

But burping is a topic for another day … so let’s get back to regurgitating.

Throwing Up Undigested Food

The simple description of regurgitation is when your dog brings his food back up, shortly after eating it. This can also happen with fluids … with your dog spewing out water right after he has a big drink.

Note: I’m focusing on food regurgitation here … but check the When You Should Ask Your Vet section for some comments on fluid regurgitation.

Regurgitation can happen in seconds, minutes or within an hour. The timing often depends on what your dog ate … kibble, cooked homemade, processed raw or traditional raw … including bone. Bones and chews are especially subject to regurgitation. Your dog will eject them if they don’t sit right in his stomach … or if the bone or chew is too big to swallow. 

When your dog swallows something that’s too large, he simply brings it back up.  The expelled contents are usually stuck together, covered in mucus, and almost completely undigested. Even though it’s gross, it’s perfectly normal for your dog to re-eat his regurgitated food. He may tear it up into smaller pieces first.  

If your dog is kibble-fed, he may regurgitate compressed mucus-coated kibble pieces … shaped like his esophagus!  When your dog swallows, saliva and mucus help ease food through the esophagus into the stomach. 

Why Your Dog Throws Up Undigested Food

Regurgitation is a natural function of your dog’s body.  The cause of regurgitation can vary … so if your dog regurgitates often, it’s a good idea to keep a health journal. Write down some details like …

  • What your dog ate
  • How fast he regurgitated
  • Was he anxious or stressed
  • What it looked like
  • What it smelled like

Your journal will help you see any patterns. 

Here’s a list of possible reasons your dog may be more prone to regurgitate.

  • Anxiety and fear
  • Stress or nervous stomach
  • Unpalatable food or consistency
  • Eating too quickly
  • Drinking water too fast
  • Eating too soon after exercise
  • Inflammation of the esophagus
  • Intubation during surgery (can irritate the esophagus temporarily)

How To Stop Your Dog Regurgitating His Food

There are a few strategies you can use to try and stop your dog throwing up his food.

Give The Right Size Bones

Bone regurgitation is common. Raw meaty bones or recreational bones can cause regurgitating. If your dog’s a gulper, he may swallow them whole … and then quickly bring them back up again, covered in goo. Always try to give bones that are appropriately sized. And never feed rawhides or cooked or smoked bones.

Soak Kibble

If you feed any type of kibble or compressed food,  try adding warm water and letting it soak for at least 10 to 15 minutes. You can also use bone broth as a more nutritious way to do this. Adding moisture can help your dog get the kibble down.

Slow Him Down

Getting your dog to eat slowly is key to avoiding frequent regurgitation. It’s especially key with kibble or harder foods.  There are many types of slow-eating bowls or platters. Using one can go a long way in slowing your pup down.  You can also give smaller meals frequently throughout the day. Feeding from a raised bowl may help.

Caution: Some people believe raised bowls can increase the risk of bloat. So if you see any extra gassiness, go back to a bowl on the floor).

Often, you can avoid regurgitation by just warming your dog’s food … or letting it come to room temperature before feeding.  

When Should You Ask Your Vet About Regurgitation

Usually regurgitating undigested food isn’t anything to worry about. But there are rare times when regurgitation is a sign of a more serious condition. Here are some situations when it’s best to check with your vet.

Chronic regurgitation is when your dog can’t keep any food or fluids down for more than a few seconds … and it happens more than once or twice a week.  If your dog consistently regurgitates fluids, check with your vet. It can be due to an abnormality in the esophagus … or narrowing of the canal. Dogs can also have blockages and cancers of the esophagus. 

In some cases, regurgitation can lead to a condition called aspirated pneumonia. This means your dog inhales food particles into his lungs.  It’s common in short-snouted dogs like Pugs, Bulldogs, and Boston Terriers. Normally, the flap or sphincter that separates the esophagus and stomach keeps regurgitation from happening.  But sometimes, this flap can be forcefully opened by the stomach or your dog’s reflux reaction. This causes inflammation and deterioration of the mucosal lining. 

Addison’s disease can cause chronic regurgitation.  Addison’s is an autoimmune disease where the adrenal glands can’t produce the correct amount of the hormone cortisol.  

Megaesophagus (ME) is another condition that causes chronic regurgitation.  Yorkies and Miniature Pinschers are prone to this condition. In ME, the muscles of the esophagus weaken and food stays stuck instead of moving into the stomach.  Dogs with ME need to eat sitting upright so their esophagus can use gravity to get the food down.

If your dog’s regurgitation is accompanied by loss of appetite, lethargy, constipation or diarrhea, see your vet.

It’s important to know the difference between vomiting, burping and regurgitation. Remember, most of the time regurgitating is absolutely normal.  But if your dog is chronically throwing up undigested food, ask your vet to rule out a possible serious condition.

Rita Hogan

Rita Hogan is a clinical canine herbalist with over 20 years of experience specializing in holistic canine herbalism. She is an author, educator, speaker, formulator, and herbal medicine maker. Rita uses a combination of diet, flower essences, herbs, and phytoembryonic therapies addressing dogs’ mind, body, and spirit. Her full-time practice is based in Olympia, Washington. Connect with Rita at canineherbalist.com

When To Give Digestive Enzymes For Dogs

Have you considered giving digestive enzymes to your dog? Or perhaps you think he doesn’t need them. As far as you know, the food’s going in one end and out the other, so everything’s fine, right? 

Well … not always. In fact, your dog likely needs help absorbing nutrients from the food he eats. 

There are several reasons for this. So here are some facts about digestive enzymes for dogs … and when to use them. 

What Are Digestive Enzymes?
Your dog naturally produces digestive enzymes in his body. Digestive enzymes aren’t the only enzymes your dog’s body makes … but they’re some of the most important ones for his health.  

Digestive enzymes are proteins that help break down food molecules into smaller pieces. That fuels his body by helping it take in nutrients more efficiently.

Enzyme names all end in “-ase.” The main types of digestive enzymes dogs need are…

  • Protease, which breaks down proteins into amino acids so the body can use them. 
  • Amylase breaks down starches into smaller carbohydrate molecules.
  • Lipase helps digest fats in the diet. 
  • Cellulase breaks down fiber from plants and grains. Your dog doesn’t naturally have this enzyme in his body. (I’ll talk more about this on this later.)

Digestive enzymes mainly come from your dog’s pancreas. As food travels through your dog’s small intestine, the pancreas releases digestive enzymes. That’s when they break down the various food components so your dog’s body can absorb them. 

So … if your dog’s body makes all these digestive enzymes, why would he need supplements? 

Why Your Dog Needs Digestive Enzymes

Well … there are some health issues that need support from extra digestive enzymes. And we’ll get to those in a bit. 

But even your healthy dog could have a digestive enzyme deficiency. 

Enzyme Deficiency
Dr Edward Howell pioneered digestive enzyme research in the early 20th century. He observed that the body becomes enzyme deficient over time … and that happens because we cook our food.

He found that the lack of enzymes from cooked food causes shortened life span in people and animals, due to …

  • Lowered resistance to stress and disease
  • Enlarged pancreas – strained by having to produce more enzymes
  • Reduced size of other organs like the brain

He summarized his findings very eloquently with his famous Enzyme Nutrition Axiom: 

“The length of life is inversely proportional to the rate of exhaustion of the enzyme potential of an organism. The increased use of food enzymes promotes a decreased rate of exhaustion of the enzyme potential.”

What he meant, in plainer English, was that we use up the enzymes our bodies make. So eventually we deplete our enzyme resources, which shortens our lives. But using food enzymes slows this process.  

And it’s true for your dog too. 

One reason for an enzyme deficiency is your dog’s diet. In theory your dog’s body produces enough enzymes to digest all the food groups … carbohydrates, protein and fat. But because of modern diets, that’s not always the case. 

What Holistic Vets Say 
Most dogs eat cooked diets … whether kibble, canned or even home-made. 

Veterinarian Dr PJ Broadfoot said in a 2018 paper: 

“Supplemental enzymes are needed to replace those destroyed by cooking and processing food. Processing and cooking at any heat of approximately 118°F to 129°F (48°C to 54°C), for as few as three minutes, can destroy virtually all enzymes, which results in very little pre-digestion taking place in the stomach. Thus, what’s left of the food mass enters the small intestine largely undigested. This puts the pancreas and other organs of the endocrine system under tremendous stress, since they have to draw reserves from the entire body in order to produce massive amounts of the proper enzymes.”

Jean Hofve DVM agrees. In a 2013 paper about Digestive Enzymes she made the case for routine digestive enzyme supplementation for all pets.  

“Digestive enzymes can be used for pancreatic and GI issues, but are also beneficial for healthy patients eating heat-processed pet foods.”

Dr Hofve goes on to say: 

“… recent research shows that in humans with gastrointestinal disease, but more importantly, even in normal individuals, supplementation with digestive enzymes substantially increased digestion in the lumen of the small intestine, and improved the bioavailability of proteins and carbohydrates. Especially in view of the highly processed diet that most of our pets are eating, this implies that most healthy adult dogs and cats can benefit from a digestive enzyme supplement. Digestive enzymes help pets digest and assimilate food better–any food.”

So, raw feeders, don’t stop reading! Dr Hofve said “any food!” This is important for your dog too. Even raw fed dogs often need extra enzymes. 

The way you feed and raise your dog creates some situations where digestive enzymes can really help your dog. 

Factors In Enzyme Deficiency

  • If your dog eats food with starchy ingredients (like kibble and even some canned, freeze dried or dehydrated foods) … he may not produce enough enzymes to break it down. Amylase helps digest starches. But dogs don’t naturally make much amylase, because in the wild, they wouldn’t eat starchy foods. 
  • Processed foods are “dead” foods.  The high temperatures and pressures used to make kibble destroy any live enzymes that were in the raw ingredients. Natural enzymes are destroyed at temperatures above 118oF. And some kibbles are heated to 180o Celsius. That’s 356oF – more than 3 times the temperature that kills enzymes!
  • Canned food cooking temperatures are also high enough to destroy enzymes. And canned food is truly “dead” because it’s completely sterile.
  • If you’re a raw feeder, you know that raw is the best food for your dog. And that raw food contains live enzymes. In the wild, dogs would also get some extra enzymes from the guts of their prey. But most of us don’t feed guts to our domestic dogs. So your dog’s  body has to work harder to produce enzymes.
  • Vaccines, pharmaceutical drugs, dead foods and fluoridated water can all lower your dog’s ability to make its own enzymes. And over time, this can cause an enzyme deficiency. 
  • And to make matters worse, as your dog ages his body produces fewer enzymes naturally. So the deficiency is compounded. Your dog’s body can’t keep up! This means all senior dogs are likely have an enzyme shortfall. 

Enzyme Deficiency Affects The Whole Body
So … even your healthy dog can deplete his own digestive enzyme sources. And that can affect other vital processes in his body, like …

  • Immune system
  • Waste and toxin elimination
  • Hormone regulation
  • Gallbladder function

You’ll notice the gallbladder in that list. It might seem like an small, insignificant organ. But it’s important in digestion … because it produces bile to help digest fat. If the gallbladder isn’t working efficiently, your dog won’t have enough bile in his digestive system to break down fats. 

So how can you tell your dog needs more digestive enzymes? 

Symptoms Of Digestive Enzyme Deficiency
Watch for these signs your dog may need some digestive enzyme support:

  • Burping and farting 
  • Regurgitating undigested food
  • Diarrhea
  • Constipation
  • Bloating
  • Smelly breath 
  • Acid reflux 
  • Tummy rumbling or gurgling
  • Abdominal pain or cramping
  • Foul-smelling stools 
  • Undigested food in stool

If you recognize your dog in these symptoms, digestive enzymes could make a big difference! 

Besides just using up his own enzyme supply … your dog might have a specific health issue that these supplements can help with. 

Digestive Enzymes For Health Issues

Here are some chronic health issues that need extra digestive enzyme support. 

EPI (Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency)
EPI is a serious condition that stops your dog’s pancreas from producing digestive enzymes. In severe cases it can lead to starvation, because your dog can’t absorb nutrients. 

Signs of EPI include ravenous hunger, weight loss, or chronic diarrhea. …

Your vet can diagnose EPI using a test called TLI – trypsin-like immunoreactivity test.

Dogs with EPI often develop small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO). This is because with EPI there’s undigested food passing through the intestine. This feeds bacteria in the small intestine, allowing them to grow there (instead of the colon, where they usually live). 

Managing EPI and SIBO
Even conventional vets will prescribe pancreatic enzymes and recommend you feed raw pancreas for EPI. So a digestive enzyme supplement that includes pancreas can help the condition. Pancreatic enzymes are best given with food … and they should be moistened and sit at room temperature for 20 to 60 minutes before feeding. 

Feeding raw pancreas also helps with EPI. 1-3 oz of raw pancreas can replace 1 tsp of enzyme powder. Never cook it as heat will destroy the enzymes.

Digestive enzymes can also relieve SIBO symptoms. By helping break down food, they often reduce problems like bloating, gas, constipation or diarrhea. And they’ll improve nutrient absorption. 

PRO TIP
If your dog has SIBO, give soil-based probiotics. This type of probiotic forms spores that will help the probiotics arrive intact at the large intestine and colon … so they won’t feed the bacteria in the small intestine like other probiotics.

RELATED: EPI and other digestive diseases in dogs …

Chronic Pancreatitis
Pancreatitis means “inflammation of the pancreas” and it can be a chronic condition.

Important Note: This means chronic pancreatitis. Acute pancreatitis needs emergency care by your vet. Your dog may need to be hospitalized for an acute pancreatitis attack. 

The signs of chronic pancreatitis include: 

  • Lethargy and lack of appetite
  • Occasional vomiting or diarrhea
  • Stomach pain (restlessness)

When pancreatitis is chronic, these symptoms may come and go. They may not be as severe as acute pancreatitis. But don’t ignore these recurring signs and let them get more serious. Chronic pancreatitis can progress into diabetes or EPI. So if you see these symptoms regularly, talk to your holistic vet. 

In the meantime, feed your dog a healthy diet and keep him lean. Give regular exercise … and don’t over-vaccinate! Vaccination is a big factor in inflammatory conditions. 

Among other supplements, your dog’s inflamed pancreas needs digestive enzymes. If the pancreas isn’t working properly, it’s not going to produce the digestive enzymes your dog needs. 

RELATED: Read more detail about pancreatitis in dogs …

Other Digestive And Malabsorption Issues
Digestive enzymes can also help with several other digestive and malabsorption issues. They’re a good addition to the diet of dogs with digestive issues like:

  • Leaky gut syndrome
  • Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
  • Acid reflux

RELATED: 5 steps to restore gut health … 

Chronic Health Issues
Dogs with food intolerances, allergies, frequent ear infections or skin problems should also benefit from digestive enzymes. Keep in mind these problems often stem from poor gut health … so building a healthy gut is the first step in resolving them. 

In fact, just about any chronic health issue can be an indication your dog isn’t getting all the nutrients he needs. For example, some research shows even liver problems can stem from nutrient deficiencies … and supplemental digestive enzymes can help. 

Think about the chain of events in your dog’s body. Lack of digestive enzymes leads to lack of nutrients. This creates poor gut health, which can cause systemic inflammation … and chronic disease.

The truth is, most chronic health problems will improve with better absorption of nutrients. And that means your dog needs digestive enzymes!

So … how do you go about choosing digestive enzymes for your dog?

How To Choose Digestive Enzymes For Dogs

First of all, don’t use a human digestive enzyme supplement. Your dog has very specific enzyme needs, so buy a product made for dogs. 

Here are some good ingredients in digestive enzyme supplements for your dog. 

Pancreas
There are two reasons to include pancreas in your dog’s digestive enzyme supplement.

First, the pancreas creates most of the digestive enzymes your dog needs. So … because those enzymes are in the pancreas … supplementing pancreas delivers important digestive enzymes like protease, amylase and lipase.

Second, pancreas can bolster the pancreas’s own ability to make digestive enzymes.

In Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine and other herbal medicine … there’s a principle of feeding the organ you want to strengthen. The pancreas is the organ that produces most digestive enzymes in your dog, so feeding pancreas supports and fortifies the pancreas.

Papain
Papain is the enzyme contained in papaya fruit.  It helps with digestion of proteins. In fact, papain is used as a meat tenderizer … so that tells you it can break down meat!  It can support your dog’s immune system as well. And papain is anti-parasitic, so can help your dog eliminate worms. Papain is used in medicine to treat pain and inflammation. 

Bromelain
Bromelain comes from pineapple stem, fruit and juice. It breaks down protein and is also known for its ability to reduce pain and swelling, especially in the nose, sinuses and gums. It can help heal burns and may help arthritis as well as muscle soreness. 

Betaine HCL
Betaine HCL is a natural form of hydrochloric acid. Hydrochloric acid is produced in the digestive tract, where it creates pepsin … an enzyme that breaks down protein. Betaine HCL boosts production of hydrochloric acid in the stomach. It can help digest proteins and stimulate intestinal enzymes. Research shows betaine boosts digestive enzymes as well as intestinal microbiota. 

Cellulase
Dogs don’t have natural cellulase. But many of them need it … especially if they eat kibble. Cellulase helps your dog break down fiber. Most kibbles contain fibrous fillers like cellulose (which is basically sawdust). So a digestive enzyme containing cellulase is a must to ease your dog’s digestion. It’ll also help your dog digest grains and other plant material in his food.

Cellulase can also help dogs with yeast. Microorganisms like bacteria and fungi create a protective layer called biofilm.  Biofilm can be a good thing. But it can also help yeast hide from yeast treatments … as well as your dog’s immune system. Yeast cell walls are made of cellulose. So cellulase can help break down the cellulose and remove the yeast’s defenses. 

Cellulase has another benefit: it helps control blood sugar levels.

Invertase
Invertase is an enzyme found in yeast and pollen. It’s important for digestive health. It separates sugar into glucose and fructose, which helps with digestion of starchy carbohydrates. This moves sugars out of the digestive tract before they can ferment and cause problems. Invertase also has antiseptic and antibacterial properties and can boost immunity too. It’s said to slow the aging process and even cause physical rejuvenation.  

(One strange bit of trivia is that invertase is used in the candy industry to make chocolates with fondant fillings!)  

Ox Bile
Remember earlier we said the gallbladder as an important part of your dog’s digestive system?

The liver produces bile, which is stored in the gallbladder. The gallbladder releases bile after a meal, to break down fats into fatty acids for digestion. Bile also helps with blood sugar metabolism and elimination of waste products in the body. 

But if the gallbladder doesn’t produce enough bile, giving ox bile can provide it. Ox bile also helps control bacteria overgrowth. So it can be very useful in managing SIBO in the small intestine. 

Some people call ox bile the ultimate digestive enzyme. It works like a detergent that dissolves fat to make it more digestible. 

DNM RECOMMENDS: Four Leaf Rover offers Digest, a natural supply of digestive enzymes with pancreas to support pancreas function. Organic broccoli sprout powder supports the liver and soil based probiotics help maintain a normal gut flora. Buy Digest now >>

How To Give Your Dog Digestive Enzymes

Again, always buy a digestive enzyme supplement made specifically for dogs. Follow the instructions on the label for correct dosing.

Digestive enzymes are best given with food. You can add a little water or broth if needed. 

And if your dog has EPI, it’s best to moisten any pancreatic enzymes you give. Let the moistened powder sit for 20-60 minutes before feeding. 

Remember that heat kills enzymes. So never add them to hot food. And don’t heat up food after adding enzymes. 

Your dog shouldn’t have any side effects … other than improved digestion!

But if he gets any gas or loose stools at first, just reduce the dose a little until his body adjusts to the new digestive support. 

You can also boost your dog’s natural digestive enzymes by feeding enzyme-rich foods.

Foods With Digestive Enzymes For Dogs

Try some of these enzyme-rich foods:

  • Fruits like bananas, mangos, papayas, pineapple, kiwi
  • Ginger
  • Honey
  • Apple cider vinegar
  • Fermented veggies

Summary Of Digestive Enzyme Benefits

Give digestive enzymes to dogs who … 

  • Eat kibble, canned or other cooked starchy foods
  • Get allergies, food sensitivities or skin issues
  • Have EPI, malabsorption or other digestive problems
  • Have any chronic health issues, including joint problems like arthritis
  • Are older
  • Drink fluoridated water (always try to give your dog spring or filtered water)

When your dog’s body absorbs nutrients better, he’ll benefit from better digestive health. And that means stronger immune function and disease resistance and less chronic health problems.… 

Always keep digestive enzymes in mind, no matter what health issue your dog has.

Leaky Gut In Dogs: Heal With Home Remedies

If your dog had joint disease, would you treat him the same as a dog with allergies? Or diabetes? The answer is often YES! And that’s because there’s a growing epidemic that’s the hidden cause of most chronic disease.

Researchers today are looking at how a condition called leaky gut in dogs is a major cause of disease and how it might be more common and more harmful than they ever imagined. Let’s take a look at how this human epidemic is also a canine one.

The Microbiome

When your dog eats a meal, it passes from his stomach to his small intestine and finally to his large intestine or colon. Collectively, this is called the gut. The walls of the small intestine are covered in finger-like projections called villi. Each of these villi is covered in even smaller fingers called microvilli. The villi and microvilli increase the surface area of the small intestine, which gives it more real estate for your dog’s food to be absorbed.

The microvilli are lined with only a single row of epithelial cells. That means the only thing between your dog and the contents of his small intestine is a fraction of the size of a pin head. This flimsy barrier allows nutrients to be easily absorbed … but it’s not much protection against foreign invaders.

Inside your dog’s small intestine and colon are trillions of bacteria of at least 1,000 different species. The gut contains other less numerous but regular inhabitants including viruses yeast and parasites. Collectively, they’re called the microbiome.

Most of the bacterial population are commensal bacteria … commensal in Latin roughly means to eat at the same table. And that’s a good way to look at them. Commensal bacteria eat the same foods your dog eats … especially fiber. This is one reason why fiber is an important part of your dog’s diet. Fiber from fruits, berries and vegetables feeds the commensal bacteria communities. In return, they produce enzymes to help digest his food, vitamins, amino acids and short chain fatty acids.

Commensal bacteria are considered beneficial for these reasons … and because they help protect against pathogenic bacteria by competing for food and the best places to live in the gut. So animals and bacteria mainly have a symbiotic relationship … as long as the bacteria stay in the gut.

Luckily, the commensal bacteria don’t actively cross the intestinal barrier. And this is important … because if they did, it would trigger the immune system. And that would cause chronic inflammation, which is the cause of nearly all chronic disease in the body.

RELATED: The dangers of chronic inflammation in dogs >>

Leaky Gut Syndrome In Dogs

Your dog’s immune cells work carefully with the commensal bacteria to make sure they don’t trigger inflammation in the gut. This is why nearly 90% of your dog’s immune system is in his gut … the immune cells protect the delicate border between the gut contents and his blood and organs.

But gut inflammation can happen … and when it does, the cells lining the gut become irritated. While they normally align themselves like a tight zipper, inflammation will open up the zipper-like junctions between the cells. This makes the gut lining more permeable … and the toxins, allergens, bacteria and yeast in the gut can leak to his blood.

This is called leaky gut.

When leaky gut is present, bacteria, allergens and yeast to escape the gut and leak into the blood. The result is an immune response that triggers chronic inflammation in the entire body.

The chronic inflammation caused by leaky gut is the driver of most chronic diseases. Dementia, autoimmune disease, heart disease, diabetes, arthritis, liver disease, cancer, inflammatory bowel diseases, allergies … they can all be caused by leaky gut.

In just the last decade, there have been thousands studies looking at leaky gut and the role it plays in common health issues.

Leaky Gut And Food Intolerance

Arguably the most common symptom of leaky gut looks a lot like allergies …

If your dog’s gut is permeable, proteins can leak out before they’re digested. And that’s a problem …

Your dog’s immune system recognizes foreign invaders by their proteins. So if a virus were to get into your dog, the immune system would attack it. It would then file away the information about the protein in memory cells. This memory makes sure the immune system can quickly recognize and destroy the same invader if it comes back.

So over time, your dog’s food can trigger the same immune response that bacteria and viruses would.

This is called food intolerance or hypersensitivity.

If the gut is healthy, proteins from your dog’s food can’t pass through the gut lining until they’re digested. When proteins are digested, they’re broken down into small units called amino acids. Your dog won’t suffer the same immune consequences because the proteins have first been dismantled into harmless parts.

So one of the biggest signs of leaky gut is food intolerance … but that’s not the only sign.

RELATED: The top dog food allergy symptoms >>

Signs Of Leaky Gut In Dogs

Because leaky gut triggers an immune response in the entire body, it can be hard to detect. But common symptoms include:

  • Autoimmune disease
  • Arthritis and joint pain
  • Allergies and skin issues
  • Digestive issues and bowel disease
  • Yeast infections
  • Liver, kidney, pancreas and gall bladder disorders
  • Behavior issues (aggression or anxiety)
  • Thyroid issues (and in turn, thyroid issues can worsen leaky gut)

The signs of leaky gut in dogs are varied because the chronic inflammation it causes can affect any (or multiple) organs. It’s truly an issue for the entire body.

It also shows that leaky gut is much more common than scientists first believed … and potentially more disastrous for your dog.

Now, since a large percentage of dogs have one or more of these health issues, let’s look at the causes of leaky gut. If one or more of these apply to your dog, then it’s a good bet there may be leaky gut present …

The Causes Of Leaky Gut In Dogs

There are two problems with diagnosing leaky gut …

First, there really isn’t a test for leaky gut syndrome in dogs.

If you choose to do a hypersensitivity test on your dog, it may come back with sensitivity to most proteins. If this happens, it’s a good bet your dog has leaky gut … his immune system is reacting to everything that leaks through.

But if your dog is only sensitive to one or more proteins, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not leaky gut.

The second issue is, leaky gut can cause many other diseases. Very often, your vet will treat the resulting disease … but as you’ll find out, this often only makes the leaky gut worse.

So the best way to determine if your dog has leaky gut is to look at the gut stressors he’s been exposed to. Here are the major stressors that can cause leaky gut:

  • Antibiotics (wiping out the gut bacteria can cause dysbiosis)
  • Drugs (including NSAIDs, steroids, antihistamines, heartworm, flea and tick meds)
  • Vaccines
  • Stress
  • Candida or yeast overgrowth
  • Age – as dogs age, the number and diversity of gut bacteria start to decline

There are also diet-related causes of leaky gut, including:

Glyphosate

Glyphosate is a herbicide that’s also antibiotic. Glyphosate has been found in nearly all dog foods that contain grains or legumes. The ingredients with the highest glyphosate content include non-organic oats, wheat, soy, potatoes and legumes (chickpeas, peas, lentils, beans and peanuts). Glyphosate is also found in most grains.

Lectins

Lectins are proteins in plants that act as a defense mechanism against predators. Lectins attack mucosal lining of gut and cause inflammation and leaky gut. Beans, peas, soybeans, lentils, and other legumes have the highest lectin content of any food group, as do members of the nightshade family (like peppers, potatoes and tomatoes). but lectin is also found in most grains with the exception of sorghum and millet.

Gluten

Many dogs are gluten sensitive. When gluten sensitive dogs eat foods with gluten, the small intestine, produces zonulin, a chemical that signals the tight junctions of the intestinal walls to open up, creating permeability

Many dogs are gluten sensitive. When gluten sensitive dogs eat foods with gluten, the small intestine, produces zonulin, a chemical that signals the tight junctions of the intestinal walls to open up, creating permeability (1).

Mycotoxins

Mycotoxins are cancer-causing molds that grow on grains, legumes and other starchy plants. Mycotoxins are found in many pet foods … in fact, Purina has called them an “unavoidable contaminant.” Mycotoxins have been shown to increase intestinal permeability in most species. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6468410/

Dairy

Most dogs don’t produce the enzyme lactase, which is needed to digest the lactose in dairy products. Whey and casein are proteins in milk that can also cause gut inflammation. In fact, casein and gluten share a similar molecular structure and half of people who are gluten intolerant are also casein intolerant. Goat and sheep milk have a different type of casein, which could make them easier for your dog to tolerate. But if your dog has lactose intolerance, goat and sheep milk are still high in lactose.

So if your dog is eating kibble or has a dairy sensitivity, then he could have leaky gut. And of course, most drugs, vaccines and stress can also contribute. So if your dog has any of the health issues above, and has been exposed to any of these stressors, it might be a good idea to treat the underlying cause .. leaky gut!

Home Remedies For Leaky Gut In Dogs

The first step is to avoid any food, drug or environmental stressors that cause gut inflammation. If you don’t eliminate the causes of leaky gut, your dog’s leaky gut will never resolve.

And neither will the help issues it creates.

So your first steps are:

  • Stop all drugs and antibiotics (it might be time to upgrade to a holistic or homeopathic vet).
  • Start feeding a raw diet or, at the very least, a canned or kibble diet with the smallest amount of carbohydrate. Glyphosate, mycotoxins, lectins and gluten found only in grains and legumes.
  • Avoid dairy (yoghurt and kefir from goat or sheep milk is free of starch and inflammatory casein).
  • Relieve stress in your dog (such as boredom).

Next, you’ll want to actively add supplements and foods that can help repair the gut lining and reduce gut inflammation:

L-Glutamine

L-Glutamine is a non-essential amino acid. It’s an important part of solving leaky gut because it’s the preferred food of the cells lining the gut wall … so it helps with their growth and repair. L-Glutamine also supports the mucosal lining in the gut and can help maintain the right pH balance.

L-Glutamine is so important to gut health that low concentrations are linked to gut permeability and inflammation (2)

As a non-essential amino acid, L-Glutamine can be manufactured by the body … but glutamine is sometimes used more quickly than it’s manufactured. Glutamine deficiency can result from drugs, pancreatitis, bowel issues, stress, surgery, infections or injury. These can all cause the muscles to release glutamine into the bloodstream and this is what causes depletion.

L-glutamine is found naturally in animal proteins, spirulina, broccoli and asparagus … but when leaky gut is present, it should be supplemented to make sure your dog gets enough.

Dose: 500 mg per 25 pounds of body weight daily.

N-Acetyl Glucosamine

N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) is a form of glucosamine that comes from shellfish. NAG builds health connective tissue like other forms of glucosamine. But NAG has a special affinity for the gut lining where it promotes growth and healing. NAG can also bind to lectins and prevent them from binding to the gut lining.

Dose: 250 to 1,000 mg daily, depending on your dog’s size, age and health.

You can also get NAG from bone broth … but because glyphosate and heavy metals are stored in bone, make sure the source is as clean as possible.

Licorice Root

Licorice root is an anti-inflammatory herb that can help with IBS, diarrhea, constipation and acid reflux. It can also inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria such as H. pylori.

Most importantly, licorice root can protect the mucous lining and blood flow to the gut and nourish the intestinal cells.

The downside of licorice root is one of its triterpenoids: glycyrrhizin. Glycyrrhizin can be hard on the liver and kidneys, so look for a deglycyrrhized licorice – or DGL.

Dose: 12 to 20 drops per 20 pounds of body weight, twice daily.

Aloe Vera Juice

Aloe Vera has been used medicinally for over 5,000 years. Aloe Vera juice comes from the inner fillet of the leaf, not the harmful latex or outer leaf. So Aloe Vera juice is safe to take internally.

Aloe Vera contains aloe polysaccharides. These active components promote tissue and cell regeneration and are anti-inflammatory. Aloe can also form a thin coating in the lining of the GI tract that can remain for up to 48 hours. This can give your dog fast relief.

Dose: 25 to 50 drops per 25 pounds of weight, twice daily.

Other Anti-Inflammatory Herbs

You can also give your dog other anti-inflammatory herbs that target the gut and mucous membrane. Try:

  • Slippery elm
  • Marshmallow root
  • Chamomile
  • Ginger root
  • Quercetin
  • Curcumin

Probiotics

Probiotics for dogs are also an important addition for leaky gut. While they don’t do a great job of colonizing the gut for more than a day or two, they still have tremendous benefits. They help your dog digest food, which is important when there’s leaky gut present. This means less irritation from undigested food and more nutrients are released.

Probiotics also help tighten the junctions between the cells of the gut lining. They also create anti-inflammatory compounds and help build a healthy mucous membrane. Research also shows that probiotics can reduce the markers of leaky gut.

DNM Recommends: If you suspect your dog has leaky gut, Four Leaf Rover’s Gut Guard is a veterinary-formulated blend of soil-based probiotics, L-Glutamine, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, DGL Licorice Root and gut soothing herbs. Buy Gut Guard now >>

In just a ten year period, the incidence of diabetes in dogs has increased by a whopping 80%. In the same time span, the incidence of osteoarthritis has increased by 66% … and the percentage of overweight dogs has increased by an astonishing 158%. Leaky gut and the inflammation it can cause is clearly an epidemic.

Luckily, it’s one that’s preventable … and ultimately treatable with the right choices.

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